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  2. Hi Steve Your right! Although to some people I didn't get far last night for me It was leaps and bounds When I saw that picture of Vega, although I just found out how to alter the histogram to get the proper darkness I was shocked an amazed on the quality of my first 10 second image. The important part is I got everything working as it should but still need to learn the softwares back to front and continue learning in a never ending process I enjoy learning new things and love the challenge on working most things out myself. I have shed loads of questions but try and focus only on my next step to try and not complex things too much. By being able to goto which part of the sky and focus a target I want, will let me start capturing and introduce the next step. I am not looking forward to post processing so much but thats another learning curve. I will have to deal with it when I have some decent data to work with
  3. I got this little piece of the Moon in the mail today, and a few other meteorite bits too Here is the official classification on this one (North West Africa 8277) for those interested: https://www.lpi.usra.edu/meteor/metbull.php?code=59500
  4. Some round black and orange things. Not bad for £15.99 delivered for a brand new set.
  5. Hi All, My ED80 had the old single speed focuser and I would like to be able to fit the dual speed version to it. Would anyone know if this would be a direct swap over or is the DS SW focuser different and the whole part needs changing. I have been looking for ages for either a unwanted one or one that has been damaged but usable but so far fallen short. I do not want to use an alternative as they all seem to be missing the thread on the rear of the focus tube so I am not able to directly screw on my FF. cheers,
  6. It says to me it's the camera not the scope if the notch rotates as the camera rotates. When I first saw it I thought you were using a reflector and it was the focusser sticking into the star (as happened to mine until I chopped a bit off the end of the focusser. Not sure what to suggest with a refractor except my first line. Carole
  7. By the way isn't it a great feeling when things do go right on a session. Even if you do not get the data you really wanted just the fact you learnt how to do something and it worked is a great boost Steve
  8. Nice. Have you tried Imppg for sharpening yet?
  9. I caught up with Pallas last night. Here is a single frame from a short avi captured with a Watec 910HX/RC mono camera attached to a Celestron 9.25. Pallas is the brightest object near the centre of the image.
  10. As I said I am pretty new to imaging and learning but to be honest I had a few issues with Stellarium at times and struggled to get good allignment till I started using APT (a brilliant piece of software - I paid the small fee as well worth it). Now I have stellarium open but I do not use to move the scope as such, I really just use it to see what is in view and to pick a target that I then know will get at least a couple of hours imaging before it is out of sight. I do double click on it in Stellarium but then back to APT click on the object button, whilst holding down the shift key, and the position of the object will be transfered to APT so you can slew directly to that object in APT using the GoTo key. Take a test shot, can be short just enough to get the stars not necessarily the DSO, in platesolve click on "<<Scope Pos" to transfer mount position so it can solve quicker, then click "Solve", when succesful click "Sync" and you will see the position in stellarium move a little. Then if you want the exact position just double click on object in stellarium again, in APT click on the object button again, whilst holding down the shift key, then click GoTo. Like I say that is my current method, Others may correct me with a better or quicker method. So no need to have scope connected in Stellarium at all in fact I do not open Stellarium Scope just Stellarium (ANGLE mode). Whether this is correct or not I am not sure so do not take this as a done thing Steve
  11. Serves me right for starting AP whilst living near the city centre.! I get better results the clearer the sky. Platesolving makes life easier and gives me more time for actual imaging. Louise
  12. Hey Carl, I set the dish up and tried an observation. This is my block diagram (electronics chain): Single linear polarization feed -> LNA -> LNA2 (in-line amp) -> 3m LMR-400 low-loss cable -> Bias Tee -> 1420 MHz Bandpass Filter -> RTL-SDR V3 -> 60cm USB extension cable -> Computer I observed for about 6 or 7 hours, with a not-so-proper-but-still-OK averaging (it takes about 5 minutes to go from the "noisy" spectrum curve to the averaged smooth spectrum curve, so you can kind of say that it averages over ~5 minutes). I uploaded the Observation on YouTube (I wrote a quick script that takes screenshots every minute for 6 hours and sticked the images together). I also recorded (unaveraged) Waterfall plots, in case I got a very high SNR and things were also visible in the Waterfall plot without averaging. Any idea why there is no (apparent) detection? I'll admit I was quite a bit optimistic this time with a 1.5m dish pointing to zenith, but I don't think I got anything... I have three suspicions: 1) The feed's monopole is misaligned - I set it perpendicular (90deg) to the grid bars, expecting ~100% efficiency (since the bars will act as a polarization filter, I turned it so I got the most out of what's reflected). If I've done this wrong I'm probably receiving nearly 0% of the incident waves. 2) The software can't extract the emission from noise without averaging for longer (not sure how long you've averaged for to get your results but I didn't expect I'd need over 5 minutes of integration time for a reasonably high-SNR detection). Perhaps I'll need to work with different software or write another GNU Radio flowgraph. 3) The primary LNA is not getting any power (I don't think that's the case cause my in-line is having a LED lit up, so it's definitely getting power - the question is if it forwards the DC voltage to the primary LNA, but I don't think that's the problem - wish all LNAs had an LED on them though, it'd be super helpful for knowing if they get power or not). Here is the YouTube video of the Observation: [to be edited once upload is complete] A few pictures of the setup:
  13. There were no details about when the first one is going to be, but they did say the timing was suspiciously good for the opening of the 2020 Olympics. They see supposed to be a display that can be enjoyed (relative term) over a distance of 200 miles. They did not say if that was radius or diameter!
  14. Thank you Steve! I only see one problem when SGP and PHD2 are running you can not lock on to the com port with Stellarium as its being used and by pressing connected in Stellarium it does nothing. If i shut down SGP then it will connect. So I guess i align it in Stellarium first with APT?
  15. Good comments on technique Dave. I find it's helpful to tell people to adjust the distance between the two barrels of the BV first by just holding it up to the eyes (with eyepieces) and adjusting it by looking at the bright circle of light you will see until both eyes can see this circle - with the BV not in the telescope at first, but pointing at the sky in the daytime. It's also best to start a little away from the eyepieces and slowly move your eyes towards them, many people put their eyes very close to the eyepieces straight away which makes it harder. Also, people can practice using their BV in the daytime to get used to it, pointing the scope to the horizon or as far away as you can to focus. I almost never use my BV on anything but the moon and planets, I also prefer a single wider field eyepiece with good eye relief for everything else. I forgive you for not being a lunar fan Dave - just!
  16. I am very new to all this but I platesolve just like in the video using APT and has revolutionised my sessions so much quicker and so accurate. Usually after polar aligning I will slew to my target take a short image (20 secs or so) platesolve it and it will be out a little but but then click on Sync you then see Stellarium update its position. You can then slew to the exact position you want to image and away you go. And the great thing is if you setup Stellarium with the camera and scope details it gives you an outline of the image on the screen so you can see exactly how your camera is rotated. Steve
  17. Thanks for the advice. Blue is next on my list, looking forward to see if it looks better than L. I'm getting a AT106 loaded with a moonlite focuser and high resolution stepper motor. A friend bought it for me in the US and he's bringing over in May when he's coming to London. Emil
  18. Thanks for comment. Newish, bought End Jan, but only used few times due to weather. I guess I could return. Odd thing is how it seems variable in extent, but always same position in image. I guess I don't want to return it only to find its something im doing wrong like tilt. If consensus is pinched optics I will return.
  19. I am at the very start of my Astro Imaging exciting journey and made a fair bit of progress last night. It was my first full night out with my new Imaging setup. Firstly I connected all the leads and balanced my scope. Played for about 45 minutes with Sharpcap to get my focus and setting right for my guide camera Altair Aor130 Succesfully Polar aligned another 1 hour (First time) Sharpcap showed it as Excellent within 00:00:10. (I nearly gave up) Run and setup PHD2 and Sequence Generator Pro with some help with setting off of youtube. Got my EFW 8 slot wheel working and mount control and Asi1600mm Pro. Spent 1.5 hours playing with it all to finally get it to work. Had a lot of problems with getting SGP to automatically starting PHD2 and guiding. Just said connecting constantly but fixed itself Added my Bahtinov mask and got HFR on my 10 second Lum frames between 0 and 3.0 (not sure this is good. Was around HFR 6.0 and 8.0 before Bahtinov focucing?) PHD2 Giuiding was smooth and was averaging 0.43 total less than 1 arc second. I have had my EQ6 Pro Modified. Tonight I will be out again as the skies look fantastic. But I need to align my scope to the stars. After Polar Aligning I tried to do a 1,2 and 3 star align on my Synscan controller but it always skewed the wrong way and I had to stop it twice as it got close to the tripod legs. I have the correct day, time, long and lat coords dialled in and daylight saving on. I was using ascom on my PC last night to control my scope from indoors. So the question is can I star align my scope another way after Polar alignment? If I used Astro Photography Tool and plate solved and then ran stellarium to fix the point as in this video would I be able to star align that way? Regards David
  20. ZWO developed rgb filters that are optimised for the cameras spectral response, meaning that R is wider than b which is wider than g. 1 s exposure for each filter should give the same adu count, when imaging a neutral source. If your filters are equally wide for each band, you should expose red and blue more than green. But since the galaxies have more detail in the blue region, it makes more sense to shoot more blue (longer exposures?). But if I were you, I'd check wether the blue master shows more detail than the L master in the outer regions. If that's so, consider adding blue to the L master. You'd need an awful lot of blue to make that work. Btw, great image so far. Good luck with what ever you decide on next. Which refractor will be coming your way in May?
  21. It almost has a feel of pinched optics!. is it new?.. can you return it
  22. My employer got so fed up with this option they now send all couriers away, even including work deliveries!!
  23. It staggers me with these delivery situations!. I now have everything delivered to work.
  24. Might be a strain on the arms with a heavy pair of binoculars and you have to beef up the construction using metal tubing instead of plastic. Plus, how would you adjust the focus ? Google "parallelogram binocular mount" for a better design.
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