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Showing content with the highest reputation on 18/04/14 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    I had the privilege to witness an awesome solar flare today. It began just before 2pm and lasted for quite a few minutes. When at its peak it reached 'M' 7.2 on the GOES X-ray data graph. It was fantastic to see on my computer screen while I captured it. I have never witnessed a flare get so bright so quickly before. It was awesome to watch. Here are 3 images taken during the event. I captured 1000 frame avi's and stacked the best 10% in AS!2. False colour and tweaking in Photoshop CS5. I used a Lunt60t DS with a X1.6 barlow.
  2. 1 point
    I think I've probably hijacked Tom's (earth titan) thread enough. So I thought I'd post some piccies, along with my trials and tribulations of owning this scope. For the moment, lets do the pictures: The bearings. Two Teflon pads support the alt bearing, with three larger versions of the same for the az bearing. On both axis, these bear against aluminium that has been heavily textured with a rounded and random pattern - Like kitchen worktop on steroids. In the case of the alt pads, they project inward by 3-4mm to prevent the mirror box grinding against the rocker box. Only time will tell if this is satisfactory. The mirror box has garnered much attention, not least because of the ability to collimate from the front, something only possible in a Newt with an open structure. In reality, it's pretty much a bog standard nine point mirror cell, but the collimation bolts sit toward the outside of the cell support sub-frame and the bolts have been turned through 180deg. Collimation is so easy after almost any other scope, it's not funny, although that doesn't mean I haven't had other collimation issues. More on this later. There has also been much talk of the mirror restraint, which is just a couple of plastic rollers bearing against the bottome edge and a bit of padded felt at the top to stop it banging against the mirror box. Three webbing straps are glued to the periphery of the mirror and screwed to the supporting frame to restrain the mirror, should the mirror box be inverted and the mirror fall out. More on both the rollers and straps at a later date. The R&P focuser seems to have lost it's initial slight notchiness and is lovely and smooth and could probably support as much weight as you want. However, with no vertical adjustment of the secondary mirror available, the only way I was able to center the secondary under the focuser was to use a couple of 0.5mm thick washers to tilt the focuser slightly. Secondary cage. Confirmed - It is a cage and it has a secondary. Out on the lawn and ready for use this eveing. Note the temporary structure to gain a crucial few inches of height, in order to compensate for the ridiculous focuser position. Even with an additional 6-7"of masonry in the equation, the EP is still 2-3" below my eye-line when standing. Below the ecliptic, it's too low for my ironing stool, so my next job is to rotate the cage 45deg to where it should be. Russell
  3. 1 point
  4. 1 point
    This is my kind of imaging, seeing it being done and building up, or, you could say, I sit here at my laptop with a glass of amber nectar and watch an expert doing all the hard work !LOL! Nice one Gina, glad the sky held up for you
  5. 1 point
  6. 1 point
    I think perhaps your secondary needs rotating very slightly. If you block out the primary with a piece of card and look through the cheshire, the cross hairs should be in the middle of the secondary and it should look like a perfect circle.
  7. 1 point
    I've not tried M109 yet, but am having a go at M81 and M82. Managed to get about 15 - 20 subs of 120 secs last night, but need more to get some more of the spiral arms. You can't really have too many!
  8. 1 point
    How you dress when the Moon is full is no concern of ours, I'm sure James
  9. 1 point
    The primary mirror is not collimatable (glued to the rear assembly), but there is a way to align the primary and secondary mirrors. Unscrew the rear assembly holding the primary mirror, center spot the primary (dot the center with a marker, then put a notebook reinforcement ring around the dot), then rescrew the rear assembly back onto the OTA. Then looking through a collimation cap attached to the focuser, fiddle with the three Allen-head screws on the secondary holder which adjusts the tilt of the secondary mirror (the secondary is collimatable), until you get the secondary aligned with the primary. My scope was miscollimated before I performed this operation. Once done, the scope became a good planetary and double star performer for a fast F/4 instrument. But with it's generous 100mm aperture for such a lightweight and compact scope, this makes a good deep-sky grab-and-go. All the Messier objects are easily visible if you take this scope away from the city and into suburban (orange zone) or rural (green-blue zone) skies.
  10. 1 point
    We have been planning to make some short videos and thought this new telescope would be perfect for our first attempt. Please be gentle, nobody at FLO has any video production experience and it is literally our very first video. A big thank-you to Grant (our IT Wizard) for being brave enough to have a go Steve
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