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  2. I've owned a couple of Skywatcher HEQ5's (which appear to be identical mounts apart from the colour scheme) and I've been looking around the web at photos of other folks Orion Sirius EQ-G's and neither my mounts or the ones that I have seen photos of appear to have a similar gap in the casing. So I don't think it is normal and, if I'd bought the mount new, I would ask the retailer to do something about it, ie: provide a replacement mount. I can't see the point in us consumers having these protections and warranty's if we don't use them when there is a legitimate issue that needs to be dealt with.
  3. Hi guys getting totally confused none of it making sense anymore. so when starting out ,roughly point north on mount and level it up with spirit level. Connect scope guide scope cables and then balance it all. laptop and battery turn on and make sure mount main cam and guide cam all connected . so back to mount/scope should the mount be at a angle so that the mounts polar scope has 0 at the top or weight at 6 o’clock and scope at 12 before u do pad on PHD2 have tried both ways and spent over an hour chasing stars into polar align box then redo pad and the box is not over star so have to readjust and this goes on and on . Not sure what’s happening I have polar aligned once with PHD2 perfectly and never again ( thinking now hot pixel). So I got fairly close so just thought I would see if apt would slew to item Ursa Major directly above my head and it ended up pointing west in to my house at that point I thought I would give up for a bit and have a cuppa . any suggestions always welcome . thanks Si
  4. Totally disagree! If I had paid that much for a mount and found it in that condition I would be all over both the supplier and the Manufacturer. Work like that is COMPLETELY unacceptable and consumers should not have to put up with it.
  5. I can see myself totally not caring about that gap if it were mine, my CPC1100 had little gaps and small anomalies all over but, it worked like a charm and i loved it.
  6. I removed and replaced the plate, it doesn't seem to be a matter of how it's placed. I think it's because of how the housing itself is positioned beneath it (difficult to describe). Definitely not opposed to DIY work but I just want to make sure I'm starting with a good mount.
  7. I didn't say that - it is sloppy! But it's a minor problem which you should be able to easily fix by either just tightening the cover screws or else undoing the cover and reseating it. I'm assuming your mount is identical to the Skywatcher Heq5 Pro. I was trying to point out that there are lots of other things that you might need, or want, to do anyway - at some point. It's up to you as to how you want to proceed with your supplier. Here is the diy belt drive kit that we can buy in the uk: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/belt-mod-kits/rowan-astronomy-sky-watcher-heq5-pro-orion-sirius-eq-g-belt-mod-kit.html It's possible to buy a heq5 pro in the UK with the belt mod already fitted, at extra cost, of course I fitted a diy belt mod to mine! Louise
  8. Thank you, John. Food for thought! I might get the 365 one. They look very well built. Thanks again
  9. With the 183 you'll be imaging at 3.66 per pixel. With the 163 you'll be imaging at 5.77 per pixel.
  10. Yesterday
  11. Fair enough, if you're saying that this sort of sloppiness is to be expected from a mount at this price, then I probably went in with too-high of expectations. However, I haven't found any mention of people having this specific issue. Do you think I should just tape it off and continue or try to swap it out with the supplier?
  12. Um, it's a budget mount! As I say, a bit sloppy to have the gap but the mount benefits from various fiddles/adjustments etc. You will probably want to upgrade the latitude bolt and either try and adjust the dec motor backlash, else fit a belt drive upgrade at some point. I imagine someone in the US does them. Have a read through all the various maintenance options linked to the above page. Louise
  13. Set up around 10am and straight away quite a lot of activity around the limb some very big proms and hedges slight facile around 11.00 Appearing top right seeing comes and goes but some great proms most of the day a shot from phone not best
  14. I've got an older Telegizmo cover for my 12" dob. I've used it to overnight the scope outside a few times when I could not be bothered to pack it up and also as a quick coverup if a shower comes along when out in the field with the scope. It seems to do a good job to me. The right balance of being robust and weatherproof while easy to fit and it packs reasonably small - I keep mine in an old football boots bag but maybe they come with their own bags these days ? Mines not the 365 one so I would not leave the scope out for long periods under it.
  15. ImPPG is well worth the effort to learn. Will make a hellava difference to your images. Just follow the tutorial until you get the hang of it. Onwards and Upwards.
  16. Thanks for the reply. Yea i was hoping that tightening the screws would do it, but it doesn't seal the gap. I could just use vinyl tape of course but for a $1,000 brand new mount it feels lousy to have to tape it up on day one. Do you think I should try to fix it myself or try to get a replacement from the supplier? Thanks!
  17. Here are couple of questions that might help: 1. Any chance you have filters in front of OAG? (those should be between OAG and imaging sensor - light for OAG should be unfiltered) 2. What is OAG / imaging sensor distance? 3. What is your guide exposure? Have you tried PHD2? Maybe it will work better than PHD. 4. What drivers are you using for QHY5II? Switching to ASCOM instead of native helps with SNR (fact that it will read 12bit values instead of 8bit). What sort of gain are you using with this camera? 5. What is focus of your OAG like? Do you have sharply defined stars in PHD or are they smeared out?
  18. Hi It looks like it's just the motor cover. I'd just make a photographic record. It's a bit sloppy to have a gap but it should be simple to fix yourself. There is a wonderful maintenance resource here: http://www.astro-baby.com/heq5-rebuild/heq5-we1.htm Louise
  19. Hmmm, a bit harsh.... I've successfully used the ST-4 connection with/ without EQMod on both my HEQ5 and NEQ6 mounts for over ten years. No issues, no drama. There are MANY happy PHD2 users around the world, many more than use EQMod. It's well supported and capable of giving good guiding. Like all the tools in your toolbox, it just needs to be used correctly.
  20. Has somebody got a telegizmo cover? No plan to store the telescope outside permanently of course, but I'm considering one for camping or for covering the scope outside early in the evening before observing.
  21. well had trouble in phd,so decided to start again and removed blade holding prism out and the prism fell off replaced but struggling to get a good snr in phd see seperate topic cheers
  22. Ah interesting, okay. I'm in the US but imagine it's similar
  23. Hmm, interesting point jam1e1. I recall before I received the mount a month ago and had a go collimating with the scope horizontal, I sensed a faint amount of movement in the primary when slowly rolling the tube but had forgotten about that. Pretty sure this wasn’t the mirror itself rotating, but the cell. I’ll have another look tomorrow. If there is movement, is it an easy job removing the primary and a fix? Apart from not touching the mirror, any advice while doing this? There’s plenty of dust on the mirror but I’m not sure I want to tackle that.
  24. I’ve changed air flow now sucking after reading this by Peter shah https://www.eastmidlandsstargazers.org.uk/topic/15034-using-cooling-fans-to-improve-an-image/?tab=comments#comment-150797
  25. I have a SynScan alt-az and I power it with a jump starter from Halfords. With mine there was a lead supplied that fitted the mount perfectly, including the correct polarity for the lead
  26. What seems to be the problem with OAG? I suspect most OAGs will be about the same - prism quality wise. Main differences will be mechanical. Most cameras, including QHY5II, will be sensitive enough. What can make difference is prism positioning. It will depend on F/ratio of the scope. Prisms can vignette on fast scopes and can act as if stopped down if they are moved further away. Let's say you have 8mm prism and you put your prism so that prism / guide sensor is at 80mm. You will effectively work your OAG on F/10. If you have faster scope, you'll benefit from moving prism closer to imaging sensor (and hence focal plane).
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