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  2. Thanks Stuart Rodd
  3. Wow! Talk about maximising your potential space! Can you play the accordion?
  4. Looking at the slight blip you have, I am not sure if it is even anything to worry about.... Others with more experience may be able to comment further.
  5. Dew can occur quite quickly even on the primary and more on the secondary, fit a brushless pc fan on the rear end to either blow air up the tube or a fan to draw air down and have a secondary mirror heater, as I find that dew forms quickly on even my primary without the fan running and normally any dew% above 95% on the scale has a massive effect in ruining any images I get. but it's part of the newt learning process. my sct suffers even more than that tho. Ton
  6. So another scope that's semi big but portable is the 6 inch sct. It may be a bit better than 5 mak cause its 1 inch bigger so you will see more. The mak also has a smaller field of view so the sct may be a better all around scope. U can also bring it on planes as it just fit on carry one. It weights 6 lbs. U can also use a eq2 for lighter packages since it's so light for the weight Joejaguar
  7. I’m a handful of months into this hobby, and I’m considering upgrading my simply 70/500 frac to a 100mm doublet. I am struggling with what scope to get though. The two finalist are the TS 102 f7 and the SW 100ED f9. What I am trying to grasp is the subtle differences between these two. I understand the basics, and the pros and cons with, say a f5 vs f15, but how about f7 vs f9? The 100ED is 187mm longer than the TS102, but actually almost a full kg lighter (3 kg vs 4 kg). Would both be okay on a az-3 mount? The 187 extra mm on the 100ED might not be a problem because it is lighter? Does any graphs exist that explain the relationship between CA, SA, coma, astigmatism etc and focal ration? What is the drop off point in a doublet? Or is f7 and f9 close enough that only a truly experienced observer will notice the difference?
  8. I timed it to be almost exactly 10 minutes and 40 seconds... Is this something that one can get parts for? If so, do you know where? Is it normal for these gears to get damaged over time, or would it be more likely for it to be dirt/grit, as Mark suggests?
  9. I do as a rule, but I've not been able to find any printer control software for Linux that I get on with yet. I did try Repetier Host, but the Linux version really just seems to be the Windows version running under Mono and was a bit of a mess when I tried it. James
  10. Hello Mike, welcome to the lounge. Rick
  11. Ok old topic but these little scopes dont die!! WO66 SD doublet APO in burnt orange. I want to attach a Canon SL2 I have an SCT adaptor and the T-ring for the Canon but I can't find a field flattener. I'm just starting out in astrophotography. I've had the little scope for a long time and have a little celestron goto mount. I want to start with some light work first like the moon and progress from there. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I've read alot of people having problems making something work.
  12. No the Primary is all the say down the tube the Secondary however is very given to collecting dew.
  13. Note it is very important to accurately remove the sky background before attempting to measure the instrument response otherwise it will not work on other spectra. Other tips:- Turn the image gain up to make sure you select the whole height of the spectrum when binning and that the sky background does not contain any of the measured spectrum or any other background stars or spectra. Smooth the published spectrum first to approximately match the resolution of the measured spectrum (ie make the Balmer lines look similarly wide so they divide out more accurately.) Remove any remaining artifacts from dividing the spectrum lines but not other features that are actually in the instrument response Do not over smooth the result. In particular, make sure it fits well at the blue end. If it does not your spectrum will rapidly shoot off either high or low. When you have the instrument response,use it to correct the spectrum you produced it from. The result should of course closely match the published spectrum. If it does not, investigate why it is wrong
  14. very cloudy here thismorrning but after looking on gong and seeing the bright prom I thought id have a go at catching through the thinner bits of cloud and I just about got it if a bit noisy. kit starwave 102, quark, asi120mc. thanks for looking. clear skys. charl. prom lower oncoming limb.
  15. Hi BLINKY, see the answer from alexwolf, and he did insert already a link " see below ", in that link you will find a google drive link where you can find the installation file. https://github.com/Stellarium/stellarium/issues/406 Works for me !! Cheers Martin
  16. If its the Rowan belt mod then the ratio should remain the same. Could it be grit or dirt in one of the gears? I would strip it down, give it a good clean and try again.
  17. If the hardware is that old, then I wouldn't bother updating, as I suspect Win 10 will get upset & screw up the install & run very badly..... If you need Windows, on that hardware, then virtualise it & run it as a virtual under Linux.
  18. Yes, I have the Win10 upgrade downloaded, but I've not bothered to install it on the machine in question because it only rarely gets booted into Windows at all (just when I want to run the 3d printer, really). Most of the rest of the time it's running Linux. James
  19. And here is an example specifically for a colour camera using a Star Analyser http://www.threehillsobservatory.co.uk/astro/spectroscopy_11a.htm Cheers Robin
  20. Great mods, giving me some ideas. Where did you source the azimuth setting circle?
  21. Sounds just what I’m looking for, how do I download/install? Do I need to compile myself?
  22. Thanks for the details Andy! Bortle 4 is definitely helping you here, allowing you to easily capture fainter objects (e.g. galaxies) and nebulosity. The CLS filter will skew colours a little, as it removes part of the spectrum. Yellows are usually impacted once the image is properly color balanced (usually yielding foreground starfields that have a distinct lack of yellow stars). It's not the end of the world, just something to be mindful of. If you're using a 600D, ISO 800 seems to be recommended. For a 6D, it's 1600 or 3200 (source). As far as ST goes, if you want to reduce the Saturation, in the Color module use the slider named... Saturation If you'd like to switch color rendering from scientifically useful Color Constancy to something PI/PS/GIMP users are more used to (e.g. desaturated highlights), try the "Legacy" preset. Finally, a maintenance release update for 1.5 was released a couple of days ago with some bug fixes. Updating is highly recommended. And if you feel adventurous, you can also try the 1.6 alpha, which comes with an upgraded signal quality-aware multi-scale (wavelet) sharpener. Clear skies!
  23. Um, are you still running Win 7, then? I thought it was no longer supported? I can't remember Win 7 doing auto updates and reboots like Win 10 does? I may have just forgotten - it was so long ago! Louise
  24. Uncoperative weather to say the least.. Not used it enough to form a real opinion. Seems very good but only glimpses between the clouds.
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