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Showing content with the highest reputation since 21/10/18 in Blog Comments

  1. 4 points
    Following getting my 3D printers confused in Firefox and changing settings on my Mini printer, which was printing the bed clamps of Concorde, instead of the Concorde web site and messing up both print and Mini printer, I decided I'd print the parts on Concorde. So now I'm printing the second bed clamp on Concorde itself. Hence I now declare Concorde as a working printer even if it isn't finished!
  2. 3 points
    Hi Gina, I did a lot of professional public speaking in my career and have couple of thoughts based on what you have said so far. Given this audience is not astro people - I think I would first engage their interest by first talking about something they will understand - terrestrial photography. Hence, describe how a DSLR camera works first. Hence; reverse thes two slides Explain how terrestrial images are typically done with short exposures and how that works fine. Then explain that longer exposures and adjustment to ISO are necessary to capture enough light for evening pictures. Then it is natural progression to quickly explain how more extreme long exposures (or stacked long integration time short exposures) are needed to do astrophotograpy . Then mention how daytime images can get blurred if you are trying to capture an image of a fast moving car. Then, only after people have grasped these essential camera basics, explain the rotation of the Earth and the impact that has on long term exposures and the need for tracking and or guiding. If you offer this same information the other way round, I don't think many in a broad audience will adequately make the link between exposures, earth's rotation and 'star trails'. However, if you reverse this, it becomes a far more logical progression of information. Just my two-pence worth....
  3. 3 points
    Finished clock except for the motor drive unit - tested with a DC motor-gearbox. Arduino Nano arriving tomorrow. The one I had was faulty.
  4. 2 points
    I have decided to get the ZWO ASI 120MC-S from FLO. I feel a bit "lost" without the ASC image to look at! If this camera turns out not right for my ASC I can use it for planetary imaging later as I have in mind. My standard widefield imaging rig is taking priority though.
  5. 2 points
    Indi can control DSLRs via gPhoto https://indilib.org/devices/ccds/gphoto.html
  6. 2 points
    Umbilical support bracket. I'll explain how this will work later. This shows the print quality I'm getting from Concorde. Printed with a 0.8mm nozzle.
  7. 2 points
    Now if only I can solve the XY drive problem. Maybe try the 60mm long NEMA17s though the 48mm ones I'm using worked fine in my Giant printer. Tried increasing motor currents to 2A (they're rated at 2.5A) and now have some X movement albeit with much "grumbling"! Next test... Swapped the 48mm NEMA17s for 60mm ones with current set to 1A (rating 1.2A), r4eversed the drive for the RH motor and the X and Y drives are now working fine ? Some noise on slewing but considering they're mounted on a gert big sounding board, that's not surprising. That's with a slewing rate of 100mm/s in X or Y. PROBLEM SOLVED!! PHEW!!
  8. 2 points
    The whole gear train except for some of the bearings and axles.
  9. 1 point
    Nice!.. I'll be interested to see this when completed. Rob
  10. 1 point
    I've been scratching my head to find a way to motorize my roof, haven't found it yet, nice to see someone did !
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    I think I would leave out 6, if anyone is interested and missed it they could use the Q&A section. I would merge 1 and 5 together as they are linked, target object and size of lens used (whether camera lens or telescope) that way you get wide field in there as well. Here I would have sample images to show from a still from your wide field camera to a nebula in NB to a planet. Just a couple thoughts and agree what a wide subject to fit in to 40 minutes.
  13. 1 point
    After applying geometry to the idea of using 8mm plaited cord to open and close the window from the ROR I set it all up and tested it. It worked perfectly. The pulley system shows the situation with roof and window closed (vertical). When open the cord from floor over pulley to window is straight floor to pulley and window is lowered to horizontal position. This arrangement has the advantage of evening out the pull needed to close the window a bit. Operating the window doesn't add much to the force required to close the roof. If I want to open the window without opening the roof, I can unhook the pulley block from the window cord.
  14. 1 point
    The NW corner is done and the same as above but I haven't got a photo yet. The east corners will have gate hanging hinges use as peg and loop - at right angles to normal orientation. This shows the idea.
  15. 1 point
    There is a List of supported cameras on the gphoto website.
  16. 1 point
    I think the two tutorial approach might be more useful for beginners.
  17. 1 point
    Arranged anti-vibration mountings for the Z stepper motors and also a new X carriage with better piezoelectric sensor mounting and now eliminated Z motor vibration triggering the sensor. Now the hotend fan is triggering it instead so I need to isolate that.
  18. 1 point
    I've also done this sort of thing to an audience of non-experts. I tend to cover the broad principle of correcting for the Earth's rotation which leads nicely on to guiding (nothing too technical, just an explanation that you point at a star you're not imaging and movements of that star are used to correct for the movement of your target). Then I've done a bit on the principle of digital stacking - again in simple terms pretty much as Carole suggests. I have done a bit on narrowband imaging and I think have just about got away with explaining the physical principles behind emission nebulae with the help of a diagram or two and how that translates. I agree that people always seem interested in how far away things are, and of course that gives the chance to say that when the light hitting my camera left this object then dinosaurs were roaming the Earth (or whatever)... Have fun with it!
  19. 1 point
    Oh no! I hope you get it sorted, it's a really interesting project...but it seems you might have invoked the 'Titanic Effect'!
  20. 1 point
    I wonder if the focus is a little out? Nice that you can see the difference in colours between Betelgeuse and Rigel though, not to mention the Hyades and Leo. James
  21. 1 point
    Just an idea Gina but a few mentions from history could go down well. Here's a short list of a few " Names " that might interest you. Once you have those names you can look round for their images. http://www.catchersofthelight.com/catchers/archive#cat-History-of-Astrophotography It's interesting to know how far we've come and that over a hundred years ago they had roughly the same problems we do with this photography lark ! Dave.
  22. 1 point
    Generally photographic groups, and U3A and similar. Carole
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    Mine responds very well to darks for those hot pixels.
  26. 1 point
    This photo show how big even the smallest silica gel bag looks beside this little camera.
  27. 1 point
    Give Firecapture a try, just to make sure the camera is functioning ok Gina. <whisper>Or even oacapture, on a Linux box</whisper> James
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    I'd suggest exterior grade silicone sealant rather than hot-melt I think. James
  30. 1 point
    Hi Radek - great to see you here - welcome to SGL ? Your work on INDI drivers has been extremely helpful
  31. 1 point
    @Gina this is a great tutorial! Thanks for your work! I have just joined the forum so if you or anybody else need help with astroberry-diy drivers... I come to serve ? Clear skies! Radek Kaczorek Astroberry Server | NEQ6 | Atik 460EX | Atik EFW2 | ASI 120MM
  32. 1 point
    Been trying to set up Slic3r for this printer as well as the Duet config.g. Here's a test print of Benchy. Looks tiny on this printer ?. This was printed with a 0.8mm nozzle.
  33. 1 point
    Looking good. Is there any tilt front/back in the bed at all or has spacing the z-carriage wheels solved that issue?
  34. 1 point
    Quality looks great, must be quite quick with a 0.8 too. How long did that part take?
  35. 1 point
    I had it working and it seemed ok. I've gone back to using conventional optical endstops as it is quieter. Plus the resume on power fail doesn't work correctly with stall detection as it sets the axis zero to the nearest 4 full steps.
  36. 1 point
    Y endstop wired up and ribbon cable stuck to box. X, Y and Z homing all now working fine.
  37. 1 point
    Mains wiring finished and covered up.
  38. 1 point
    Soldering is ok as long as a good mechanical connection is made first. Be careful not to overheat the connectors though as the plastic melts easily on these connectors. I've destroyed a few myself trying to desolder connections. I would sleeve/heatshrink the connections after just in case.
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    Mains input connector arrived today so I've designed a plate to mount it on the box. Also made a hole in the side of the box to take it.
  41. 1 point
    Wiring for the LH XY motor and Duet board connected to XY and Z wiring.
  42. 1 point
    Sounds like one motor may be reversed? I notice one is 'upside down' which would reverse the sense of direction. Try unswapping them then flipping the connector on one stepper
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    Designed and been printing links for a cable chain.
  46. 1 point
    Working on the drive unit now. This is the layout of the stripboard and components. The RTC (Real Time Clock) is accurate to a minute or two a year. The stepper motor is a NEMA14. And the Arduino sketch // Filename :- Giant_Wall_Clock_v1_2018-11-12 // Software timing from RTC on pin 2 using polling // #include <DS3232RTC.h> //http://github.com/JChristensen/DS3232RTC #include <Time.h> //http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Code/Time #include <Wire.h> //http://arduino.cc/en/Reference/Wire (included with Arduino IDE) // String VerString = " Giant_Wall_Clock_v1_2018-11-08"; boolean lastSqWave = 0; boolean ledON = 0; int count = 0; // Used to flash LED int sqwPin = A6; int dirPin = 5; // DIRECTION pin int stepPin = 6; // STEP pin int slpPin = 7; // Sleep pin int rstPin = 8; // Reset pin int ms3Pin = 9; // Microstepping pin int ms2Pin = 10; // Microstepping pin int ms1Pin = 11; // Microstepping pin int enPin = 12; // Enable pin int ledPin = 13; // Internal LED pin // void setup() { Serial.begin (9600); // Enable Serial Monitor via USB pinMode(dirPin, OUTPUT); pinMode(stepPin, OUTPUT); pinMode(slpPin, OUTPUT); pinMode(rstPin, OUTPUT); pinMode(enPin, OUTPUT); pinMode(ms1Pin, OUTPUT); pinMode(ms2Pin, OUTPUT); pinMode(ms3Pin, OUTPUT); pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(ms1Pin, 0); // full-step mode digitalWrite(ms2Pin, 0); // full-step mode digitalWrite(ms3Pin, 0); // full-step mode digitalWrite(enPin, 0); // enable digitalWrite(rstPin, 1); // not reset digitalWrite(slpPin, 1); // not sleep digitalWrite(dirPin, 1); // set on test pinMode(sqwPin,INPUT_PULLUP); // RTC timing pin Serial.println(VerString); setSyncProvider(RTC.get); // the function to get the time from the RTC if(timeStatus() != timeSet) Serial.println(" Unable to sync with the RTC"); else Serial.println(" RTC has set the system time"); RTC.squareWave(SQWAVE_1_HZ); // 1Hz square wave } // void runClock(void){ for (int i = 199; i >= 0; i--) { digitalWrite(stepPin, 1); delayMicroseconds(10); // Make STEP pulse 10μs long digitalWrite(stepPin, 0); delayMicroseconds(30); } // ledON = !ledON; digitalWrite(ledPin, ledON); } // flash LED 1s on 1s off // void loop(){ boolean sqUp = ((analogRead(sqwPin) > 500)); // read logic level of 1Hz square wave if (sqUp != lastSqWave) { lastSqWave = sqUp; if (sqUp); { runClock(); } } // Call runClock on rising edge of RTC square wave } // End
  47. 1 point
    Here the latest build. The dial looked overpowering so I've streamlined it.
  48. 1 point
    This is how the clock will look on my wall which is primrose yellow. I may yet reprint one or two parts in a different colour eg. the hour gear which is orange ATM may look better in red.
  49. 1 point
    For reference hour pinion centre is 87.625mm from axle.
  50. 1 point
    Thanks for reviving this thread. I've been playing with a Nikon D5300 recently and noticed that the spatial filtering (a.k.a. hot pixel suppression or HPS)was causing all kinds of problems with star colours - mainly turning them green, just like the latest variant of the Sony star eater algorithm. It's all being discussed over on Cloudy Nights: https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/635441-aa-filter-spatial-filter-and-star-colours/ It's early days and it's not yet fully understood. However, it appears that the Nikon D810A (the one built for astrophotography) doesn't have the same issue because the spatial filtering is much less aggressive. So it's just possible that the D7500 is also using less aggressive spatial filtering than the D5300 and that's why it appears noisier. I'll take a new look at Mike's D7500 darks and see what I can determine. It'll definitely provide another interesting data point for my analysis. Mark
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