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  2. Thanks so much Alan. This sounds like mine and ours appear to be produced consecutively
  3. My replacement filter arrived yesterday morning - no rush to replace it as yet, we've not had Sun for a few days. Will need to watch a video or two to make sure I know what I'm doing....
  4. I am hoping i read your question right, \It might be a bit basic, but is what i found worked for myself. I have a 10 inch Dobsonian, For myself to get a full view of the whole moon i found the 25mm gave me the full moon in the eye piece with a little room to spare. I have found i need what they call moon filters to view the moon due to the brightness of it. But for the planets i use what is called a baader neodymium ir-cut filter, found this gave a good crisp image of Jupiter and Saturn. It is not the cheapest filter, but one i managed to pick up at a good price a good while ago. Eye piece for planets i found 10 mm was good, if seeing is great you can go with a barlow. I like the Tele Vue Delos eyepieces, but they are not the cheapest, see how you go with the two supplied eye pieces first.
  5. This is a combination I've used and enjoyed alot too; you keep the better eye relief of the long focal length ortho but keep the sharpness (as long as your Barlow is decent).
  6. I have a couple of SW scopes and just got the ED finder for guiding, that works nicely. I have always thought SW scopes are nice in the optics department without being Lzos quality, though they seem to let themselves down somewhere on most things. The Mak180mm which I got a few years back has the old style Mak thread and had the most awful visual back I have ever seen, so cheap I binned it then bought a SC thread converter and put my Meade visual back on it. Whilst the focuser on the M/N 190mm is not the worlds best I do feel it sort of does the job for many smaller cameras. It doesn't stop there though with some, as many people want large chip CMOS and CCD's as well as filter wheels and other bolt ons like OAG's, here I could see the wheels coming off
  7. Jon, I used to have the files on my Dropbox account, but it looks like I must have deleted them. I can put them back there this evening when I get home from work. In the meantime, here’s the QSI (now part of Atik) website support page with their email address: https://qsimaging.com/support/technical-support/. They might well sort you out quicker than I can if you fire a nice email at them! Good luck, well worth the upgrade. I’m looking for an email address for support to upgrade my skies... and now we are about to enter two months of no astronomical darkness... I despair!
  8. Thanks very much for the insights. It's a very good point - that if I were moving to narrowband imaging, e.g. using Ha/OIII/SII pallet, achromatic refractor could actually be a low budget choice. It is a bit disappointing that both luminance and blue channels would be affected - so it looks achromatic is certainly a show stopper for LRGB imaging. I'll probably just focus on finding a apo that suits me.
  9. The key difference between them is that the Ed80 & Ed120 are F/7.5 , while the ed100 is F/9, which makes it a bit slow for AP. So you'll find numerus photos with the ed80, as a great starter scope, and many with the ed120 (however less than the ed80 due to larger image scale and mounting requirements), but not as many with the ed100, which is oriented more towards visual.
  10. People (especialy vendors) who tell you things like that are just plain liers or they have no idea what they are talking about. It is physically impossible to see colours in the dark, because your are eyes are not capable of doing that, point. Some people think they see colours, but that is a trick of their brain... more like wishfull thinking. The only way to see the colours of DSO objects is to image them, which is quite a challenge with your set up... not impossible, but quite a challenge... The best advice I could give you is to buy the book: 'Making every photon count' by Steve Richards. It will help you to understand 'what, when and why', and will make your journey into imaging a LOT easier (and cheaper...).
  11. Great start there, Steve. Just one thought ... using a single (50s) dark will not achieve very much, except possibly adding noise. You really do need to take a batch (10 is ok) to average out the noise and remove it from the final image.
  12. Hello and welcome. Peter
  13. Hi, Space_gurl, and welcome to SGL. Enjoy the journey.
  14. Today
  15. From my reading around the subject, I read that the ES MN takes a long time to cool down because it's carbon fiber. Not sure how big of a problem that is in the U.K., but certainly in the summer it could be an issue.
  16. Haha.. I hope I'm so fortunate to be able to image with it. It's my first scope, but I've almost accumulated everything I need for AP. I do wish it came with a better focuser, the stock focuser really does feel rubbish.
  17. Very nice to read. I'm thinking of starting the summer recess soon. It's good to know there are still possibilities.
  18. From my point of view it is one of the most complete scopes on the market. If visual you can get good wide field views with the right eyepieces and whilst a bit over the top for exit pupil I always use a 35mm Panoptic giving wide view and low magnification. At the over end it handles a 3.5mm Delos of even a bit shorter with magnification of over X300, gives first rate planetary views of Mars when it's close to us. Also judging by what I have seen it is more than capable for imaging in the right hands, not sure those hands belong to me yet though. Alan
  19. I'm very pleased with the Skymax 127, it's lightweight, short and well made, the ideal grab and go scope in my book. Of course it needs some time to cool down to ambient, but that should be an issue. You always reed about how a Mak is best used for planetary observing, but in my experience it does a great job on the brighter DSO's, certainly most Messier objects are no problem. As astrophotography goes, i've only used it for Lunar work, i wouldn't know if putting a 0,5 reducer on it would be pushing it too far.
  20. Interesting stuff here, i've had my eye on the SW and ES Mak Newton scopes for a while now, but there aren't that many around you can read about. At least on paper these scopes look like they offer the best of two worlds. Choices choices, there so many great scopes out there
  21. The only wide angle that I've tried that competes with good orthos is the 12.5 Docter UWA with and without a barlow. I have no issue using my 15" dob with high power orthoscopic eyepieces. Ethos don't compete for sharpness/detail, the Delos is better in this regard but both have wicked contrast. A very good combination is a 12.5mm ortho (or 10mmBCO) with a barlow- hard to beat...
  22. It was a shock to read Per had passed away, my condolences to all his family and friends, I always found what he had to interesting and believe he was doing some great imaging from less than perfect locations. It was the thread by Gunnar that I have read at least a couple of times. As for the focuser, mine has the duel speed version and was bought about 5 years ago, the focuser always seemed fine with extension tube and heavy TeleVue eyepieces like the 31mm Nagler and 21mm Ethos, it was also pretty much OK with the Canon DSLR 40D. There was a problem which was in fact grub screws missing from the adapter ring, how 2 of them came out I will never know, maybe not there to start. These missing the weight of the camera cause a tilt. As for colimation I Hotect laser and found that to be fine, however being unguided images it was hardly put to a severe test of all's well. I see this scope is rated by many, I have always liked it alot for its visual ability and have split Sirius with is many times, also Antares. Alan
  23. I would choose a variable-polariser, rather than one with a fixed percentage, the 13% in question... https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p321_TS-Optics-variable-Polarising-Filter-1-25--for-moon-and-planets.html There are also other fixed-percentages available, up to 25% I believe. You'd have all the fixed percentages in one unit with the variable-polariser. A variable polariser acts as an indoor light-dimmer, but for the telescope. You simply twist the two halves together to adjust... Now, I'm not suggesting it so much for the Moon, although if the light from same bothers your eyes, by all means. Where I found great success with my own was when observing Jupiter, particularly during its opposition. I was observing Jupiter with a 150mm f/5 Newtonian, the next step down in size from your own. The planet was simply too bright, even at the higher powers, to see any detail. I then integrated the variable-polariser... I could at last see wondrous detail on Jupiter's surface. The filter also eliminated the flares caused by the Newtonian's secondary's spider-vanes. During Mars' fairly recent opposition, the filter eliminated those as well... But there was no detail to be seen on Mars' surface at that time, as the planet was experiencing a major dust storm. Those are digital drawings of what I saw live, and from Bortle 3 or 4 skies here at my home. Those 66° wide-angle eyepieces are sold on eBay, if you have access, and for considerably less outlay; for example, here's the entire set... https://www.ebay.com/itm/SVBONY-1-25-FMC-Ultra-Wide-66-6-9-15-20mm-Eyepieces-for-Astronomical-Telescope/323738641360?hash=item4b6053a3d0:g:SokAAOSwg31abF8r&frcectupt=true A pair of the 6mm and 9mm... https://www.ebay.com/itm/SVBONY-1-25-6mm-9mm-66-Deg-FMC-Ultra-Wide-Angle-Eyepieces-For-Astro-Telescope/362586394038?hash=item546bd54db6:g:UJ4AAOSw64tbnPqE A single 6mm... https://www.ebay.com/itm/SVBONY-1-25-Ultra-Wide-Angle-Eyepieces-Lens-6mm-66-FMC-for-Astro-Telescope-NEW/312505460469?hash=item48c2c6e6f5:g:-cIAAOSw-JJabFUX The full Moon is not usually observed, as there's little detail to be seen. It's during the Moon's phases that drives us wild... But then, why not, as I've observed the full Moon on several occasions... ...including that big "strawberry".
  24. Welcome to SGL, Best of Luck and Clear Skies of course... Freddie.
  25. Welcome from Australia How your skies over there 12 months ago was touring northern India, New Delia, Agra, Jaipur, Rishikesh, Varanasi, Amritsar, Mumbai, and the skies were very hazy during the day, and hardly see the sun When in Jaipur visited the Jantra Mantra What an amazing astronomical place https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1338 John
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