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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/08/19 in Blog Comments

  1. 5 points
    Half round file Stu- one with fine teeth and gently and patiently- very easy to catch the edge and bend it. Here it is in the spider- I’m about to fit it to the tube- hope I didn’t mess up any measurements
  2. 3 points
  3. 3 points
    Moved it to D6- that did the trick. think it should be strong enough 30D8DFF2-43AC-478B-AA75-B980CEC1CC78.MOV
  4. 2 points
  5. 2 points
    Second time lucky- I ordered some ss mudguard washers and turned them to size this time and the soldering went perfectly I also discovered that the citric acid I bought to descale my kettle works great for removing borax flux Just need to not make a balls up of bending the edge over now...
  6. 2 points
    AKA the pencil sharpener All ready for the hand-controller...
  7. 2 points
    I'll start with some photos of the observatory taken a few years ago. From the north looking roughly south and then from the south at various angles.
  8. 1 point
    Hi Gina, I've got the Raspberry Pi - now all I need is a telescope, mount and CCD camera! Seriously, though, great post Ian
  9. 1 point
    Well done, turned out good in the end. Very neat join and well done on the folded edge, that can be tricky to get right.
  10. 1 point
    Perfect nice job done there
  11. 1 point
    @Gina et all, I have just released astroberry-diy drivers (including focuser, relays and system info). This version is independent of WiringPi and BCM2835 low level control libraries. Instead I decided to use the latest libgpiod, which uses mainland kernel character device. This makes the driver totally independent from any external library. As for now the driver need some testing so it is kept in separate branch. As soon as you test it and confirm it works ok I will move it to master branch and release debian packages. You can grab the source code by running: git clone https://github.com/rkaczorek/astroberry-diy.git cd astroberry-diy git checkout libgpiod Make sure that you have libgpiod-dev package installed before compiling this version. The compilation should go smoothly by running: mkdir build && cd build cmake -DCMAKE_INSTALL_PREFIX=/usr .. make make install Please let me know if it works as designed
  12. 1 point
    Add bs=8M when using dd bs it stands for block size - it will significantly shorten the time
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    Change into the astroberry-diy directory before running the second command? James
  16. 1 point
    Run the following to grab the version with BCM support: git clone https://github.com/rkaczorek/astroberry-diy.git git checkout 3283e99
  17. 1 point
    I've just done the same with mine but ran it by ssh'ing into the pi itself it returned a lot of drives but it is 128GB card astroberry@astroberry:~ $ sudo fdisk -l [sudo] password for astroberry: Disk /dev/ram0: 4 MiB, 4194304 bytes, 8192 sectors Units: sectors of 1 * 512 = 512 bytes Sector size (logical/physical): 512 bytes / 4096 bytes I/O size (minimum/optimal): 4096 bytes / 4096 bytes Disk /dev/ram1: 4 MiB, 4194304 bytes, 8192 sectors Units: sectors of 1 * 512 = 512 bytes Sector size (logical/physical): 512 bytes / 4096 bytes I/O size (minimum/optimal): 4096 bytes / 4096 bytes Disk /dev/ram2: 4 MiB, 4194304 bytes, 8192 sectors Units: sectors of 1 * 512 = 512 bytes Sector size (logical/physical): 512 bytes / 4096 bytes I/O size (minimum/optimal): 4096 bytes / 4096 bytes Disk /dev/ram3: 4 MiB, 4194304 bytes, 8192 sectors Units: sectors of 1 * 512 = 512 bytes Sector size (logical/physical): 512 bytes / 4096 bytes I/O size (minimum/optimal): 4096 bytes / 4096 bytes Disk /dev/ram4: 4 MiB, 4194304 bytes, 8192 sectors Units: sectors of 1 * 512 = 512 bytes Sector size (logical/physical): 512 bytes / 4096 bytes I/O size (minimum/optimal): 4096 bytes / 4096 bytes Disk /dev/ram5: 4 MiB, 4194304 bytes, 8192 sectors Units: sectors of 1 * 512 = 512 bytes Sector size (logical/physical): 512 bytes / 4096 bytes I/O size (minimum/optimal): 4096 bytes / 4096 bytes Disk /dev/ram6: 4 MiB, 4194304 bytes, 8192 sectors Units: sectors of 1 * 512 = 512 bytes Sector size (logical/physical): 512 bytes / 4096 bytes I/O size (minimum/optimal): 4096 bytes / 4096 bytes Disk /dev/ram7: 4 MiB, 4194304 bytes, 8192 sectors Units: sectors of 1 * 512 = 512 bytes Sector size (logical/physical): 512 bytes / 4096 bytes I/O size (minimum/optimal): 4096 bytes / 4096 bytes Disk /dev/ram8: 4 MiB, 4194304 bytes, 8192 sectors Units: sectors of 1 * 512 = 512 bytes Sector size (logical/physical): 512 bytes / 4096 bytes I/O size (minimum/optimal): 4096 bytes / 4096 bytes Disk /dev/ram9: 4 MiB, 4194304 bytes, 8192 sectors Units: sectors of 1 * 512 = 512 bytes Sector size (logical/physical): 512 bytes / 4096 bytes I/O size (minimum/optimal): 4096 bytes / 4096 bytes Disk /dev/ram10: 4 MiB, 4194304 bytes, 8192 sectors Units: sectors of 1 * 512 = 512 bytes Sector size (logical/physical): 512 bytes / 4096 bytes I/O size (minimum/optimal): 4096 bytes / 4096 bytes Disk /dev/ram11: 4 MiB, 4194304 bytes, 8192 sectors Units: sectors of 1 * 512 = 512 bytes Sector size (logical/physical): 512 bytes / 4096 bytes I/O size (minimum/optimal): 4096 bytes / 4096 bytes Disk /dev/ram12: 4 MiB, 4194304 bytes, 8192 sectors Units: sectors of 1 * 512 = 512 bytes Sector size (logical/physical): 512 bytes / 4096 bytes I/O size (minimum/optimal): 4096 bytes / 4096 bytes Disk /dev/ram13: 4 MiB, 4194304 bytes, 8192 sectors Units: sectors of 1 * 512 = 512 bytes Sector size (logical/physical): 512 bytes / 4096 bytes I/O size (minimum/optimal): 4096 bytes / 4096 bytes Disk /dev/ram14: 4 MiB, 4194304 bytes, 8192 sectors Units: sectors of 1 * 512 = 512 bytes Sector size (logical/physical): 512 bytes / 4096 bytes I/O size (minimum/optimal): 4096 bytes / 4096 bytes Disk /dev/ram15: 4 MiB, 4194304 bytes, 8192 sectors Units: sectors of 1 * 512 = 512 bytes Sector size (logical/physical): 512 bytes / 4096 bytes I/O size (minimum/optimal): 4096 bytes / 4096 bytes Disk /dev/mmcblk0: 119.3 GiB, 128043712512 bytes, 250085376 sectors Units: sectors of 1 * 512 = 512 bytes Sector size (logical/physical): 512 bytes / 512 bytes I/O size (minimum/optimal): 512 bytes / 512 bytes Disklabel type: dos Disk identifier: 0xd9b3f436 Device Boot Start End Sectors Size Id Type /dev/mmcblk0p1 8192 532479 524288 256M c W95 FAT32 (LBA) /dev/mmcblk0p2 532480 250085375 249552896 119G 83 Linux Disk /dev/zram0: 64 MiB, 67108864 bytes, 16384 sectors Units: sectors of 1 * 4096 = 4096 bytes Sector size (logical/physical): 4096 bytes / 4096 bytes I/O size (minimum/optimal): 4096 bytes / 4096 bytes Disk /dev/zram1: 64 MiB, 67108864 bytes, 16384 sectors Units: sectors of 1 * 4096 = 4096 bytes Sector size (logical/physical): 4096 bytes / 4096 bytes I/O size (minimum/optimal): 4096 bytes / 4096 bytes Disk /dev/zram2: 64 MiB, 67108864 bytes, 16384 sectors Units: sectors of 1 * 4096 = 4096 bytes Sector size (logical/physical): 4096 bytes / 4096 bytes I/O size (minimum/optimal): 4096 bytes / 4096 bytes Disk /dev/zram3: 64 MiB, 67108864 bytes, 16384 sectors Units: sectors of 1 * 4096 = 4096 bytes Sector size (logical/physical): 4096 bytes / 4096 bytes I/O size (minimum/optimal): 4096 bytes / 4096 bytes astroberry@astroberry:~ $
  18. 1 point
    Here's probably best: https://github.com/WiringPi/WiringPi/releases It looks as though Gordon is no longer developing WiringPi, so I imagine the github site will be the primary source now. James
  19. 1 point
    Wow. There's a blast from the past. Back in the day Gordon Henderson and I used to hang around some of the same mailing lists (where "the day" was twenty years ago or more). James
  20. 1 point
    I have a fuller scopes 6inch newtonium in my shed my very first decent telescope with b class mirror now unused, brings back memories of some very enjoyable nights viewing
  21. 1 point
    Starting the year with a widefield narrow band rig with 135mm f2.5 Asahi Super Takumar Lens as used on vintage SLR film cameras such as the Pentax Spotmatic. These are superb quality lenses even at full aperture and all my imaging has been with full aperture. Camera - ZWO ASI 1600MM-Cool with ZWO EFW and Astrodon 3nm filters. Rig mounted on EQ8 and without guiding at first. Capture with RPi 3 running INDI firmware and saved in Linux Mint desktop indoors running KStars/Ekos.
  22. 1 point
    That's pretty much how my D-Bot is. The wheels are on diagonally opposite corners. With a heavy bed it's best to use 1mm pitch screws to avoid 'back-driving' when power is removed or z motor(s) de-energised. That's assuming 1 motor per screw. If just 1 motor with screws driven by belt/pulley arrangement then steeper screws may be ok.
  23. 1 point
    A bed weight of several KG would be better supported on 3 threaded rods I reckon and guided with metal wheels on two 20mm x 20mm V-Slot extrusion rails.
  24. 1 point
    I'm no longer sure about using the C-Beam and Gantry Plate system in view of the cost mainly though if I decide to change the Z axis on the Concorde I would have most of the parts to transfer from Concorde to Giant. The Concorde printer Z drive system does not appear to be performing as well as I had expected though I'm not sure the rail system is the cause, I have some investigations to do.
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    Wow, amazing job. That rim holding the mirror in is so neat, and evenly trimmed, how did you do that?
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    Thanks Stu gave it a coat of hi-temp exhaust paint which seems about as matt as you can get (or I’ve found anyway)
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
    Well that went easier than I thought
  31. 1 point
  32. 1 point
    Very cool. Congrats! Rob
  33. 1 point
    Oh no! It was looking so good in the first few pictures Mark. Hope you find the right way of doing it next time!
  34. 1 point
    Here is a photo of the printer I've just taken.
  35. 1 point
    The lights dim when I run the mains heater on my Giant printer Well, not quite but it is 1.2KW which is more than a bar of an electric fire. Having tried PEI sheet on my Concorde printer with unsatisfactory results, I'm now not sure about using it on the bed of my Giant printer. I didn't do very well with plain aluminium for print adhesion though and unless I can adjust print settings to make plain aluminium work I shall definitely try the PEI.
  36. 1 point
    Thanks Rob- will try to keep this blog updated as it progresses Mark
  37. 1 point
    Nice!.. I'll be interested to see this when completed. Rob
  38. 1 point
    I've been scratching my head to find a way to motorize my roof, haven't found it yet, nice to see someone did !
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    I think I would leave out 6, if anyone is interested and missed it they could use the Q&A section. I would merge 1 and 5 together as they are linked, target object and size of lens used (whether camera lens or telescope) that way you get wide field in there as well. Here I would have sample images to show from a still from your wide field camera to a nebula in NB to a planet. Just a couple thoughts and agree what a wide subject to fit in to 40 minutes.
  41. 1 point
    That galvanised clothes line pulley wasn't good enough - the cord rode up over one of the cheeks. Replaced with a 3D printed one which works fine.
  42. 1 point
    After applying geometry to the idea of using 8mm plaited cord to open and close the window from the ROR I set it all up and tested it. It worked perfectly. The pulley system shows the situation with roof and window closed (vertical). When open the cord from floor over pulley to window is straight floor to pulley and window is lowered to horizontal position. This arrangement has the advantage of evening out the pull needed to close the window a bit. Operating the window doesn't add much to the force required to close the roof. If I want to open the window without opening the roof, I can unhook the pulley block from the window cord.
  43. 1 point
    Chain end brackets fitted to ROR. Now waiting for the penny washers to secure the chain.
  44. 1 point
    On to the motor drive, I released the clutch on the motor to free the chain, pulled the chain through and connected it temporarily to the east end of the roof with a clamp. The weight of the chain was enough to pull the roof open. Decided to see if freeing the chain from the worm gear motor drive would allow my to close the roof by hand in the event of motor failure (the reason for choosing this special type of garage roof opener motor unit). I opened the roof about half-way, pulled the chain through to take up the slack and then (with the clutch free) pushed the roof closed with the chain going through the motor unit. Found I could do this quite easily. RESULT! Next I tried power on the motor to see how well it opens the roof. Connected motor to bench PSU set to 13.8v and applied power and (once connected the right way round) the motor opened the roof effortlessly! Maximum current was about 2A and generally around just 1.4A. Test successful!
  45. 1 point
    The NW corner is done and the same as above but I haven't got a photo yet. The east corners will have gate hanging hinges use as peg and loop - at right angles to normal orientation. This shows the idea.
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    As the diagrams show, apart from the motor unit, chain and brackets to attach the chain ends to the roof, two sprockets or pulleys are needed - a small one and a large one. I had some black ABS circular blanks some 150mm diameter x 22mm thick and decided to machine one of these in my lathe to make the large pulley. The smaller one I 3D printed.
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
    I designed a perpetual calendar mechanism to go into my longcase clock and had it installed and working. Unfortunately, I couldn't get the clock working so the calendar had no trigger at midnight. I decided that the clock was far too crowded, so I dumped the calendar section from the clock. I really want a decent sized and clear to read calendar as the digital clock/calendar I have is almost unreadable, particularly in the evening. The perpetual calendar has thus bean moved into another project, and this is it. The whole mechanism has been 3D printed and all the parts are there but they need a new host. The original calendar mechanism was weight driven with a fly fan to regulate it. It was triggered from the main clock at midnight from a 2:1 gearing down from the hour shaft and a snail cam.
  50. 1 point
    Great advice on the start post and I do tend to agree about the ease of a Mak (obvs as my main scope is now a 150 Mak!). To add a bit of further balance, my first scope was a Celestron 'First Scope' a mini Dob brand new for £50. This did the trick for me as the Moon, Jupiter, Venus and Mars were all visible through it (with pretty rubbish stock eps) and made me want more. I then went to a 150 Dob and although it was good it is not as good (in my opinion) as the 150 Mak. Granted, my Mak is on a GOTO mount which makes it FANTASTICALLY easy to find stuff, but the views I have had through the Mak of the planets have been awesome and has even got me looking at DSOs - something I found not so easy with my Dob. So, I would concur that a 127 Mak would make a great starter setup but equally you wouldn't need to spend even that amount to get the bug - a decent set of bins would also do the trick - I certainly agree that jumping straight to a 200mm Dob may not be the wisest choice for a total noob. As loads of people will say: the best scope is the one you use the most. On that measure my 'best' scope is my ST80 as I use that even on holiday abroad and can set it up in minutes...
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