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  1. Past hour
  2. Well done Charl, just about to try and get a last shot at it through the murky mist. Dave
  3. Same murky haze here again today. Dave
  4. It’s the grey ash in the options extra €35 I think
  5. Beautiful scope, just wondered about your Berlebach Uni18 was that a special request for the colour as I can't find it on their web page?
  6. What is the green one ?? Is it some new Daystar narrow bandpass filter ?? Neon II ?? Krypton III ???
  7. I did the standard stacking in DSS nothing special. Then in PI First I used Auto Background Extraction which helped remove some of the light pollution but nowhere near all of it, so it still was very noticeable. Then I used Morphological Transform to slightly reduce the star sizes. Followed by the Screen Transfer Function with the Histogram Transform Tool to stretch the image. I then created a Range Mask to protect the nebula and used the Curves Transform to begin to darken the background. The pollution was still very visible so I resorted to PS. Here I simply increased the contrast and applied it using a large soft brush via a layer mask to the regions around the nebula. I repeated this a few times to try and get the background consistent. Finally, I used a High Pass filter to sharpen up the image, then resized to finish. That's it. I did have a play with GradientXterminator as well but didn't like the result so abandoned that version. Thanks again for sharing your data, the more practice I get hopefully I will get better.
  8. I switched from a Starlight Xpress ex guidehead because of the guide scale I was getting. The pixels in the guidehead were the same as the Lodestar but permanently binned. Perfect for an OAG. I us the Altair 60mm finderguider. I now guide with an SX Superstar which has 4.65 micron pixels which I can bin if I need to. I also have an Altair GPcam which I use for my travelling setup which doubles as a solarimagint camera on our modded PST. That works well for both uses. i did some calculations comparing imaging scale for my various setups which led me to ditch the guidehead. I was about 10x the resolution of my imaging setup and it was showing,
  9. Sorry, lost my internet connection.
  10. And now with extra marmalade:
  11. Looks like I need to try again with higher power, maybe my 6.5mm Morpheus and perhaps my Astronomik UHC too. Just need clear skies which I haven't had for 2 weeks or so...
  12. Today
  13. Couple more before AR 2738 disappears around the limb. These were taken about 10:10 BST:
  14. well fog first then milk, but managed a few images. there are more faint proms but there a waste of time with these skys but the one I caught is very visable. kit starwave 102 f11, quark. asi120mc. thanks for looking. clear skys. charl bye AR2738 come back again soon. Ar 2739 please grow mate. nice prom on the upper oncoming limb.
  15. Yes, incredible images. The rille next to the mountains, Mt. Hadley if my memory is working, is one of the Apollo landing sites. I've viewed the area, but not as closely as with your image
  16. Where I saw a smiley face, some more experienced observers see a complete ring. The link below shows pretty much how I should have seen it if conditions were a bit better: http://www.asod.info/?p=11891
  17. I wish you were in Alabama, not across the pond. I like the Pelosi set.
  18. Thought I'd have a try at using the 1600mm cool as a lunar camera, using a 120ED with reducer. Was only getting about 5 fps through USB 2 (my laptop doesn't have USB 3) but got this after stacking the best 100 frames out of 2000.
  19. Been thinking about whether I can combine the dehumidifier with the camera cooling to improve power efficiency. Looking at temperatures :- Camera may be -20°C Cold dehumidifier plate/heatsink - a degree or two above freezing Hot side of dehumidifier maybe 20-30°C (or more) Both temperature differences are easily obtained with Peltier TECs. TECs could be stacked with an aluminium plate between with the dehumidifier air cooler mounted on the aluminium plate.
  20. Caught it slipping into the wings: Gusty wind not helping.
  21. As impressive as the details near the terminator can be, you still can't help but really admire full moon! Thanks, wonderful inmages.
  22. Chrome and Firefox seem to struggle with really big images, the zoomable versions I linked to above should help with that.
  23. "Finding Objects" (as in telescope finder) may be a more general question. But perhaps there are some interesting ideas used by EEVA Enthusiasts? Recently I (finally) finished "improving" a VIDEO Finder for my 8" f/4 Newt. The finder is a cut down (beware the angle grinder!) standard 50mm finder plus a machined down 2" - 1.25" inch adapter. The Camera a Watec 902H2. https://www.modernastronomy.com/shop/cameras/astro-video/watec-astro-video/watec-902h2-ultimate/ I decided to reduce off-axis loading on my HEQ5 by mounting the finder (conterweights) pannier-style below the scope using the aluminium bar: Using an HEQ5 plus EQMod, I only need to find ONE (very first) star! But as an "EEVA Nerd" I like to do such things "electronically" rather than visually... Any kindred spirits on this forum? From my own experience, I find that you need to have "reasonable" ratios between the fields of Finder & Main scope - Particularly if you want to operate the whole system "remotely". And I am not *overly* fond of the 3-point screw guide scope rings? My ideal would be: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adm-guider-mounting/adm-mini-max-guider-guidescope-saddle.html But I'd have to "Save my Pennies" for that one!?!
  24. Hi there folks! I'm running in a small trouble with my autoguide setup. I've done some unguided astrophotography only with DSLR, but after a couple of years after I bought an used ATIK 16IC I decided to go guided. My current setup for guiding is SkyWatcher Evoguide 50ED to be coupled with the used ATIK 16IC. Unfortunately I wasn't able to get anything in Artemis software or PHD2 guiding. I've ended up pointing the scope to the moon and I got moon shots but completely out of focus. I did all possible focus steps, even removing the 40mm extension and nothing, can't really understand if I need to gain more distance from the scope to the camera or the other way around. With a 25mm eyepiece, I got focus nearly at the end of the focus travel Per manufacturer, the guidescope back focus is 60mm witha focal lenght of 242mm Any hints on this would be highly appreciated! Thanks!
  25. The BBC have had 110 responses. Mostly lamenting the loss of the sky and pointing out the futility of 'security' lights. I recognised some of SGLers in there. A few ill informed posts supporting 24/7 daylight, as you would expect. The site is now closed for comments. However, as the BBC archive these sites, it can still be viewed for some time. Thank you to the SGL members who took time to comment. David.
  26. Yep, for that reason I never used the built in hubs and just use the Pegasus UPB, even with the powered hubs on the 120EC I prefer to still use the UPB The issues were never with the mechanical or build quality, just software, so if you can find a secondhand one then a quick firmware upgrade will bring it up to spec with current models. In fact if a secondhand one came up after my bank balance recovers, then I would buy one for my mobile imaging as they really are quite light.
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