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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/10/16 in Posts

  1. 4 points
    Apologies for uploading a lot of 'old' data, no time at the time to go through all of it & have only just done so. Some ok some not so great but thought I would share them as our star is pretty quite at the moment with surface action. Thanks for looking. 399.tif
  2. 3 points
    In my fiies I get an image assembled and then call the first step P1 (Processing 1.) This goes on till I get to about P23 at which point, out of ideas, I call it Final. A month later this will be Final 27 version 8C colour balance provisional . You have it all to come... lly
  3. 3 points
    Glad it's still going strong and thanks for the compliments. Nigel
  4. 3 points
    Just connected up the RPi 3 with the Ubuntu Mate OS and yes, the WiFi is set up and working Ubuntu Mate looks rather easier (or familiar) than Raspbian. Now seeing what I have installed.
  5. 2 points
    Hi Guys, I've seen some fantastic images posted on here this year which never fail to inspire me to get out and try to capture some images myself. I haven't had too much time or luck with the weather to get out this year and obviously summer limits options, as many have said Saturn and Mars opportunities are sadly becoming quite limited. Still I thought I'd share my efforts, which whilst not a patch on what I've seen posted is still a big step forward from my captures last year. I'd appreciate any comments or advice that people can offer. These were captured using a Skywatcher 150P + EQ2, ASI120MC, videos centred and cropped in PIPP before stacking in Registax-v6.
  6. 2 points
    I have ordered an Rpi3 and micro sd card to have a go myself
  7. 2 points
    I've reprocessed the stacked image using a masked stretch, followed by a light stretch with histogram transfer then HDRMultiscale transform a bit more aggressively on the core. then combined it with the original image using pixelmath. This was a bit of trial & error as I didn't really know what I was doing but it seems to have worked. The core is much better and the overall image is a bit softer.
  8. 2 points
    ... and if they're not, there's a few of us who don't want to know that either!
  9. 2 points
    During processing I'd watch your black point very carefully. If you bring it in too far you 'black clip' the faint data which, in your case, would be the faint outlying stars. Healthy, with lots of flat line left of the histogram peak and all faint data preserved: Black clipped with faint signal lost and a jet black flat sky (exaggerated for effect) with no flat line left of the histo peak: Olly
  10. 2 points
    Very nice Star Adventurer image, I think we need a Star Adventurer gallery I see iOptron are doing something similar now with a wedge. Dave
  11. 2 points
    Hi Piero, I was using a 6mm Ethos giving approx 330x. Seeing was decent, Uranus was at nearly 30° altitude. I drove 10mins to the south coast here in East Cork, so that I wouldn't be looking through a dome of light pollution to the south and east. It was my first time seeing Uranus in my 15" - I saw it only once before in my 10", when seeing was poor - a blurry pale cyan fuzzy star. Last night though, Uranus was definitely and clearly a disk - although featureless. I've set the limiting magnitude for stars to 19.7 on Sky Safari to try to make sure I'm not mistaking background stars for moons. I remain sceptical about seeing Miranda ... although when I looked at positions at the time I started observing, it does apparently match what I saw. Miranda was not something I could hold in averted vision: I kept seeing something, then I checked on the app and it does appear to match the position - I hadn't looked at the app beforehand to try to avoid 'averted imagination' What puzzles me is that I couldn't initially see Umbriel. When I was looking ~2hrs later, I now think I may have been seeing Umbriel, Ariel and Oberon almost in a line. Neptune was a teeny disk, about half the size of Uranus to my eye, and Triton was a pin prick of a dot, held in averted vision. I used an 10mm Ethos (200x) to pan a little and note the relative position and angle of Triton/Neptune and the star HD215597 (going by Sky Safari). Hopefully will get a chance to try again - weather forecast not great though. It's great fun to try to discern these little moons that are something like 3 and 4.5 billion km away .The blue snowball and the cats eye nebs were also just great too last night - teasingly revealing structure Just nice to get out on a peaceful night under the milky way with the curlews calling and the waves lapping on the beach in the dark. Freezing though!!! -Niall
  12. 2 points
    I think you've made a good choice. I prefer not to use a barlow, but that's just my preference, others love them, or a powermate, but they tend to say to buy a decent one and don't compromise. if you do get another eyepiece next, consider how it would Barlow, so don't get a 14mm and a 2x barlow, as it would be the same as your 7. hope you get some clear skies to try it out
  13. 2 points
    Shh... don't let on or everyone will want one ;-) (Happy EQ3-2 user)
  14. 1 point
    Of some interest to fans of bright nebulae, http://www.webbdeepsky.com/publications/free/ Nick.
  15. 1 point
    This is my updated image of M33. I now have 10 1/2 hours of L data, mostly 600s exposures but with around 3 hrs of 300s as well. I haven't added any colour since the last image but will update that later although I'm not really sure it's needed? I made it brighter following advice on here (great as always). Hope you like it, and please, advice/criticsim is always welcomed. I've put the link to Astrobin as well. http://astrob.in/266414/0/
  16. 1 point
    I didn't mean to offend him. It''s just that when he said it's one he made, without giving any more info, it gave the impression (to me at least) that it was home made. Although looking at it, nothing could be further than the truth and is better made than all the skywatchers I own.
  17. 1 point
    One of my top objects M45, Those lovely Blue stars embedded in that nebulosity makes a splendid Image, I never tire of seeing picture of those lovely ladies. The ED80's are such fine telescopes. I think you must have had your Focal reducer in their Dave, is that correct ?
  18. 1 point
    On the advice of many helpful forum members i have started imaging clusters as these are much more forgiving with an unmoddified DSLR. Below (had to go for the best one first) is 2hr 27min on M13 using 60sec subs as guiding was not working. CC very welcome as usual. Thanks.
  19. 1 point
    very nice indeed Dave, will be giving this a go soon
  20. 1 point
    Very Nice, Charl! For what it's worth, I am quite happy to stick with a (rather similar) unmodded Canon 100D - I reckon response is ~1/3 in the region H-Alpha... But that's only just over one magnitude... Repeat until it sounds convincing? The Pleiades are BLUE anyway!
  21. 1 point
    weather today was very good sunny with passing clouds very pleasant in the sun but could fill the chill in the air in the shade. put the legs on the decking got brother to stand on one end so that i could put wedges at other end to give the desired 1:80 slope to help with water run off, that took most of the day. Once that was finished i laid out the deck boards and ally u channel to see how it all fitted together, And to get my spacing between the deck boards. Glad to say i have no bounce in the deck at all only from the lose boards at the moment , and enough deck boards to go round the outside twice. A had some time to spare but not much so I laid out the under carriage for the shed, but I have made a error and two the support beams is too long by 100 mm, i.e. I forgot about the cross beam I am going to change it a bit to include the beam to fix the castors to. So on to the pictures for today in the last one i was losing the light fast . I need some help to make a decision leave the pier white or spray it matt black?
  22. 1 point
    Excellent result... love seeing great results from fellow DSLR astro imager.
  23. 1 point
    Welcome to the mosaic club (aka league of nutters)
  24. 1 point
    Confidence is always a good Ally.
  25. 1 point
    The Purple Proms look pretty cool Dave, well done mate.
  26. 1 point
    Very nice David, needed some Ca-K images, seeing was a bit better here today but given how bad it's been lately that's not saying much Dave
  27. 1 point
    I have noticed that between the Prom and Filament below there is a small stitching error. A bit disappointing, but always improvements to be made.
  28. 1 point
    Cracking mosaic Pete, very sharp indeed.
  29. 1 point
    Thanks guys, I've reprocessed and fixed some of the issues, but I think it maybe a bit harsh still. Oh well, always learning.
  30. 1 point
    The main advantage of using a Barlow or amplifier is that you can decrease the focal length of the eyepiece yet maintain its field stop size and field of view to make observing more comfortable. Not all eyepieces 'Barlow' well however. Like most things in amateur astronomy the efficacy of the Barlow in use is often directly proportional to the amount you're prepared to spend on it. This isn't necessarily a hard and fast rule though. The first three achromatic Celestron 2x Barlows in the top row here are comparatively inexpensive and can produce good results without overly degrading the image. Although I've customised the Omni and standard Celestron kit Barlows so that they now have detachable Barlow elements like the Celestron T-Adaptor/Barlow combination. The apochromatic X-Cel Barlows and TeleVue Barlow/amplifiers on the bottom row are more expensive and I acquired this diverse collection for slightly different tasks. TeleVue don't believe in 'shorty' types of Barlow but these short Barlows often work better for me in diagonals. The short TS Optics (GSO) 2.5x Barlow at the end of the top row is sold under a variety of brand names (and prices) but is a very competent Barlow for what it cost. If I had to recommend one good all round Barlow that was cost effective. it would be that. Revelation 2.5x
  31. 1 point
    There are no non-Windows alternative to FireCapture - in terms of usability, features and UI (there are other recording apps, but they always lack something). There are no non-Windows alternative to Nebulosity in terms of ease of capture and full processing capabilities (there are some DS imaging apps but still they lack something or the whole processing side). Only PHD has a Linux native version. And distributing any task among multiple computers isn't an easy task to do to be efficient. And the software must be written for it in mind. So no, I don't see a point in enforcing people to using a ARM single board computer running ARM based Linux that wasn't even meant to be used as a consumer device by non-techology and non-linux aware users.
  32. 1 point
    Thank you all! It is dusk and the sky is clear so I have to get the gear in order.......
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    Hi,I have an AVX as well - it is not so much of a problem; that's my grab and go. I've cut sections from the mount packaging to dit things like power supply, the 1.25 CCDs etc. Tripd juts go in the back of the car easily. The CGEM-DX mount is quite bit bigger I've had to take the feet of the legs of the CGEM-DX mount to get it in the boot. With the 200P-DS theres space for the mount - if it's not in one piece. As i said, i saw something where someone noted that the CGEM-DX mount split neatly to two parts - I just don't know where it would be safe to undo bolts to find out. Would be nasty if I got the wrong bolts and all the spring sea gears fell out I've already removed the losmandy plate to reduce the volume.
  35. 1 point
    I just had a look at mine, but without taking them apart, it's difficult to say how easy it would be to replace the broken screw. I would say, though, that given the low price of these binos, it probably wouldn't be worth returning them for repair, but you might be able to purchace a new part and fix it yourself. I checked out a youtube video on collimating these, and the screws are under the rubber on the right hand side hand grip - one on the rear edge and the other on the left edge towards the front. Just try to peel the rubber back a little and not just hack it off like the one in the video Andy
  36. 1 point
    great shots Dave, lovely prom action mate .well done. thanks charl.
  37. 1 point
    Saying it's well made is a massive understatement too. I'm really impressed by your skill and take my hat off to you.
  38. 1 point
    Thanks Knighty good to know i made a good choice, I currently have a 10mm & 25mm as standard, there ok and do the job, Lets hope for clear skies over Yorkshire tonight :-)
  39. 1 point
    Depending on what your two stock EP sizes were (most tend to be 20mm & 10mm), with a 2x Barlow you would have only achieve an extra magnification with the 10mm become in effect a 5mm EP, as the 20mm would show what you see currently with the 10mm EP on its own. A 7mm X-Cel is pretty close to the 5mm, and will be much better quality than the 2 stock EPs, so a good choice to start off with a better EP. You can always add a decent Barlow later on.
  40. 1 point
    Or, alternatively, buy an extender cable from people who understand timing / buffering? I know it goes against the prevailing opinion here, but it works well for me! Driving EQMod (remote focusing etc.) over 30m Cat5. ttp://www.icron.com/products/oem/usb-extenders/cat5/usb-1-1-rv-1850/Cat 5 Cable. I do concede that 10m is not perhaps making best use of the above. There are other methods! A no-moving parts PC might be mine, if I needed USB 2.0+ for imaging. (Costs of long-distance "extending" increase significantly with enhanced speeds) P.S. I ALSO hate USB connectors. I buy short extension cables as "port savers" and try never to connect / disconnect the end connectors... Still make me nervous tho.
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    i built the Orrery model, found that to be good quality overall. Got some duplicate issues because of an issue and swapped out some pieces that improved the running of the model - so not completely precision made, though with anything mass produced they'll be running to tolerances. I cancelled the Earth-moon subscription, one such model is enough for me. I received the first few issues and was also disappointed with the quality of the Earth, is like a painted ping pong ball
  43. 1 point
    Thanks for the guidance. I actually used the adaptive stretch which I'm now getting fairly used to. I might be mistaken but when I use this it doesn't seem to give much room to further stretch it without blowing out the image. I'll have a go at the masked stretch and compare. I'll also try a combination of two stretches of the same stack, I've done a similar thing on some landscape images to bring out the sky but hadn't considered it with Astro. I used the subframe selector script to analyse the lights and tried to stack them according to the assessed weights. However I kept getting an error message to the effect that imageintegration couldnt find the fits keyword that was embedded in the subs. I couldn't work this out because when I opened the properties of the individual subs the keyword was clearly there. I wonder whether it was because I was working with xisf files and not fits. I'll have to ask on their forum. I ended up stacking according to the weight of the noise, I don't suppose it made much difference but I'd like to get to the bottom of it. Anyway, it's all an interesting learning curve edit, I think I might have found the problem, just read a post on the pi forum about negative weights, i need to check but I think some of my weights were negative.
  44. 1 point
    And it gets easier with practice!! Regarding how well the stars line-up within the template, I think it depends on how accurately you have double-clicked on (the centre of) Polaris - the program knows how far from Polaris each of the stars are and the relative angles and so the template is rotating around Polaris, or, to be more precise, exactly where you have said (the centre of) Polaris is. I think the tool is a little coarse (or maybe it's just my laptop's mouse that is a little coarse) for this exercise. The cross being white in the enlargement circle, so it gets completely obscured by Polaris as you are doing this, does not help. Maybe adding an extra step to click on a couple of other stars once the template is 'aligned' so the program could make a better approximation would make it slightly more accurate, but I doubt it would be worth it - an approximation will do.
  45. 1 point
    Hi friends,i posted my shot to last night. wo 80/500 sd II canon 550d no mod eq5 syscan 45x60" iso 1600 7dark 4 bias unguided.
  46. 1 point
    What a great report and ensuing thread. It really brings home how the beauty of our skies can be enhanced by a dark site - and completing the M&Ms is a bonus! There is no doubt that the single best piece of 'equipment' for improving observing is (almost ) free: a dark sky site. Many members of the forum repeatedly advocate this - Steve (Swampthing) especially, and i believe them. I've not been able to do any observing lately but have been avidly reading the forum and am making plans for the winter season. My back garden is not bad but my wife's cousin lives on a farm not far away, but far enough to get away from any suburban LP. The plan is to take the Dob over there and store it in a barn ready to go when clouds permit. Here's hoping....
  47. 1 point
    Another beautiful warm day here at Pencelli. All the pitches just freshly cut and looking good. I'm all set up for hopefully another clear night tonight.
  48. 1 point
    Tonight, Ive tested the supposition I mentioned earlier in the thread regarding the binning of OIII - looks like it works to me! (no flats OIII flats taken yet though... just a quick n' dirty process)
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    If full automation is beyond you, Gina, then I may as well give up on that aspiration right now!!!!
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