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  2. ack so a minor error on my part. New board module arrived, powers up and gives a nice image. BUT its slightly oversize for the mounting sphere in the mini dome... DOH! So I guess plan-B then, leave this one up and re-fix this new one in the dud dummy dome housing to test and then acquire a new dome for its final fit. Got one on order that I purchased cheap as not working, that's of the larger type with an arm to wall mount it, so hopefully won't be a problem So I guess a side-by-side test is on the cards after all lol
  3. I'll put it up when I'm home. It won't quite match as when I edited the above I did it from scratch after cropping the area of interest I wanted to concentrate on so the look and feel is different.
  4. It's not real grease but some graphite grease which I use for my guitar nut and you're right I should be careful ... I think I'll listen to you and try with the plumbers tape... Thanks
  5. There are more DayStar products in the pipeline.
  6. And the... DayStar Solar Scout SS60-DS 60mm H-alpha Solar Telescope Grant is currently playing with assessing one of these
  7. Also... The DayStar Solar Scout 80mm Carbon Fibre H-alpha Solar Telescope In stock for overnight delivery.
  8. This has surely got to be one for the Mewlon 210, Stu!
  9. Great. One of these is on my list of acquisitions so which type would most users recommend - chromosphere or prom? No I cant have both!! Steve
  10. Thanks Gerry - any thoughts on the extenders (even the x3 is cheaper than a single EP and from ES, whats the drawback?!)
  11. Hi, I dont mind you making improvements and suggestions. I find them very helpful in trying to get to next level
  12. You can now buy DayStar Quark Solar eyepieces at FLO In stock for overnight delivery.
  13. I'd say no, as my mount is fixed, I just need to check Polar alignment every few months, but after that I just instruct SGPro\APT to slew & then plate solve...
  14. Congrats! The ES 24mm 68 is a great eyepiece.
  15. Chromatic aberration is not the only issue with cheap short-focus crown/flint refractors. A lot of them suffer significant amounts of spherical aberration as well, and the field curvature might be a lot less predictable/ correctable. Alacant's suggestion with a Wratten #8 is worth a punt but that's about as far as I'd go. A least from the theoretical point of view, your Newt is a known quantity...any coma corrector to suit the f-ratio should be giving very acceptable results out of the box assuming the spacing is correct. We are taking it as read that you are looking to do deep-sky work here..I don't think it makes it clear in the initial post. A decent long-focus achromat is capable of very reasonable results on planets/ moon with nothing more than a cheap UV/IR filter. Are there any other ways you could optimise your results from the newt, at minimal expense? Are you using a Bahtinov mask to focus? Is the CC spacing optimised? Would a cheap LPR filter help? Processing? If you're determined to go the refractor route, the old blue Skywatcher ED80s often change hands for about £200 secondhand...mine did! They are a very good start, if a bit slow. The focal reducer is a very worthwhile addition. I've been doing astrophotography for 40 years and I'm still amazed at my own talent to mess it up completely either by clumsiness or forgetfulness. Given the infrequent good nights, anything that makes the data aquisition simpler and more reliable has to be a good thing. A small ED frac can be a big step in this direction providing it suits your chosen targets (wide field); easier to mount (half the weight, half the focal length, less than half the wind sail area), don't go out of collimation. They are about the closest thing in astronomy to kit which "just works". It might be worth saving up....optimise the return on those precious hours spent outside. RL
  16. I use the Celestron AVX mount and I also use Astrophotography Tool when imaging. When I start my imaging session I will undertake a two star alignment then move to my target and THEN platesolve to ensure I have the object centred. My question is do I need to bother with two star alignment (or any other Celestron alignment for that matter)? My thought would be to Polar align then take a shot of Polaris and plate solve this, sync the result to the mount then “Goto” from there. The only issue I have is when you switch the mount on and enter time/date etc it asks you to do a star alignment so how do I ignore this or do I do just that, ignore it! Sorry for the rambling question. john
  17. Peter, The circuit as drawn should be correct. The diode where it is, protects the whole circuit and not just a part of it. Following the diode connections it is connected across the motor all the time which is what you want. Redrawing the circuit in a different way but keeping the connections the same would make it a lot clearer. If I have time I'll redraw it which should hopefully make it easier to follow. Hope the test goes well. Using a small motor for testing is a good idea, as if there are problems it shouldn't do any harm. Alan
  18. Hi folks, coming back to this again I've taken the plunge and got a 24mm ES 68* and just WOW. Love the increase in FoV angle from the Plossls, (profile pic is camera on phone looking down the EP, hand held). My next target is the mid-range and think I'm in love with the ES EPs. Made a fancy spreadsheet that shows the calculations of magnification, exit pupil, and TFoV (from both the quoted AFoV and the likely more accurate field stop). With this spreadsheet, I've also added columns to show how much of the EP is filled with different objects - eg the moon takes up ~40% of the 68*ES24, or ~15% taken up by M82 and can compare this to any other EP I'm thinking about. I was about to take the jump for birthday with a 6.7 82*, then looked and thought about barlowing - there's lots of discussion on this again, but the ES x2 FocalLengthExtender may be just what I'm after - this would allow me to have a 68* 12mm (using the 68-24) with half decent ER, with the possibility of later getting the 82*14mm and effectively having FOVs that would allow the moon to fill 40%, 58%, 80% and 115% of the eyepiece viewing (taken from the 24mm, 14mm, 24+x2 and 14+x2 lens choices (magnifications of 50x, 85x, 100x, 170x respectively) - the TFoVs being 1.3*,0.9*, 0.65* and 0.45* again respectively looking at that possible EP setup. I guess ignoring the 14mm for now (it may be better to get the 8.8mm), I'm wondering if the x2 is the best choice now so that I'd have a 24 & 12. Is the x2 a good choice that would be financially beneficial as EP collection grows... What are everyones thoughts on the ES x2? Better than Barlow? The ER won't change, which is fine, probably better. (The TV Powermate is well out of any range, so please don't suggest it!) Do most of you avoid focal-length extenders? Thanks again
  19. Might not be relevant but I have the Altair 80mm ED Starwave and its a fantastic powerful scope. I love it. I use it lots and the build quality is fabulous, the focuser is top quality and it gives great views. I would think the big brother would be just as good? Steve
  20. i'm not an expert reviewer and only use the simplest routines...... ie... scheduling a Ha LRGB or narrowband sequence , but a couple of things I cannot quite suss out, probably need to read the manual a bit better !!! I have a 9x 1.25" insert on the EFW2, but I cannot sequence FW position 9, it only seems to go up to 8 on the scheduler. Not critical but annoying because I have Hbeta in FWposition 9. Some sequences just will not start, is it because I have the exposure loop still active....??... well when I turn it off, it still doesn't start. Have to reload program to get it to work. Scheduler seems to write out directories of all the previous sequences I have had. ie. I store images in folders with the date as the 'name', when I create a new sequence it writes out all the previous ones as well, there must be a way to reset all of this. Other than that, good piece of software. I used to like the Artemis one as well. Straightforward and it works. Sean.
  21. For (a), if this was a real situation and not a typical simplistic course question, then you would also need to consider the solar spectral energy density, the atmospheric transmission and the efficiency of the solar cells with wavelength. (Not sure why they have given you the diameter of the sun, except that with this and the luminosity, you could estimate the temperature and hence the spectral energy density, though I doubt that is what they intended. Cheers Robin EDIT: Holy thread resurrection batman!
  22. Today
  23. same here had a qwick look couldnt spot anything at high mag to image. great set David, sols gone abit quiet again mate. charl.
  24. Thanks all, going to have a look see tonight and see how well my mount tracks.
  25. Indeed, the camera needs to go in the fridge overnight running 30 minute darks to make a master dark before I decide if there's an issue that a fw upgrade is required to fix.
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