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  2. take the mount apart , I can drive a car it dont mean I'm a mechanic lol let's hope I dont need to do that for a while.
  3. I use a Mini-Giro mount with a Velbon Geo N543D tripod. Works nicely for both my APM 80mm F/6 and Coronado SolarMax-II 60mm. It even supports double-mounting them.
  4. If these are for public use not your own then I think cheaper is better. If it has to be UWA then Nirvanas or whatever appears on the second hand market at a reasonable price. If you change your mind and want something better for your own use, perhaps push the boat out a bit and look at the Baader Morpheus range.
  5. I met Jon (parallaxer) at Kettering earlier this year, where he bought his scope. The scope looked delicious, and he said he'd post his views on its performance but as yet he hasn't made any comment as far as I'm aware. Perhaps you should send him a pm to find out how he feels about it?
  6. Thanks, i havent tried it. Will give it ago later today. I had to heavily crop image due to calibration issues. The data was combinations of work from Feb to May
  7. Great modification, I too use a RA camera viewfinder on my polarscope (never understood why mounts like the SA dont offer them as an option) and that combined with a DSLR with a flip out screen means the whole thing only needs to be a foot or so off the ground. I will have to scout around for a tripod to chop up.... Alan
  8. Thanks for the comment Olly. I was quite surprised about how much blue, presumably emanating from the blue reflection nebula, the object contained. In the renditions I have seen, I could only detect this weakly, so here I was attempting to emphasis its presence. Overall, a very interesting object consisting of the emission, reflection and dark nebula - as you have pointed out above, the latter is very dark indeed. Alan
  9. Looks to be a pretty tidy 1st go at the triplet. Why choose 70second subs? I’m new to the dark side so thoroughly confused by how to choose sub lengths for different targets. Paul
  10. Hi Lars, It is a poor engineering design which is trying to bend the tines of a rigid fork inwards to achieve enough friction. Your idea of increasing friction with alternative materials seems very sensible. Plastic would tend to compress under load. So metal shims [spacing washers] make better sense. The less the tines have to bend inwards the larger will be the friction area. Harder shims [washers] and a close fit will reduce the tines being forced inwards when tightened. There is the risk of causing damage by forcing the tines apart while trying to get metal shims in. They need to fit well rather than spreading the fork tines apart. So the thickness of the shims is quite critical. Similar metals have higher friction when rubbed together. So aluminium might be a good choice for the spacing washers.
  11. Nice repot John. Also, good to see the Delos working well. I’m slowly coming to the conclusion that I’ll have to go back to the Delos range. The ES 82°‘s, while very good indeed, don’t quite cut it at f4. Shame, as they are about 1/2 the price of the Delos range.. Paul
  12. Today
  13. That is good going, but he does put the effort in. Unlikely to be a “point scope, quick glance, there it is” type of observation. Guessing that he was away from home, somewhere dark. It is a nice little group of fuzzies with a SN thrown in as a bonus. Paul
  14. So after posting on Monday guaranteed 1pm next day but absolutely no tracking details for 24hours it has all of a sudden reached Exeter No my slight panic is over I could do with some info re settings to get me just up and running. No LRGB filters yet just a 1.25” CLS CCD, APT and DSS. I’m sure there’s a wealth of information out there but need a dummies guide to mono imaging . With the dslr I knew what was what but this is a different beast !
  15. Mine neither, and it's the latest version. I drilled a tiny hole in the centre of the cover to avoid a vacuum when removing it. It really is a tight fit.
  16. Hi. Guessing; DEC is sticking. The ASIair uses an edited version of PHD2 so you may have to ask ASI about the software side but if available, increasing the DEC aggression and lowering its minimum move may improve the DEC stiction and overshoot but sooner or later you're gonna have to dismantle DEC, lubricate and get it moving freely. HTH
  17. Your RA trace is 'reasonable' but to me needs some adjustments to your scope's balance, PA etc. Can't tell from your post images what guider settings your using so any comments are guesswork.
  18. I will look out for the defects on the stars as and when I get to use it, weather here is far from good at the moment, though 26 degrees yesterday mid afternoon we had a carpet of white hale covering the garden, thought the windows were coming in. I no it was unguided work but I can't see any problems like that but maybe the exposure is not long enough, mine was and is such a good visual scope, almost APO good. Alan
  19. What you are showing is all kinds of strange and you aren't giving enough info for anyone to really help. Personally, I don't think these all in one devices are suitable for beginners because they tend to work or don't and getting logs and reading them are at times challenging. With the bog standard computer with PHD2 and something like SGP on the surface is harder to setup but getting logs is a lot easier too. Your DEC is essentially doing it's own thing. Your RA is hovering around -2" when it should be around 0". I'd almost guess that your DEC and RA are switched around. What guide settings did you use and did you calibrate the guide camera? Did you calibrate then move the guide camera position?
  20. Polaris is the worst star in the sky to sync on with an EQ mount as it's so close to the celestial pole that with a small polar alignment error of less than 1 degree the scopes RA could be any random value when polaris is centred. Also it could easily hit a meridian limit if the dec tries to go through 90 degrees and a meridian flip is needed. Moving in RA to try and centre polaris may also try to drive past the meridian and cause a limit error. CdC could well refuse to sync when the Dec is close to 90 degrees as it would cause more problems than it solves. Chose objects less than around 45 deg Dec to sync on for alignment purposes and you and CdC should be happy. Alan
  21. Going from memory here but I had a similar issue and it was down to the scopes position being so far off from where the software thought it was that it wouldn't allow a sync. My method for getting around it was to reset everything, put the mount manually to the home position, then power off and restart EQMod. Do my first sync close to home position and then go from there. Was a pain but in fairness only happened when I hadn't parked properly the previous night. Heres another thread that describes the process a little better perhaps -
  22. Well tonight was one of those "Right its all going on eBay" nights.... I managed to eventually setup a VM on my server running Ubuntu and after a lot of tweaking got the Astrometry-api-lite setup installed giving me a fully working astrometry clone on the network. Setup the gear, tinkered to get the solving working for quite some time but it did work, so Pi running INDI, Server VM running astrometry and my Windows machine running Kstars/EKOS... Guiding was better tonight, didn't need to bin either which was weird and good. Got focuser to operate, still need to get to grips with the autofocus system (I think this is more a problem with backlash on my setup) - got the mount aligned after a few attempts and a few hard resets. Went for an imaging run as a test, and after the first sub came in Kstars/EKOS just dissapeared. It's done this before, but always waits until everything is working as it should. So since its 1am and the clouds have rolled in I decided packing up was the best thing to do until I cool down a little.
  23. Hi all I feel like I have taken a massive leap forward tonight 🥳 , but I dont know how to improve the guiding to make it a bit smoother . As you can see a few spikes lol. Eq5 pro goto ASIair eqmod if that helps. Thanks Si
  24. Oooh! Okay, glad the relay's now operating. Yes there is a connection via the diode from 12V- (lets call it 0V or Gnd as that's what it is in reality) terminal to NC1, NO2 and NO4. But notice the diode is connected in reverse. The arrow on the diode symbol indicates the current flow direction when it conducts, so the left hand end of the diode (anode) has to be more positive than the right hand end (cathode) in order to conduct current. As the anode is connected to 0V it will only conduct if the cathode goes more negative than 0V which it can't do in normal operation. So in normal operation the diode is effectively not there and is an open circuit. The only purpose of the diode is to suppress any negative voltage spikes generated by the motor when the motor is turned off. If you follow the diagram the diode is actually connected across the motor terminals. It's an unwanted side-effect of suddenly removing the power from large value inductors which is what the motor is, in effect. NC1, NO2 and NO4 are connected to +12V when relay 4 operates to supply power to the motor. Relays 1 and 2 control the motor direction. To satisfy my curiosity and to test my initial thought as to whether it works like the ELK-924 with a separate + or - trigger. Remove the resistor from the IN+ terminal, but don't connect the IN+ to +12V. Just leave IN+ disconnected. Connect the 12V to the DC+ and DC- of the relay board as you've done and just touch IN- to ground (DC-) and see if the relay clicks again. If it does we don't have to worry about external resistors or any connections to IN+. The fact that your latest test drops 8V across the external 5k resistor implies that the on-board resistor is only around 1k2. If IN+ is connected directly to 12V then 8mA would flow through the opto LED, which isn't a problem as they will work with a wide range of currents. With your 5k resistor in circuit the LED is only carrying 0.89mA but it is still working enough to trigger the relay. It's possible the IN+ is intended to be connected to 5V logic switching if required rather than 12V. The LED would only carry 2.5mA if IN+ was from 5V which would work nicely. Do the test in my previous paragraph to see if it mimics the ELK-924 which will solve a lot of problems and report back. Alan
  25. The attached image is credit to my scope and the amazing power of StarTools. It's the result of just over 12 minutes worth of 25 second subs captured from my severely light polluted back garden, stacked in Deep Sky Stacker, (with darks but no flats), and processed in StarTools. Given the short total exposure time and the light polluted conditions I'm again amazed it came out as well as it did. Scope is the Skywatcher 250PDS and the camera is a Canon Rebel XS, (1000D).
  26. AWESOMES... SkySync shall be back in business.....
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