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  2. Welcome James There is a Dorset group on SGL and we get together to observe/image from time to time. There are also a couple of local clubs if you are interested in attending. Whereabouts are you based? Clear skies Peter
  3. I have the CGEM and I'm very happy with it... much more managable... much cheaper.... great mount, even for astrophotography upto 2000mm FL. Look at the CGX-L mount if you're wanting to spend that sort of money... if I'd be looking at upgrading, this is the mount I'd be looking at.
  4. That's essentially what I did with my previous obsy. I used a plastic DPC as a skirt running from under the lower shiplap and down over the sleeper.
  5. I would add a yes to this, I've had mine for a year and have been using it with a William Optics Z73 to great effect. I think it is hard to beat in terms of performance vs. weight vs. cost, if you are looking for a portable or beginner mount, as I was. You can see images from the setup from the Astrobin link in my signature...most of the pictures are with the CEM25P. Autoguiding is a must, though, 45 seconds was the most I could bear unguided, although I've seen some people get amazing results with 2 minute subs. Seems robust - used it in winter temperatures of -5C and also took it with me to Mauritius last year (I live in the UK).
  6. If you click the N, S, E, W or Z in the bottom right of CdC it will always switch to AZ mode and require manual switching back to EQ. It's my biggest irritation in this otherwise awesome program.
  7. oops, I meant I apply the MLT at linear stage, not non-linear. Will amend my post above
  8. Hey cool, thanks for the reply. I just pulled the trigger on it! Got any photos of or from your setup?
  9. I've been getting decent results with Straton recently, I use it for tonemap combining narrowband images. I think the key is to use Straton to produce the stars, then subtract the stars from the image in PI or PS. It's a bit long-winded though. Here's what I do, from memory since I'm at work and don't have a Straton screen in front of me: - works in both linear and non-linear - open the image in straton - open the same image again, as the reference image - set the stretch slider to suit so you can see what you're doing, think it's top-middle ? - there's a slider bottom right that I think goes from remove more stars to preserve more nebula, or something like that ? Set it all the way to the right. - in the menu, remove stars from the image - then zoom in a couple of times and go all over the image looking for stars it's missed, you can remove them manually, I think there's a clickable tool for that, or is it alt+click on the star ? Might have to do it 2-3 times on stubborn stars. The undo tool doesn't work, just makes a mess. - once done, there's a menu option that says something like 'subtract image from reference image' - do that, and you'll just get the stars and nothing else - save it and close Straton, then load that star file in PI or PS or whatever. - zoom in again, looking this time for anything that looks like it's not a star, comparing to the raw image will help, and clone-stamp it out, prevents bright bits of nebula getting removed - once done, you can then subtract that star image from the raw image in PI or PS. Key is that 100% subtraction seems to over-do it. So in PI, use pixelmath and do something like '$T-0.995 * star_image', or I guess in PS you would add the star image as a new layer, blend mode subtract, and opacity 0.995. Tweak that 0.995 parameter to suit, too low a parameter will leave lighter bumps where the stars were, too high will leave dark bumps, get it just right and they'll disappear. - you might have issues cleanly removing really bright stars, halos or newt diffraction spikes.
  10. I didn't know about the Microsoft option - I've been trying mirrorop (not necessarily foc).
  11. I thought I’d share this from last time I stripped it lol Every time I always swear it will be the last time
  12. Now I wonder if that happened to me, on Monday! I had to skew towards CdC's Neptune to find the Sun - rather than just to the SW of the big orange thing in the sky.
  13. I've tried to lighten it a bit Dave @Davey-T, using your suggested technique
  14. Thats exactly why I asked tgem if they will sell the neq6 or eq6r, they have a higher capacity
  15. I dont really have money for a long focal lenght and fast refractor..thats why I am looking at newton, but I found a 6" RC now for like 400$.
  16. I am considering just shipping mine off to darkframe optics when the time for it comes..
  17. You should be able to do it, though of course depends on the individual components you have. I managed it with a similar setup and although there isn't much space to play with, it can be done. You will need a fairly low profile OAG, the one I have is only 16mm thick and the coma corrector will need to be inserted into the focus tube. Steve
  18. Hello from Dorset, I have been following SGL for a little while now but have finally created an account. I've been interested in astronomy since I was a child, however I can now dedicate more time (more, but not enough) and some money (definitely not enough) to the hobby I am hoping to take it to the next level. I am interested in astrophotography and have started to collate an imaging rig and have completed a few nights of imaging with some beginner success. I am really looking forward to my astro journey and hope to learn a lot from the community here. James
  19. Sorry about the late reply, just been bogged down with a lot of work this morning. I completely agree with everything that @Jkulin, @ollypenrice & @pete_l had to say. I'm just trying to make sure i am going to be making the right decision but i do also know that we all have different experiences with the products we get in the end. Some are good and some are just painstakingly bad but before i embarked on the research journey, i've heard nothing but good stuff about their latest CEM60's and CEM60EC's .... but in my eyes it's always good to know about the potential issues rather than not knowing which might lead you down the rabbit hole. I shall soon be pulling the trigger ... soon
  20. I have also on top of this added SGP and that indeed connects to scope fine Problems I have still. 1) Slew in APT using arrow keys is super slow not usable even if i change slew settings or even comes up with slew error! I don't really need this as I can use the ascom arrow keys on mode 4 which is set to 800 and works fine. However if I use goto in APT to a set location, Object or coordinate it slews perfect 2) Blind plate solve will not work for me in APT (ASPS) but platesolve 2 does but needs rough coordinates to be able to solve. The are three ways I found around this. 2a) Take RA and Dec off of Stellarium from target if synched. 2b) upload a shoot picture in APT and upload it to Astrometry.net and get the results and add them to APT. 3c) MY favourite way. Take a Capture of stars in APT open in SGP and blind solve (which works) and put coords in apt and normal solve. I have spent days trying to get ASPS working in APT. Extensive communication with author of program along with Admins on APT forums. They all gave up! I seem to have a .dll violation error that can't be fixed even by a reinstall. I have tried everything under the sun (forgive the pun) to get it to work. But open to suggestions. The actual error is log file can't be created.. Kindest regards David
  21. Sorry yes you're right, this was Lobster Claw nebula. I have now amended the topic Super useful on the processing technique, have saved it now and will put this in to action on a new target
  22. The first time I did mine I think it took about 2 hours. It was surprisingly straight forward and after not being happy with a few things managed to refit in just under an hour. It's the setting up of the worm gears/backlash that really takes the time. There was a member on here that put his videos of fitting the mod on youtube. I found it hand to watch first but Its also handy if you can have a laptop to hand in case you get a bit stuck.
  23. I cannot get close to the theoretical values we discussed in another thread, so I wonder how meteoblue are calculating the seeing values, in particular for urban/suburban areas where it is almost certainly far worse than projected. For my setup i should be able to get some subs around 2" fwhm but I have never seen a single one < 3.5" long or short... Mauna kea looks good though, seeing projected circa 0.15"!
  24. Now I need to work out how to vent the warm air to the atmosphere whilst stopping rain coming in when the fan isn't running. I'm thinking a cone to direct the air into the dome via the camera and out round the edge of the dome and an outer cone (maybe the cone shaped top of the casing with a smaller cone inside. With just the 30x30mm TEC and air cooling albeit blown by a fan, I think the cooling may not be enough. I could use a double stacked Peltier TEC cooler using the TEC1-12706. This would take more power than water cooling but provides warm air for dew prevention. If I use water cooling I would need to add a heater which seems daft. Plus the air cooled system might not be much less efficient once dew heating is taken into account.
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