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  2. Lurcher

    Kepler

    Good one Mike. I always think of Tycho when I think of bright ejecta rays, but Kepla is amazing too. Nice target to sketch and nicely done.
  3. I haven't used mine unguided - I use an OAG. Never considered a focal reducer - I have other scopes with shorter focal length and wider FOV.
  4. Thank you Mark. I can't wait to get out again. It already feels like it's been quite a while. Thanks again for your kind and positive comment.
  5. That doesn't look quite right for a wasp to me but it's too small for a hornet unless that's a huge glass.
  6. Very nice image. Cheers, Ian.
  7. I have yet to have a play with this scope now I have guiding working but it is on my list to try out. I had reasonable results from it unguided as is it a fair bit faster than other scopes I have at F5.26. I was wondering, is there any type of focal reducer available for these scopes or are we stuck at 1000mm. The only reducers I have are flatteners as well and too large. Alan
  8. Today
  9. There are several places available to use the spacers for aligning the fw... before the ff, which is the right place or between the ff and the camera/filterwheel, which of course is the wrong place. I assumed the OP is aware of that. A lot of options are available to rotate the camera without changing the ff distance. This: http://astrograph.net/Baader-T2-Quick-Change-Ring-/-Rotator-Kit is a great, but expensive solution
  10. I have the ED version of SW guide scope and that is 242mm, as he kindly answered a quest for me recently where I quoted the F/L it may have stuck in his mind, I must agree though the normal SW finder is smaller, maybe this is what is being used. Alan
  11. Paul, I think you underestimate the ambition of the Gregg's Board of Directors! I can see their next tagline... 'An astronaut flies on a custard slice'
  12. @noah4x4 thanks for the reply. will go ahead and uninstall stellarium and cartes du ceil from the tablet pc. will leave both on my phone for a quick goto guide. my next task is to make some aesthetics to CPWI. For exmple, would prefer it to run permanently windowed, to allow Bresser CamLabLite to run similarly. selecting targets and viewing will then be much easier. couple of questions: ■ does the Next remote always have to be run prior to CWPI - in order for the com ports to be configured? ■ or is there a way to write a config file for CWPI, so it "remembers" currently, my device manager shows > Eltima Virtual Port [Com 4] > Prolific USB to Serial Port [Com 5]
  13. CPWI is your best solution, and being realistic, all you need today. Stellarium or Cartes Du Ceil do have more sophisticated databases, but (no disrespect), you are not going to see the vast majority of the extra objects they include through your limited scope. My advice is don't waste money investing in accessories for it unless they can later be migrated to a higher quality GEM. Astrophotography on an Alt-Az is challenging; and a wedge can be frustrating; and the only other Alt-Az solution is Hyperstar. But I suspect your scope is not Fastar/Hyperstar compatible. It's a good beginners scope and will offer a lot of initial fun. But if smitten by astronomy, you will soon wish to upgrade.
  14. Great video - very exciting. I worry a bit that the Moon is going to be relegated to the equivalent of Exeter Services on a trip to Cornwall, but without the advantage of a Greggs.
  15. Oo, there is, isn't there? Now I'm gonna have to give it a try - as if I haven't got enough things on the list ...
  16. Yes it's motorized. I see concrete pouring in my future. The guy was also getting rid of a rack full of equipment so I scored a 9kHz to 22 GHz spectrum analyser (second hand probably worth what I paid for the dish), GPS disciplined reference, RF Switch / controllers, a down converter of some description, various network switches, and a couple of Custom PCs to run it all. So far a good deal I think, now I just need to remove the dish, now that is going to be an exercise!
  17. Thanks everyone, That's actually a good idea, the concrete costs isn't the biggest problem, but the adapter cost (Around 140€ for eq6), my budget is on limits, so any save if possible are always welcome. I may fix the adapter on the top and make it removable, if I want to upgrade out in future or if I want to go out of town. Thanks Tooth_dr I have to say this mention has changed my mind to making a column, my 1000mm tube comes in contact with legs at some point and making meridian flip cause me a lot of pain. I don't know how I missed that. Thank you Ed.
  18. Two points:- Point 1. OK with equation 78 when A and B are the sides of a right angle triangle. B is the hypotenuse. If A/B --> 0 then the angle theta tends to 90 degrees. Cos(90) = 0 and Sin(90) = 1 (angle in degrees) Seems to be a mix-up here, perhaps what was meant:- Lim ((sin(a)) ) / a --> 1 a --> 0 It is written like this because as the angle a=0, sin(a) = 0 and the division 0/0 is meaningless. When the angle is tends to 0 radians then a = sin(a). If A/B = sin(a) when a --> 0 then we can say the angle a in radians is a = A/B Point 2. One does not need to go through the above reasoning if one uses the definition that on a circle (radius r) the length of the arc (S) is S = r * a where a is the subtended angle at the centre of the circle. For very small angles the arc and chord may be taken to be of the same length. Distance to the star may be calculated from: r = S/a. Angle a may be measured by the large land based telescopes. I see no problems here. Re: You can measure the position of the star ie the centroid of the star image to much greater precision than the resolution. Yes of course. Good point. Jeremy
  19. It is a lovely scope but please note that it doesn't include in the box any accessories for visual use. At the very least I think you would need to buy the WO Rotolock Visual Back Adapter. I think you would be best to check with the retailer to confirm that you will be able to use your existing diagonal, eyepieces etc. (if any?), or which visual accessories are compatible with it.
  20. The recent Friday session I finally managed to fit in that showed no drift after releasing the directional buttons I think tells me that previously either something was not battened down or my balance was off, but the fact it happened four times in a row while getting progressively worse and now it seems fine, even with the extra caution Friday given to the setup, just has me baffled. If I never see it again I'll be happy, but it will bug me for a long time to come. I will have to check on the settings for backlash hopefully Tuesday night with a bit of lucky clear weather. All these settings (backlash,etc.) are new to me, as well as the Guide Assistant recommendations, which I never noticed after it finished it's routine. I just assumed it would take care of those by itself (pretty sure you knew who you were dealing with here from the start but this is more proof how new I am at to this). As to that silly business of deleting M3 and M57 subs, I never emptied the recycle bin, did not even send the subs there, I just looked there for them but they were not to be found, nor anywhere else. I can't even recall how I lost them. I thought I had separated everything into folders but after checking each sub of M51 I moved on to check M3 and M57 but the folders had vanished. Maybe I should have been a magician! As to that nuke crack, why are you using Chinese Huawei technology after all the [removed word] they've stirred up, both the country and the company? And you can't fool me, any N. Korean missile fired in this direction, if it ever got off the launch pad, would no doubt land closer to Japan than Canada. Re guiding: My experience with noticeably improved guiding Friday night after using Guide Assist was an eye opener. I did not know how necessary it was in my case, and I will use it for each new target in future. Guidescope: You will have noticed the SW scope I am using for imaging. I don't know if you've seen it, but the metal wedge mount for the guidescope is dovetailed to fit the metal Orion guidescope base and secured by a single, strong screw. I went over it thoroughly on Friday during setup and it is very solid. I can't vouch for materials or design used in these two areas in the past which may possibly be the source of the questionable reputation, but I work as an industrial millwright, and while the technical side is not my strong suit (you will have noticed, haha), I really do know a strong, mechanical connection when I see one, so while I don't rule it out entirely as as contributing to my problem, it is the least of my worries. If my drifting had occurred on just one night, or on a couple of separate nights, I might perhaps suspect that the dew heater I use on the guidescope had caught up on something and pulled on the guidscope, but four sessions in a row blows that up. Tuesday night (hopefully) I will follow all the Guide Assist recommendations and briefly test-image several more widely separated objects, and pass on any bad sub examples and the log. I hate to say it for your sake but I hope all my troubles over those four nights were an anomaly that I'll never see again and I've just wasted your time. If that is the case, hopefully the compensation on your part will be that I know a fair bit more about what I'm doing than I did before all this happened, which will no doubt improve my images, and you've shown yourself to be very selfless with your time. But first things first.
  21. Yes. That did it. Thanks for your assistance.
  22. Haha just got in myself been looking at moon again
  23. The 2nd and 3rd pics look good to my untrained eyes. I like the perspective of the 3rd one. It has some nice depth. Nicely done. (Just got in from showing my son Jupiter for the first time. I know it's 3am... He's nearly 20 though...)
  24. Thanks James, there was no sting visible, don’t know if that makes any difference?
  25. Yesterday
  26. Absolutely cracking image! Very crisp and detailed. Excellent work Reggie
  27. Last week, I didn't know what else to shoot with my Samyang 135mm f2 lens and I remembered that I had a RGB photo of the Cygnus region shot with a 50mm f1.8 lens. I decided to try and shoot some Ha with the same lens to see if there's an improvement. Very glad I did. I really like the outcome. I hope you like it too. RGB - 10x600sec ISO800, IDAS LPS-D1 CLIP filter Ha - 36x300sec ISO1600, Astronomik 6nm Ha clip in filter Emil
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