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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/07/13 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    I have ummed and ahhed about posting this image. It's in a place where I am reasonably happy with it, but it's taken me so many hours to get to this stage in processing time alone. This has been in the capture process for over two weeks and it has taken over my life in the last day or two! Sh2-129 is often called the Flying Bat nebula. From my reading everyone says that this is a massive nebula and very faint as well. These two adjectives really should have put me off!!! Close to IC1396 it often gets overlooked, which I think is a shame as it's a really interesting image. This is a 3x2 mosaic, totalling 82 subs in total. It was very difficult to stitch together and the faint stuff was a killer to keep. It was all too easy to lose it in gradient removal mayhem. Also there's very few images of the complete nebula on the net, so little to compare it with. But I'm happy that what I have got now is supposed to be there!!! Details: M: HEQ5 T: Takahashi FSQ85 0.73x C: Atik 460EX mono with 3nm Astrodon Ha filter 82x1800s subs in total and almost as many hours in processing time! I welcome your comments regarding anything you see and think could be improved
  2. 3 points
    Finally this is finished, 7 frames in 7 nights. Here is a link to the full size version (11Mb) http://astrosnaps.co...art&Soul-01.jpg I have spent most of today trying to stitch this together without the joins showing. Using Martin's method of throwing the unstretched frames into Microsoft ICE didn't work for me - it stitched fine but there were loads of artifacts. This is mainly I think due to the very different conditions during the last week. My final method was to stretch each panel by a moderate amount and adjusted the backgound level to a B=15 on each frame and also have the nebulae bits in the frame of similar brightness. No, I am not going to do the whole thing in OIII and SII but would like to do that for the individual Nebulae. Tech details: Megrez 72 refractor with 0.8x FR, Atik 460EX mono, 6nm Baader Ha filter, Each frame between 2 and 4 hours in 10 min subs, 7 frames. Dave
  3. 3 points
    I often write poems for my wife in her cards etc for birthdays and what have you and on the way to work, while sat in the traffic I thought about a short astronomy-related poem. It's not particularly impressive but thought I'd start this thread to see if anyone else does this sort of thing. Binary binary, in all of your finery, Dazzling with colour; some different, some same. Binary binary, shimmering shinery, How fusion fans both your flames. Binary binary, yes! a fine split I see, Though why can’t I recall your name!? Binary binary, not always two or three, Memories that always remain.
  4. 3 points
    The need to buy is strong in this one Obi one
  5. 2 points
    Great to see the images roll in during this fine weather! I've been sticking to one target and collecting data on NGC 7635, the Bubble Nebula. I now have some Ha, OIII, and SII data so here is a narrowband rendition in the Hubble Palette. As soon as I started to process this, I realized that I need longer subs for the OIII so I think I will capture some 15 minute subs for that and see what happens. I've had real trouble getting the background colour to look right and I'm still not happy with it - it looks too reddy-brown but I'm having trouble fixing it... Scope: 11" EdgeHD @f/7 w/ Celestron 0.7 reducer Camera: Atik 490 ex, binned 2x2, 2" Baader filters Mount: CGEM DX Guiding: Atik OAG, QHY IMG0H, PHD ~ 0.6 rms Ha = 23 x 600s, O[iII] = 21 x 600s, S[iI] = 10 x 900s As always, suggestions for improvement very welcome! Thanks for looking, Ian
  6. 2 points
    I'd promised myself another crack at Saturn when we were on holiday, being six degrees or so further south. I find myself disappointed with this image however whilst at the same time feeling that I shouldn't be. The near complete lack of colour is not great, yet I'm quite happy to have captured so much detail so late in the apparition. The image still seems too noisy, too, despite stacking a couple of thousand frames. I can blame the temperature for that. I got my 120MM up to 50C yesterday whilst solar imaging Regardless I think it's going to be my last effort for this apparition. 4800 frames, ASI120MC & 127 Mak, preprocessed with PIPP and 50% stacked in AS!2 with wavelets in Registax v6. James
  7. 2 points
    Solar Plane 09jul13 by Wyld-Katt, on Flickr Would normally said "nuff said" - but I have video too
  8. 2 points
    So I was out in the garden at the weekend, enjoying the blissful sunshine. I got my 150p out and did some white light solar while the wife sat nearby reading 'What Now Woman Heat' or some other garbage. I thought she might like to come and look at the thing which was providing her tan so I beckoned her over. I sat her down and told her to look into the eyepiece and turn the focuser until it came into focus which she duly did. She then said "Wow, so thats the sun? What are those little spots on it, they look like ants!" at which point she leant back, looked at me and jabbed her finger right onto the eyepiece glass by way of indicating to me that is was the view in the eyepiece to which she was referring. Naturally you can imagine the look on my face. I swatted her hand away and said "what on earth are you doing, did you just touch that' at which point she went for the bottom of her top with the clear intention to rub off whatever finger print (think sun cream..) she had left on it. Naturally another swatting of said hand with shirt edge ensued. Naturally she had no idea what she had done beforehand and she now understands that anything on a telescope should not be touched unless asked first. Lesson learnt. thankfully I had the foresight to use the supplied 10mmPlossl (because I also had sun cream on earlier in the day but had washed my hands before using the scope) and not my UWAs otherwise Imight've been digging a hole at the bottom of the garden and putting in a new patio!
  9. 2 points
    Being a bit of a drama queen aren't we ... only takes a drop of Wonderfluid and a microfibre cloth to clean it afterall . . .
  10. 2 points
    Could get the 80ED DS pro and a drive motor for the eq5 and you would have the start of an imaging setup. Not sure how stable that would be but for short exposures it could work?
  11. 2 points
    I would just like to express my pleasure with the service from Atik cameras, who now have a UK based factory. Vince was very helpful, and the rates for a service and clean are very reasonable (30 euros + P&P). The camera was ready to return in a matter of days, with the payment method being via bank transfer. So, if you have a grubby Atik camera, or you've had it for a few years and would like to get it checked over by a professional. Then I can highly recommend the service that Atik offer. 10/10
  12. 2 points
    I have had the same problem with removing motorcycle emblem badges when refurbishing the petrol tank or bodywork. Dental floss is the best way to handle these pads. Get a long length, wrap the ends around a couple of pencils / dowel (not fingers) and then slide the floss in the gap between the telrad and the telescope. Using a gentle sawing motion, gradually pull the floss all the way along, cutting the pads. If it starts to stick, then use an occasional drop of washing up liquid as a lubricant. Then you can clean the remains of the pads off the base of the telrad and the telescope with your solvent of choice. Si
  13. 2 points
    So. You agonise for weeks about a camera and ask loads of questions and then you use clear nights to set up AT ? You've a sight more patience than me ! Dave
  14. 1 point

    From the album: Wales - Summer 2013

    © Copyright - Stephen Lloyd 2013

  15. 1 point
    Even though I have just bought 3 Delos eyepieces 10mm,12mm & 14mm I cant help feeling I must buy the 17.3mm and a 2 x Powermate. Am I loosing the plot
  16. 1 point
    Hello all I have taken 5x10 minutes with a qh8yl and 10 inch meade lx200 acf
  17. 1 point
    Well sorting out mechanical and collimation issues with the 12 RC is finally beginning to pay off. Here are three images recently taken with the scope and the QHY8L Doug
  18. 1 point
    Going totally OT for a moment, I'm seeing a 3D effect in Pig's sig, with the blue farthest and the red nearest to me, with the green in the middle. Anyone else seeing this, or have I totally lost the plot? I've not bought an EP since I got my Megrez, and probably won't now. Embrace the Dark Side young Jedi
  19. 1 point
    Sorry to hear that Sky Clad, we have been lucky in devon, for a change! Hope things clear up soon:) Tim
  20. 1 point
    If the scope is level and the figures are entered correctly, all that is required is a one-object (one star align or solar system align) to give the scope an initial point of reference and then, yes it can find its way around. The problem is getting the scope PRECISELY level. That is why you add another object so that the scope's computer can work out how far unlevel it is. This of course assumes that you know which objects you are entering. If you do not know what the objects are, (using skyalign) it needs three to work out what you have pointed at, so it can again 'get its bearings'. HTH
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    Hello & Welcome ===Shaun
  24. 1 point
    My scope arrived this afternoon. It took an hour or so to set up - all straightforward. However although I was joking yesterday about cloud it has actually appeared! Sorry everyone...
  25. 1 point
    That is nice Stu, thanks for sharing. I'll add that to the iPad, they don't appear to do one for android I wrote a Windows widget to work with SteveL's twilight calculator. Cheers Ant
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    IMO Goto kits are rip off, id rather buy a new mount and sell on the old one.
  28. 1 point
    Agree with the above, depending on what you're intending to take images of: Lunar/Planetary: get a webcam and use the 150p & EQ3 DSO: DSLR with 150p & EQ3 (not sure how long exposures you'd be able to achieve though) Widefield: get some cheap manual SLR lenses off eBay etc, such as Olympus OM Zuiko 28mm F2.8, 35mm F2.8 or 50mm F1.8 and an adaptor to fit them to your 1100D. Then mount the DSLR on a short dovetail (with or without a ball head) and put directly on the EQ3. £170 for a refurb 1100D on eBay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Canon-EOS-Rebel-T3-EOS-1100D-Digital-SLR-Camera-Body-/400506820656?pt=UK_CamerasPhoto_DigitalCameras_DigitalCameras_JN&hash=item5d40111830
  29. 1 point
    Like many I've enjoyed the clear skies this last weekend and am looking forward to the coming weekend! I've gathered 3 hours of Ha data on each of the two nebulas mainly in 10min subs but also as an experiment a couple of 20 mins subs for each; I also experimented with 2 x binning and then re-sizing for some of the subs in the Veil. I processed in Nebulosity and the noise reduction really helped lessen the remnants of the bayer matrix visible when zooming in (a result of the reduced number of pixels, only the 'R' ones, registering the light I presume?) I have to say I've been inspired viewing the Ha images posted in the last couple of weeks, and Martin-Devon encouraged me to not rush the data collection, so I'm quite pleased with the effort. I think I can improve on the stacking having also experimented with Bad Pixel mapping, drizzle and DDP. But I really feel like I'm making progress. The colour versions are also pleasing and they are WIP as I get a feel of blending in the Ha with the OSC colour subs. I've downloaded GIMP but have yet to try it. Any pointers you have on blending the Ha will help. Thanks for looking, although only 2 low-res jpegs attached. Barry
  30. 1 point
    John Inverdale would have something to say about that I'm sure.
  31. 1 point
    Nice how thoughtful of you. My wife just gets 'Happy Birthday, I love you' every year!
  32. 1 point
    I have some "Best Buy" suggestions at: http://binocularsky.com/binoc_choosing.php#5
  33. 1 point
    That is so sharp!!! what luck, well done Alexandra
  34. 1 point
    Welcome to SGL, Astrodam! Dana
  35. 1 point
    That depends on the surface brightness of the object. Faint objects obviously need moire than brighter ones. Rule of thumb is that an F/10 scope needs 2.8x the exposure time of an F/6 scope to attain the same signal to noise per pixel. I think your image is not that bad at all. I had a little play at contrast stretching without changing the background too much, and this is the result: Not bad at all, I would say
  36. 1 point
    Hi Russe, I think this is the dredded back focus issue with newtonian scopes. Have a look at the 5th paragraph under 'Telescopes and Their Suitability for CCD Imaging' in the link.
  37. 1 point
    Light pollution in most of Northampton is pretty bad most of the time Astrodam, so I hope you have more luck wherever you are in Northants. I have found a few darker sites, such as around Salcey Forest / Harlestone Firs etc. but it's been a long time since I caught a glimpse of the Milky Way from Northants. All the best, Phil
  38. 1 point
    Great shot Aprill , must have cost a pretty penny to get the pilot to keep to the same circuit so many times .... I had a C-130 fill the screen this morning as I was focusing the Mak , certainly finished off the wakening process , nearly went backwards off the stool in shock ...
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    Hello Astrodam and welcome to SGL!!
  41. 1 point
    Here the latest Hubble pallete update. Managed about an hour an a half again last night before EQMOD ASCOM stopped responding. Total then of 8 x 5m Ha over 3 sessions, 8 x 10m OIII over 2 sessions and 6 x 10m SII over 2 sessions.
  42. 1 point
    The little circle only really comes into play when you line up the Plough and Cass with the sky and polar scope as a way of getting Polaris position in relation to the NCP. As Knobby says the home position is weights down scope up. If you have the clock position of polaris at a given time then you just place Polaris to that position. I would prefer a polar scope with clock points rather than the small circle as it does become confusing and the handset gives you the position anyway. When you think about it if you use the circle to align the mount you then rotate the scope into its home position then its already out of the small circle. The polar scope dosnt move after that but Polaris will continue to rotate the large circle. If that makes sense.
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    Hi Astrodam welcome to the lounge, Good luck with the A P. Enjoy. Clear Sky's
  45. 1 point
    Hi born and raised in Northants myself I don't get back enough. Enjoy this wonderful hobby.
  46. 1 point
    Hi, astrodam, and welcome to SGL! That is a very capable scope you have there - especially if you have access to dark skies. Have you tried searching for any of the deeper sky objects yet? The Ring nebula in Lyra is well within the capabilities of your scope, is easy to find, and is a real 'wow' when seen. Probably a bit difficult at the moment with the skies being so light, but well worth a visit towards the end of August. Martin
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    Hi There, Warm welcome to SGL. If you have not already done so download a planetarium program to complement your books. Lots around, try Stellarium its great and free and can be found here :-- http://www.stellarium.org/
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    passed on to me by Robbie use polar scope then calibrate phd as normal turn off dec guiding in phd (in the brain settings) find star on ecliptic in south start guiding phd any drift will be in dec adjust azimuth till no /very little drift in south go to either east or west turn on guiding as before ie no dec guiding but this time adjust altitude till little or no drift you can go back and check then to improve it you can do same in maxim and I would guess AA(not used it for ages) Steve
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