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  1. Past hour
  2. I bought a mains power supply with dummy battery, chucked all the innards out and replaced with a buck converter, the unfinished bit is a crowbar circuit just in case Dave
  3. Hmmm, not feeling that brave to take apart my optics right now. As with gel sachets, I do have some, although it might need some replacing. I normally store my scopes in the closet with a gel sachet in the closet. If I expose my SCT to sunlight, I have to be careful not to cause internal heat buildup due to the folded light path. Could give it a try, if I even get any clear days.
  4. Most of my all night meteor attempts I use a hand warmer packet in a cloth holder tied to the camera lenses. It lasts all night during our milder nights. On much colder nights when it gets below 40°F I use 2 packets.
  5. Hi James, sure. Here some of them, I will attach them as stock , not edited. Some of them are good results as a reference. Best regards,
  6. I don't think it is all that different tbh. Yes, there are a few extra places you can tweak things, but whether that makes much of a difference in the end is debatable. I will concur that my images have become much better after going mono, but I attribute that more to learning processing than to the root data. I had a few misfires as well, but once you get the bayer down, it is smooth sailing. And you can actually do narrowband, it just takes longer to get the same signal. I'm also taking into account that the OP is very new to the hobby. Jumping straight into mono and filters and wheels and whatnot is probably not the optimal path to dipping toes into it. And I often yearn for the simpler workflow.
  7. It's a DC in the pic as Mark mentioned. It's the same optics as the DF, but the DF has a larger focuser with a somewhat longer draw tube better suited for imaging than the DC.
  8. Hi. We once did an old refractor. Best to dismatle it, swab in 1% copper sulphate solution -sold as swimming pool fungicide- and rinse well with distilled water. Use one of these to shine through it over night every few months. HTH.
  9. ideally you need to keep some silica gel sachets in with the optics to reduce the moisture levels, and keep them recharged (dried out in a low heat oven) regularly, which may help slow things down. As to killing off the fungus, exposure to UV would work, either exposed to sunlight for a few hours or using UV light source and do that periodically. Other than that you're looking at dismantling the optics and treating with hydrogen peroxide, ammonia, these articles may give some useful guidance: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3864060/ https://richardhaw.com/2016/03/27/repair-fungus-cleaning/ I guess the problem with astro gear is its rarely getting to see any sunlight/UV and moisture can build as they're moved from cold night environs into warmer after use. Makes having dessicant sachets even more important. Not found a source here in the UK for the sachets shown in the second article, they look very useful to have for optics in longer term storage, was thinking of those for the bino collection but they all have silica gel packs and I try to give each a cycle under UV every couple months just in case.
  10. I missed this before now. It's a lovely shot. James
  11. HI David, Hmm, it may be a balance problem. I balanced it with the 2" eyepiece , then replaced them with the camera, but didn't checked the balance . The weight difference wasn't that big
  12. One Baader UV/IR Cut Filter 1.25". Open Box Includes full manufacturer's warranty. £46.00 £39.00 (saving £7.00)
  13. For those interested in seeing them fly over (if indeed they are visible at all) click on this link which should relate to your location.... https://www.n2yo.com/passes/?s=74001 It seems they take about 10 minutes to pass over on average.
  14. It's a shame this can't be enabled in the SynScan App as the list of doubles is a bit limited.
  15. Plenty of daylight will normally stop the growth but in bad cases its worth stripping down and cleaning with a "lens cleaning" solution as the fungus will etch the glass if it takes hold. Alan
  16. Posting an example of some of the trails might help? James
  17. ... oops, sorry @alan potts, didn't read the original post thoroughly enough. Yes, the 80 Esprit gets very good reviews and again is on the right side of the price inflation /rarity value as the glass gets bigger. Still If I was going for a quality refractor, I might weigh up a larger aperture for light grasp but slightly faster than F5 to get more galaxies and smaller DSO's..... but with a decent Focal reducer available as well, which ultimately makes the scope more flexible. (if I dare to use such a word in the same context as imaging...)
  18. How do you decide on size for the shield, Gina? Or is it just a question of trial and error? James
  19. I agree with Alan on both points. I'd probably go with b) personally. However, if you want to stick with the LM7808, perhaps this will help: https://www.petervis.com/electronics/Voltage_Regulator_Heatsink/Heatsink_for_TO-220_Voltage_Regulator.html James
  20. According to Elon Musk once the satellites settle into their orbits , they will be not be visible at night. They will however be visible around dusk and dawn before passing into/out of the Earth's shadow. In the below link, Elon responds to the doubts! All are not convinced! Personally it makes me kinda nervous as I've just spent a large sum of money on a new mount, cameras, scopes, battery etc! https://www.google.ie/amp/s/www.geekwire.com/2019/sightings-spacexs-starlink-satellites-spark-awe-astronomical-angst/amp/
  21. Hey all, I opened up my scopes today to find fungal growth on both my refractor and SCT lens and corrector respectively. I live in a humid climate but I’ve never paid much attention to mold until now. Does anyone know how, if even possible to get rid of it? I heard that they ruin coatings, so I’m erring in the side of caution here. Thanks!
  22. Was everything balanced in the mount? I don't know the answer. Like I said, at 1000mm focal length, you really want good guiding. I was shooting at 570mm last week with essentially the same mount, good guiding and I still got slightly eccentric stars. Tbh, if you got around 30% good images without guiding, that's pretty good. Keep them and try to get guiding sorted for the next night.
  23. Your Brest and cheapest choice is the ef-s 50-250mm , they are cheap and you get a very good results after staking. But if you're planning to make DSO in future, you would by an EF lens. This image was taken with EF-S 50-250mm lenses. Best regards
  24. Sorry James. Should have closed this earlier. The motors work fine . Thank's for the offer. Cheers Dave
  25. And if I get stuck, Lorna call always push me. She said if I'm going that she's coming with me.
  26. I've printer dew shields for my lenses which have been quite successful. That Samyang is a nice wide-angle lens - wouldn't mind one of those Widest I have ATM is 28mm except for the ASC.
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