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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/01/13 in all areas

  1. 21 points
    Hi all, hope you enjoyed tonight's program, a lot of hard work went into it and I think it was truly magical. I hope we did Patrick proud. The Sky at Night programs I spoke about on Twitter will be presented by Chris Linttot, Pete Lawrence, Chris North and myself. I thank you all for your support. Best wishes, -Paul.
  2. 8 points
    Thanks to you all for your kind remarks, it really does mean a great deal to myself and the rest of us that both Patrick and the program is so well loved and highly regarded. Patrick very much wanted the program to continue after his passing, he often said this. He also wanted the program to continue with the team he had put in place. I will pass on your best wishes to the rest of the guys. If you've not already found it, further information on upcomming programs, times of transmission and other stuff can be found at our website here: http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b006mk7h Let the good work continue I say! Keep looking up;-) Best wishes, -Paul.
  3. 6 points
    This sunday 13th BBC 4 are showing classic sky at night episodes from 7PM.
  4. 5 points
    May I just say with all due respect that if we want to discuss the physics deeply on this subject that a new thread is made. The OP is new to the hobby and the thread is getting frightening. The OP asked for wider fields in their scope. Like everything in this hobby there are quick answers and there are more rounded answers but I fail to see how the direction of this thread is helping a beginner who will in time, if they are interested and at their own pace, learn the science behind optics
  5. 4 points
    Having worked through Ken Crawford's processing tutorials, I'm going back over some earlier images and applying a few of his techniques for better sharpening and more saturated colour ..... which seem to be making worthwhile improvements. This is a rework of an earlier post: NGC7331 and Stephan's Quintet (plus some nice smaller background galaxies). It's 3 hours lum. + 3 hours RGB in 200/ 300 sec subs (all 1x1) with QSI583 and MN190. Full size image is here: http://universalconstant.com/NGC7331_LRGB_new.jpg Adrian
  6. 3 points
    Hi Well the weather is great So I thought I am not going to get any new Data so I had a fiddle with my M45 A bit less noise reduction and backed of a bit -- I have really struggled with the colour as the faint stuff is just about blue ( I think ) Go on Let me have it ( comments that is ) High res version here http://www.harrysastroshed.com/Image%20html/m45%202012.html with the old as well Regards Harry
  7. 3 points
    Or even Lyra vs Tal 100rs vs 16" masked to 100mm? I think Qualia's plan of a SGL/'Frac fraternity' star party in Spain is a good one myself, oh and he also mentioned something about Mojitos?
  8. 2 points
    No this is not a scam. I know this is not directly astro related, however I imagine it would be of great interest to astro imagers generally. Admins/Mods please move the thread if the Astro Lounge is deemed not the corrrect place for this. Nick Howes has just tweeted the following: Photoshop CS2 is now completelly FREE to dowload. No catch, from Adobe - http://fstoppers.com...emium-plus-free You just need an Adobe account. A serial number is provided for both Windows and Mac versions.
  9. 2 points
    as the topic says,I got my scope this morning .But as you all know,the skies..... my morning porridge looks better in the bowl. Anyway,got the scope assembled in maybe 15-20 mins.Looks awesome. i am really exited.Now waiting for some clear patch so i can align the scope with the finder.Also got telrad on the order,should be here tomorrow hopefully (FLO) and on top of that i also ordered Baader Hyperion Clickstop complete with barlow.So all in all,the skies do favour me a tiny bit. i spent last 3 days drilling through the topics about the lens options and decided to go for the cheapest option:Baader Hyperion Clickstop as i liked the option of zoom (handy for new starter) and it also worked out a bit cheaper to my uncle Visa.later on when i get the hang of the observing, i will definitively try a single piece options.Photography is on my :"to do" list for future . Will keep you posted here folks about either my first success or disaster lol. First target: Moon.
  10. 2 points
    A total newbie. Been interested in Astronomy for a long time but couldnt but a telescope. Finally have some pennies. The sky here in SOT isnt too bad but I have the chance to view the sky just outside of Lockerbie. Great no street lights. Best Regards Tony.
  11. 2 points
    Got a night of clear skies so decided to grab some Ha on the Horse head area This is 4.5 hrs 30 min Subs with 5nm Astrodon filter and the Pl16803 and Tak 106 http://upload.pbase.com/t_total123/image/148183512/large Les
  12. 2 points
    I used to love M78. Now I have mixed feelings about it after banging my head on it for about the last six weeks!!! I'm now dreaming of searingly bright, dustless emission nebulae... Olly Oh no, just seen I need to re-crop that right hand edge. It haunts me!
  13. 2 points
    Evening all! Well had a go at imaging Jupiter tonight for the first time. Sort of a success although I'd like a bit of advice on how to sharpen the image up, if at all possible! I used my TAL-1 scope with a Canon 550d, i've had a basic exposure to Photoshop but apart from that I'm well an truly in the dark! Thanks! Craig
  14. 2 points
    Readers of my panic buying thread in the Whole Scopes section will recall an expansion of my astro collection to accommodate some winter Sun. SWMBO was determined to briefly escape the dreary British winter and top up the tan, with my feature requests being "clear, south, warm a bonus". After much research, we booked a trip to Cabo (Cape) Verde. CV is located a few hundred miles off the west African coast and being still northern hemisphere (14-16 degrees N) the flights are between 5 and 6 hours from the UK. The latitude means the Sun peaks at a little over 50 degrees altitude at this time of year, so still feels strong on the skin, and daytime temperatures have been 26 or 27C dropping to 19 or 20C at night. The nation is gearing up for increased tourism in the coming years and as such is still developing its infrastructure, but the people are friendly and welcoming and (for now) it's reasonably priced here for a decent standard of accommodation and facilities. Anyhow, for all things astro... the latitude potentially opens up some interesting southern hemisphere viewing, although this is mediated by what scope you bring, the season and the local conditions... I packed a (panic-buy) William Optics Zenithstar 71 for the journey for a few reasons... the wide FOV (f/5.9), portability (on the mini Porta with 1.25" diagonal and EP it tips the scales at 6kg total), and fear of what happen to my beloved SCT I also saw it as a challenge...would I be able to find anything without my trusty GOTO and no experience of star hopping? The OTA and accessories were carried-on the aircraft. I brought a Hyperion Zoom and matching 2.25x Barlow, my ES82 11mm and 32mm plossl. Santa had apparently been listening to my rantings about how the ES68 24mm is impossible to find and instead surprised me with the green-lettered analogue (apparently Santa finds the TV in my collection more pleasing to look at than my ES family...) The season... it's technically winter here, but see above for weather however there has been varying amounts of wind each day with gusts up to 20mph, so late afternoon on the beach can feel a little cool. The wind obviously has implications on stargazing and there's a fair amount of twinkle below about 35-40 degrees altitude. One of the locals I was talking to says the wind eases off in spring and summer. Also, the portion of sky under the celestial equator west of Orion until about Capricorn is a bit barren for a small scope at this time of year, but Vela, Carina and Centaurus roll in the big guns in the early/pre-dawn hours. April would probably be a more restful time Local conditions... playing holiday roulette my 'luck' normally works against me, but to make a refreshing change we've got a balcony (?open but with a roof) with an unobstructed view from South through the West to NNE in Az and from about 5 to 60 degrees in Alt with little in the way of direct light cast. This is where I was viewing from last night, but I will have to grab-and-walk for about 10 minutes to find a secluded (hopefully) dark spot to view horizon peepers from. TBC Every night that we've been here so far it has been clear. Windy, but clear, with the occasional fluffy cloud moving swiftly by. You can't have everything! From the point of view of naked eye viewing, we've watched the Moon move east night by night using Jupiter as a point of reference, and I've pointed out stars not visible from home such as Canopus and Achernar, finger pointed at how Sirius almost looks like a dog from down here, Orion laying on his back, his fuzzy sword (followed by a lesson on star forming regions!) and his bow. Last night I got "you can see a lot of stars here!"... my response being that we'd be able to see a whole lot more if it wasn't full Moon. With regards to light pollution, we managed to see Upsilon Pegasi (mag 4.4) just after astronomical darkness while sitting at a table in front of a (over-lit) beachside bar on our first night here. Needless to say, I used it to illustrate how bad our LP is at home since we can only see that on the best of nights...and that we should move (I'd been earning multiple brownie points for my astronomy lessons up until then...) For telescopic viewing, I have a makeshift target list (follows) and welcome any suggestions of what might be visible with a small 'frac, realistically with Dec of -60 or more northerly... Omega Centauri Centaurus A (pushing my luck maybe!) Eta Carinae nebula (low) Gem cluster Jewel cluster (low) Omicron Velorum cluster I've been surveying for a suitable viewing site for these and the beach looks like the obvious choice with low light (or bust!) So after all the rambling so far, on to practical session 1...
  15. 2 points
    Greetings, happy new year to you all! Here's some reasonable drawings of Jupiter made in perfect conditions! Strangely, we had a late clearing on 3rd January and the seeing was superb for many long periods of time. I was able to examine the disk and satellites at x400 and record an above normal amount of detail. Alas the clouds rolled in at 2316UT, but I was more than happy with the night's work (though a full rotation would have been excellent). By the way, if you don't know, the next two Sky at Night programs after tonight- will be looking at the Sun in February, and in March we shall be going through the results of the Winter Moore Marathon. The program with be presented as usual by Dr. Chris Lintott, Pete Lawrence, Dr. Chris North and myself (Dr. Paul Abel ;-) ) I would also like to say a note of thanks to all those who have expressed their support for the program along with some well deserved affection and tributes for the great Sir Patrick Moore. May he always be our patron saint. Let the good work continue. Best wishes, -Paul.
  16. 2 points
    I can understand this being an issue but there is a simple solution. Every time you start a new step, produce a duplicate layer - this way you can quickly go back and view an earlier version (layer) and switch between this and the latest version by simply turning the relevant layers 'on' or 'off'. Layers are a key feature of PhotoShop.
  17. 2 points
    You can make considerable savings buying second hand but you really need to know what you are looking for and how to assess it. So it's not allways a good idea for a complete newbie and often it's best to buy new with all warranties and after sales service in place. It's a good idea not to jump at the first thing you see - but by all means research the item. Phone first and ask if they have a receipt from the original purchase so you can check the date/age. Most astronomers look after their kit - so if it's under a year or eighteen months old - most of the time it'll be in good and working condition. Check the new price and also see if you can find the item on astro buy/sell to get a feel for s/h prices. There will be different things to check depending on wether it's a newtonian, a reflector. or a compound scope (eg mak or sct). You need a thorough knowledge of your scope type. Also the type of mount it's on - alt/az, eq, manual, motorised, or goto - you need to know about your chosen item - and in the case of electronic - how they work and how to test it. If your knowledge is lacking in any of these areas then join a local astro soc and start learning, ask questions here, research retail websites and review sites, visit an astro shop, or go to a star party. The basics are actually quite easy - but there's a lot of them and it can get very confusing. Try to get to know an experienced astronomer and ask if they'd be prepared to accompany you to purchase a scope - it can save you a lot of money in the long run and it's worth a good drink for a friend - though most will be happy to help for free. If you have any specific scope, or question, in mind then ask here in the Beginners Section or feel free to pm me - I'll help if I can. Good luck
  18. 2 points
    Watching the adverts for SGL I keep finding myself shouting at the television to the guy looking at the stars from in front of his car....'turn your bloomin' headlights off'!!!!
  19. 2 points
    There's so many different options this is a really difficult question to answer but here's one option: Get a really good mount, the mount is key for any astro imaging. I would suggest an EQ6 which are around £840-£1000 depending on the variant and vendor. Now a smaller telescope will obviously not need a mount this big - but this mount gives you room to grow. A telescope is next. There's lots of different opinions and the price range is huge. I have reflector on an EQ6 and really like it, others swear by refractors prices range from £250 - many thousands. You'll need a camera. You can pick up a DSLR like a Canon 1000d for around £250. To get it modded to improve the Ha response can be done yourself or cost £100ish. Or you could go for a CCD camera dedicated to astronomy and the prices go into the many thousands though there's some good starting options starting at around £700-800. You'll need a guide camera. These cost around £250+. You'll need a guide scope at around £100, something like a ST80. A computer to make it all work, software for image processing, cables (like USB cables, extension cords, surge protector, rcd protector etc.) There's also guide rings and other attachments to mount the guidescope to the main telescope. As you can see there's a lot of different options.
  20. 2 points
    Paul, Many thanks for keeping us up to date. I stayed up to watch the programme last night and it was a very fitting tribute in the way it showed beginners learning how to use their equipment. Sir Patrick Moore had spent his life encouraging others and his closing best wishes were extremely poignant. Dave
  21. 2 points
    I don't know what this last post has to do with the original question. Can we keep the thread on topic please which was simply to ask for some advice on a decent wide angle eyepiece for his 114mm F/8 newtonian scope with a 1.25" focuser. Thanks
  22. 2 points
    Summary: Go with Nephilim's suggestion, the set-up's quite future-proof, you can get the adapters for mounting different imaging equipment, be it ccd, dslr, or afocal, and have a play, discover for yourself what you can get out of it. You can upgrade your mount by getting the motors (a must for long exposures), and maybe, if you want to, buy the synscan goto system for it at a later date. I'll tell you this, you won't be getting the best pics of far away DSO's with this scope, I think it's going to be a great introduction to that whole separate aspect of astronomy. You can toy around with webcams/afocal for planetary/lunar (I have seen some interesting photos of Jupiter and Saturn done with afocal photography), and if you get the motors, buy a shutter release cable, t-ring and t-adaptor for a dslr, and try capturing some basic clusters and nebulae. That's what I'm aiming to do anyway. As long as you feel comfortable with your ability to handle the scope, and as long as you have fun, that's all that matters. Do try and find an astronomy group, people more experienced at your side will help you get the most out of your set up, so you can enjoy what you discover more. I have had an invite from my local group, after talking about my first pictures with my dslr, and am looking forward to learn from them and enjoy being in the company of other people who share my interest (friends and work colleagues think I'm a right geek). And lastly, DO read the books recommended by people on here, such as the Philip's Stargazing with a Telescope, Turn Left At Orion, oh and the Sky At Night magazine!! Let us know what your decision is. Nat
  23. 2 points
    Those ASI120MC cams must be good if they are capturing volcanic activity!
  24. 2 points
    My Xbox Livecam arrived this morning along with the EP adapter from Billetparts. Took 10mins to open, kill the LEDS, remove the stand and re-assemble. Have left the iR filter in for now but have a 1.25" one on its way. Quick test and all working in then daylight, just need some clear skies now to test it properly. But, for £15 all in, I'm delighted!
  25. 2 points
    We are receiving an increasing number of reports from members protesting at new members post farming. Post farming is where someone joins a forum then posts rapidly in a short period of time to increase their post count. If the posts differ and are actual conversation then it is probably someone being enthusiastic so we don't consider it harmful. If someone is simply cutting and pasting the same message (i.e. "Welcome to SGL") or posting messages that are out of context then they can be disruptive to the flow of a conversation. We are also wary of new members post farming simply to gain access to the For Sale section. SGL is a freely available forum run by volunteers and dealing with post farming is time consuming. To save time we will no longer contact new members who are post farming but when we consider it blatant and disruptive will simply reset their post count to nil or in extreme cases end their membership.
  26. 2 points
    If you buy the book, you'll not buy the wrong thing!!! Mount - HEQ5 Scope - ED80 Camera - Canon 1100D Reducer - ED80 reducer / flattener available on FLO site - You will benefit from this if you use a DSLR as the corners will be distorted without it Various adaptors to get it all to fit! This is a good DSO rig.
  27. 2 points
    Some imaginations running overtime here, but perhaps a read of this thread http://www.cloudynights.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/5570803/page/10/view/collapsed/sb/5/o/all/fpart/1 might be relevant.....I haven't given your image any real thought except to note the rgb alignment is way out on the moon in the enlarged image, but optics (including tuning/collimation and quality) as well as seeing yield strange results at times.....but certainly not volcanoes or invading aliens..!
  28. 2 points
    Best time to observe? After my neighbours have turned off their lights and gone to bed!
  29. 2 points
    Just to clarify - that's a different Pete to me (I'm Pete Lawrence btw), but the sentiment is the same. The next Sky at Night will be broadcast tonight (Sunday, Jan 6th) at midnight - details here: http://www.bbc.co.uk...rammes/b006mk7h It will be an emotional show for all of us but Patrick wouldn't want us moping about. He'd want us outside enjoying the stars (weather permitting!) and pushing forward the subject he loved so much - astronomy! If any of you are doing, or have completed, the Moore Winter Marathon - don't forget to send your completed forms into the show. Details of the Marathon and where to send your results are available from our website. Patrick's legacy is huge - let's do him proud! Pete L.
  30. 1 point
    This abbreviated write up has been overdue for ages but at last I'm making a start I have split the pier construction from the ground preparations and main shed design and build.
  31. 1 point
    Lets hope the weather clear up then here is my system I´ve noticed the weather system back home in Scotland is much better. I´ve done about 14 years of Scandinavian winter...... I´ve had enough!
  32. 1 point
    Wookie that sounds really good, Im up for that. Midnight_sky_watcher I was in the signals for 6 years, feel insignificant to your 22! I was attached to P coy lads throughout my time and worked along side both SFSG and Pathfinders (also the marines equivalent the BRF in Afghan) having worked with those guys I take my hat of to you for sticking it out!
  33. 1 point
    Hmm, this does need to be said, Andy, though I'm glad you said it first hehe, sorry. But the 200p / EQ5 combo can accurately be described as wibbley and wobbly, so it'd be wise to keep it in mind when deciding on your purchase. Although its probably the smallest and cheapest mount available for basic AP if you need a lighter option, anything smaller would struggle to be an imaging set-up at all and you'd have to use a tiny scope (ie EQ3-2 with small refractor) and be very lucky and patient. Regards Aenima
  34. 1 point
    Thats an awesome first scope I'm sure when you combine it with the Baader EP you'll be in for some visual treats:) Make sure you pay attention to collimation though at f/4.7 it will need to be reasonably accurate, collimation isn't a difficult thing to learn though so enjoy your new scope:)
  35. 1 point
    mass remains the same but there is no weight in space, weight is a combination of mass and gravity, on earth basically the same.
  36. 1 point
    The spacing is important. The focal reducer/flattener is essentially a Petzval lens, which in true Petzval design scopes is at a fixed distance from the front objective lens. In those scopes, all the focuser needs to do is to put the CCD chip at the right distance from the Petzval lens. In the situation that the Petzval lens moves with the focuser (as with a focal reducer/flattener), you need to put the CCD at the right distance from the Petzval lens first, using spacers, and then move the combination to the correct spot to achieve correct focus.
  37. 1 point
    Going multi-purpose: Around 300 EUR / 245 GBP: 1a. Blackfly: http://blackfly.ptgrey.com/GIGE/Blackfly (GigE) 1b. Ximea xiQ MQ013MG-E2 http://www.ximea.com/usb3-vision-camera (USB3, early support in ShapCap only, needs good USB3 host / PC with PCI-E slot) 1c. IDS UI-1240LE http://www.ids-imaging.com/frontend/products.php?cam_id=159 (USB2) High end: 1. IDS UI-1240LE-NIR (470 EUR) 2. PGR cams with big Sony CCDs (very high price) And with smaller CCDs (planetary): ICX618 based camera in good price. On ebay there may still be some PGR Chameleon left (good lunar/solar camera). There are still PGR Firefly cameras in "webcam price" - but treat those as entry level mono cameras for planetary imaging (and small area of Sun/Moon) that at the moment doesn't offer high gain values.
  38. 1 point
    I was amazed to find that it cleared from 5:30 until about 9pm here. Although I was plagued with bad luck. Despite my scope having the correct anti-cord wrap setting on, it still managed to defy that and wrap the cord round the legs 5 times, yes 5 times! So I had to re-align constantly. Mixed between that and the fact that my new laptop suddenly decided to switch itself off a few times for no apparent reason means I spent more time fiddling, aligning, booting up said laptop than testing the cameras. I eventually gave up with the cameras and decided to do visual which was also doomed as next doors security light that has not gone off once all summer when viewing, kept coming on constantly. I grumpily decided to call it a night and sit in front of the TV instead, especially as I noticed a thin layer of cloud approaching. Which of course cleared the second I had packed everything away. I think I complained a bit to my wife. Maybe a bit to much, as she threatened to take the telescope off me Ahhh, the joys of astronomy
  39. 1 point
    Welcome Dave, Must get some clear skies soon surely! Phil (Northampton)
  40. 1 point
    Hey and welcome to SGL!
  41. 1 point
    Hello Dave & welcome - another Coventrian here
  42. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum. Until recently I worked close by at Hinckley for many a year.
  43. 1 point
    Hi Dave and welcome to the forum. Congratulations on your recent purchases which will certainly keep you busy for some time ahead. If you haven't done so already, I would recommend downloading a free piece of planetarium software called Stellarium which you can view here. Lots of great features to help you find and identify found objects. It can be configured to produce an identical night sky to that seen from your viewing location and has a nice advance date/time facility to help work out what is coming up later on in order to help you plan your observing sessions. You can also decide on how the simulated sky appears to you (constellation labels, cardinal lines etc) which is very useful in helping you learn the night sky and to remember where everything is - very useful when the clouds come in! Clear skies for now and enjoy the forum James
  44. 1 point
    Either ..... 1. The finder is not aligned with the scope or .. 2. Jupiter was in the eyepiece but VERY out of focus or .. 3. You had the lens cap on - LOL - just joking
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    Matt, your 60AZ is a basic 60mm refractor, with a focal length of 700mm, allowing for the basic general guide of 50x per inch you will have a top mag of 118x in perfect seeing conditions, but not often obtainable in our climate, which reduces the viable mag down to something in the order of 25x to 30x per inch. So 70x to 80x or thereabouts is the theoretical maximum mag to use with this scope, to enable you to see any reasonable detail and all this in generally good seeing conditions. Your 20mm eye piece will give you 35x and a suitable 10mm ep will extend this to 70x. The 3x Barlow which you have may be usable with the 20mm ep giving 105x on a night of extremely good seeing, but unless the optics on both are of reasonable quality the image may still be degraded. The 4mm eye piece which you possess gives a mag of 175x way beyond the capabilities of your scope. Another point to remember is that as you increase magnification illumination reduces and if you also have no motor drive to your mount, you will be trying to chase your target across the field of view. Although the foregoing may seem a bit long winded it may help you to understand why you have not been able see any objects clearly. Basically you need to set the scope up during the day to ensure that your finder and scope are focused and centred on the same object, the tip of a distant TV aerial is fine, check that your 20mm does not give you a degraded image. when you have finished setting up for a nights use, re-check your finder to ensure this is still correctly aligned. If you want to add a further eye piece to the 20mm I would also support the acquisition a 9mm orthoscopic as these are an excellent choice and will work well in your scope John.
  47. 1 point

    From the album: Deep Sky

    I think this will be the last process of this data...

    © 2013 Ian Russell, CC-BY-NC

  48. 1 point
    I went through 3 x 25mm and 3 x 5mm X-Cel LXs' before I got ones without hairs or other particles of unknown debris inside them. Then of course so you use them in anything other than room temperature the end caps contract and are then almost impossible to remove without ripping off the rubber around the eye cups, not that they require much handling before they just fall if anyway.
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    On the subject of step ladders I have been into this for public outreach events at our community observatory. For a 10 or 12" dob a 3 step set of D1 rated heavy duty steps are usually fine they must have a high position handle and side runners to hold. I have found the Abru heavy duty version (not the domestic ones) to be correctly rated and very sturdy with a large top platform. Select ground that is level, and make certain you have a red light to shine on the steps and eyepiece. 'Hold the ladder not the telescope' is my mantra! I often find it is better to leave the ladder in place with individuals that are tall enough to view. It gives them something to hold and keep themselves steady. Parents/group leaders should be informed in advance that some use of steps could be required. Parents or group leader should be close by during observing. Sadly I must also advise caution in direct contact with observers unless this is to avoid some physical injury such as falling off a ladder (in which case it is classed as a reasonable action.) I have CRB enhanced clearance as do the majority of demonstrators that work with me. Other demonstrators are deemed to be working under my direction and so are also accepted by most school and community groups. (take care on this). Scout leaders etc will be CRB cleared so you can operate under their direction if you do not have clearance yourself but make them aware of this. It is also important to remember that you could have a disabled observer so I tend to keep a small 6" dob or refractor handy that can be used from a wheelchair for at least some objects. Last tips, if you are lucky enough to operate from a really dark site, pick a night when there will be some Moonlight if you are working with a group that have not used telescopes before. Always have a fall back plan in case it is cloudy, near by room for talk, demo etc. The main thing is follow simple guidelines and a great time can be had by all, as observers we get real pleasure in bringing views of the night sky to a group of youngsters, our last event was 175 lower school pupils who all got to see Jupiter, the Moon and various other objects...Fantastic! Best wishes, Linton
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