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  2. I have send you a PM (I think), I hope it has worked as I am new to this and it took a while to find how to message you via your icon.
  3. If you want to image at 0.93 arc seconds/pix then as as rough guide you need your rms guide corrections to be consistently less than half of this value eg better than about 0.46 arc seconds. If they are more then they will impact the shape and size and stars. The information above suggests that even with a belt modification you are going to struggle to achieve satisfactory results. Alan
  4. I have it’s a different experience
  5. Its make is “scope buggy” (that sounds sarcastic, but it’s a US product). It shouldn’t have a problem with a C9.25. If you are reasonably local I could pop round and you could try it out. Pm me.
  6. Looking for a 0.73x Takahashi Reducer (TKA18580) for FC-76D or a 0.66x Reducer FC-35 for FC-100D please contact me via PM!
  7. Hi, If you don't sell it to the one that would like delivery, I can come and pick it up as I live in Rainham kent. Let me know. Craig
  8. Apologies Stu. It seems I had my notifications turned off so I have not been seeing replies! It is still available.
  9. Apologies. I had my notifications turned off and have not seen replies! It is still available.
  10. Assuming that you have stretched both the Ha and Red channel, then you first need to blackclip the Ha slightly, this will minimize the impact of a red cast and colour imbalance. In terms of blending, I normally use the PS Screen Blending mode but I only blend a fraction of the Ha (eg 10 - 50%) depending on the target. For some targets, I also use the PS lighten blending mode. When you've decided on what percentage you want to combine at I'd also suggest you check the composite blended image for any clipping, eg excessive red - just roll the information pointer around and look for anything close to 255. If you find something near this value I'd suggest reducing the Ha in this region via a mask. Alan
  11. Ouch I hope the lights go off at midnight at least. The BBC article is closed for further comments.
  12. Dont know what you are talking about Geoff ..... Thank you
  13. A small PA error is no bad thing, very often, but if the 6.3 mins is correct it's a lot. Olly
  14. awesome picture - so much detail over 20 mins.
  15. I decided not to waste the clear skies even if the full moon was up so I spent 3h shooting M3. 1.5h of lum through the IDAS LP filter and 0.5h each RGB, all through the 200p F/6 newtonian. As for M13, that's another story. I started strong a while ago and shot some red and infrared with the 150PDS then moved to the larger 200p. With this one I shot about 12h of luminance and some 6h of G and B. All combined then on top (or below) I added the data I had from last year, another 20h, shot with the 130PDS, but tracked with the AZ-EQ5. The old data contributed maybe 20% to the final image. Here they are. Please click to go to astrobin and see them at full resolution. M13 is more worthy, Thanks for watching and clear skies! Alex
  16. I am still keen to buy this - please could you message me if still available Andy
  17. Thanks Olly, I was using about 1.5 secs almost all the time, the wind messed things up alot, I also run the guide assistant and though I didn't understand most of it it did tell me PA was out by 6.3mins, also gave me some settings but cloud came a stopped everything. It did tell me to use between 1 and 3 secs. Alan
  18. I normally blend at around 50% in layers in the red channel. Then re-combine the channels. Or blend at 100% and blend mode lighten in the red channel. I normally experiment to see which has the best effect. Carole
  19. Not sure I would need to look again, it was the lowest number, the other was higher, but the wind when it blew messed things up alot. I was guiding almost overhead but when it was still results look decent. Alan
  20. Today
  21. Hi When adding Ha data to the Red Channel in Photo-shop, should i be changing the blending mode,or leave it at normal? Appreciate any help. Mick.
  22. Here you go. This thread in mobile format, then I go to the three dots at the top right of the screen and select Desktop mode and that's what you get. All the info but very small. Of course you can put the phone into landscape which helps or just zoom in a bit. EDIT added a pic showing the three dots!
  23. Yes, this is the key thing. Unless you have plugged in the pixel size of the guide cam and the FL of the guidescope, PHD will give you values in pixels. You need them in arcseconds, so give it that info if you haven't done so already. Then you compare the RMS in arcsecs with the image scale of your main scope-camera and aim to get the guide RMS to be no more than half the image scale. It must be said that an EQ5 or EQ6 getting down to 0.5" RMS is doing well. I wouldn't worry about trying different exposure times on the guider. This is robust. Don't be fooled by the nice guide trace you get from ultra short exposures, though. PHD cannot know where the guide star really is, it can only know where the atmosphere has placed the star's image on the chip. If the seeing is moving the star around a lot the mount will simply chase its image round the chip, a process called 'chasing the seeing.' My EQ sixes seem to like about a second but this will vary with guidescope and camera. (Longer exposures allow the changes in stellar image position to average out somewhat.) I would highly recommend the Guiding Assistant in PHD. I think it's in the Tools. Just run it for a nice long time - five minutes, say - and then apply its recommendations. Great that you're in business! Olly
  24. Content deleted.. dual post .... my error
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