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  2. I have the 2.5 mm and it has given me some lovely lunar views. Definitely performs way above its price tag.
  3. Dome designed and added. Then there's the focus motor mounting and the main casing.
  4. I want to buy from amazon as I have a -50% coupon so I can get a mount for half tge price. Anyway, is the AZ-EQ5 enough to hold a 200/800 f4 skywatcher newton with guiding and a 1300D dslr? For AP the payload is 15kg.
  5. This looks very similar to the image i was after that night. I have just posted about it in the beginners imaging section. Thanks for sharing your setup details. I gives me something to think about
  6. Yes that is exactly how, you need to look up DSO lucky Imaging. Although it is something normally done with mono cameras.
  7. Aw c’mon guys I’m indecisive as it is haha. Can you explain how I would get more detail? Is it because lots of short exposures would compensate for poor seeing? Almost like ‘lucky imaging’ but for galaxies?
  8. Hi, I settled (for visual) at 18" (Dobson) and 4" (Refractor). The 4" is very portable, super optics and not much influenced by bad seeing as scopes with more aperture. And 4" is for me the minimum aperture. I tried 85mm two times and it was to less for me. The 18" Dobson is the maximum aperture for me concerning handling (weight, bulkyness) and shows already a lot. I have observed through bigger scopes already, but these where always to heavy for me to handle it personally. There is no use in a big scope which stays indoors because it is too heavy. cs, Uli
  9. Looking at that I bet your second star alignment was on the lower star circled in yellow, rather than Mizar (circled above). That would explain the short move ending up exactly where it did rather than on M101. If it was on Mizar it should have been an obvious wide double with Alcor.
  10. The wedge from the SA could work well, indeed! And much easier to polar align. My Sirui head does a fair enough job, it's very smooth. Not as good as a dedicated wedge, but well, the point of this mount is precisely that you don't need very precise polar alignment (the polar scope being a straw...)
  11. When I got back into this hobby, I did a lot of reading before taking the leap. I decided on an 8" dob because of ease in handling. But now that I've built an observatory, I wish I had gone 10" or 12". So yes, I'm still suffering the fever and it's not letting up.
  12. If I play back the two subs quickly back and forwards, one before the flip and the other one afterwards, the two bunnies on the upper right seem to move. But they could not have done, the camera never moved other than flip with the telescope!
  13. I have reinstalled everything. I have connected to my mount in pc mode on the remote via Eqmod in Stellarium Scope. When I try to connect to APT scope is just says disconnected and wont connect. Choosing same driver as in Stellarium scope. I can either connect to stellariumscope or APT but not both at the same time.
  14. Clicking on the three dots at the top left also allows access to desktop mode.
  15. The Sky X works fine for me. The Sky 6 has been out of support for some time. Long before Win 10 came along. Regards Andrew
  16. Click on your username by the side of your avatar at the top of the page and select account settings from the options. Then select signature from the settings at the side.
  17. Nope, I leave it all to Pixinsight to sort out. So you mean rotate the lights before calibration?
  18. Do you manually rotate your lights prior to stacking?
  19. Just wondering why you think a 5 inch reflector is "measly", lots of people on here don't use anything bigger, they provide a fabulous middle ground between seeing and usability. Generally speaking in UK skies a 10 inch is roundabout the point where atmospheric seeing begins to limit the true potential of a system and then you begin to get diminishing returns as the aperture increases (yes bigger is better but the opportunity to use it to its potential decreases and the setup time becomes such that real planning is required for sessions). You can find massive systems for sale second hand all the time, often bought by people who considerably misunderestimated the amount of time and effort and money involved in setup and ownership.
  20. But of course if the tripod has a pan/tilt head - often the case if already being used for photography, that will also do the job. Like the one to which I posted a link earlier in this thread. Personally, and particularly if using an accurate polar scope, I would prefer a head which has fine adjustments in both Alt and Az. There is a Manfrotto unit. but it's expensive, as are most look alikes. It's possible to buy separately the geared wedge for the Star Adventurer. Strong, stable and good value. The only problem there might be the fixing to the short dovetail if that comes with the wedge - it has a 3/8" bolt, but I think the Minitrack only has a 1/4" thread. Relatively easy to sort with a bit of ingenuity. A pity the LX3 doesn't have the larger 3/8" thread with a 1/4" insert - even more adaptable to a variety of mountings. A little later just to mention again the Andoer ball head which is good quality (I have one) and a substantial saving over the one supplied with the Minitrack. Peter
  21. I am really baffled folks and could use your help. I thought flats taken either side of the peer would work fine. They normally do... There is absolutely NO rotation of the camera taken place (TEC140 with Atik 460). Flats taken at same CCD temperature, same focus position. I tried different ADU for the flats and no difference. Retaken lots of different flats and still same result. This three hour data set in luminance is lost if I can't figure this out A sub (east side) of the peer before the flip and my flats calibrate out dust donuts. As it happens, flats ALSO taken East side of peer (facing my wall mounted flats panel). But the subs AFTER the flip (with the same master flat as before the flip) and the flats are leaving strange residual donuts that are not calibrating out. Vignetting removed but weird artefacts of the dust donuts are left. To repeat no rotation of the camera has taken place at all. Leaving me with a messed up result with 16 x 10 Minute subs.
  22. I've never had a reply from Skywatcher - but they dont really "exist" do they? I suppose skywatcher as an entity is mostly just "put shiny black and green on that scope over there", its all just part of the Synta umbrella (ok I'm maybe being a bit glib but you get my point hopefully). OVL Uk are probably the best people to ask as the UK distributers. Or better yet someone like FLO or RVO Never had an issue with Amazon either, they're usually pretty great - as long as its actually Amazon that you are dealing with. Some of the sellers on there can be a bit hit or miss.
  23. I have had my 8" SCT for 22+ years now. Must be doing something right. A key point in its favour is that it is very light and compact, so is easy to set up. I am considering getting a big Dobson as well. That won't replace the C8, merely complement it (and the 80mm triplet refractor, and 16x80 bins, and the solar scope )
  24. Today
  25. I tend to be a sensible sort of person who thinks things through before acting, ie. not impulsive, so my decision to buy my 12 inch Dobsonian was based on the two main criteria mentioned above - cost and practicality. I bought the very biggest scope I could afford and also the biggest I could sensibly handle, and I'm very pleased I did!
  26. JRM


    Hello Sainte, welcome to the lounge. Rick
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