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  2. Yes, a piece of aluminium plate off eBay (I think) and a spare Skywatcher small dovetail with some suitable bolts and countersunk set screws. Wasn't too expensive.
  3. No I'm using my 300mm F4 prime lens for the time being.
  4. Do you have a small telescope? It would be easier to mount the camera on that and the small scope can be used as the guide scope. Lots of telescopes come with a camera screw attached to them. Carole
  5. Should be able to see it. As Stu said, it would just be an extremely small black dot. We're fortunate here in the US that it happens to fall on a major holiday, Veteran's Day. Our club is actually doing an event in association with the North Carolina State Park Service at one of the nearby historical forts, where they'll be having other activities throughout the day. It's going to be a busy morning for us.
  6. It reminds me of the 2" nose peice which screws into my Skywatcher reducer. Except it's blue. Compare with the left-most adapter shown in the following picture.
  7. Designed a printed thermal jacket for the camera with space for the USB plug and cable. This is either part of the casing or the outer casing could be separate, probably the former. I have not modelled the USB cable & plug but made space for it from measurements.
  8. It’s a 8 inch, Edge HD, 16 inches in length. Floor to tip of shutter is roughly 2500 mm, I’m 5’11 and feel like I’m inside the Tardis. Though if I did this again, I would probably go with the 2.7 dome, I believe the door opening is slightly higher. I’ve lost count on how many times I’ve scraped my back on the underside of the door opening. Have you ever accidentally bumped the tripod legs and lost your polar alignment? Ben
  9. Hi Trying to get some ideas on how I can mount both my DSLR (lens has arca swiss foot) and 60mm guide scope to my EQ5 Synscan. Photos/ideas would be great please. Thanks Andy
  10. Welcome from one new member to another,but I am from South Yorks all the best Ford52
  11. Did you make the mounting plate yourself? That's kinda of the way I'm thinking of going.
  12. That diagram means absolutely nothing in my experience. I get better results if I interpret it the other way..
  13. I hear what you're saying but think about this... Many people don't have the confidence to modify their DSLRs letalone add cooling to them. I'd give it a go and could probably do a good job if it was with a very cheap DSLR where no real loss was discerned. I repair computers for a living and can completely dismantle a laptop and rebuild it if I wanted to but even with that skillset I wouldn't want to modify a DSLR. There's also the risk of introducing dust throughout the camera when it's pulled apart, I'm guessing PrimaLuce Labs have quite well controlled environments in consideration to this. Many people also don't have the knowledge as to how to add cooling systems to DSLRs, I don't, and as I said I own two computer repair businesses and I haven't got a clue how I'd go about it... I guess I could look at tutorials, if they're available somewhere and follow the steps) but most people just want to buy something that works off the shelf without having to become essentially, an engineer. I was giving serious consideration to this camera last night but ultimately decided that I'll be progressing onto a dedicated astronomy camera from my DSLR instead. But if I was getting into astrophotography, like I did around two years ago, I think I'd most definitely be buying this camera for the asking price. It's modified, it's got cooling, and the 700D is a terrific camera, my first DSLR was the 700D so I know it well. There's the ability to use without a laptop, attach whatever scopes and lenses you want, add clip in filters etc. tilt screen, good sensor, I think it's great value personally, especially to someone who wants that convenience or someone starting out with astrophotography who doesn't understand how CCDs / dedicated astro cameras work and just wants to build their way up in the hobby. It's absolutely fantastic for that imho.
  14. On a Dob, I personally think using their Nexus via Sky Safari is better rather than the DSC. You then don’t need to type in coordinates, just push the dob to a target that’s visible on the screen.
  15. So look at the moon then. I know how you really love it. up now but hopefully clear at Galloway.
  16. A fair offer is just that, but trying to convince someone who doesn't know the market that it should be worth what they think, is another thing...
  17. I'm away at the moment but glad the thread is being useful to other's. It'll take me time to filter through all the advice given here so far but thanks all, keep it up.
  18. £450.00 was a very fair offer, the risk is with the buyer not the seller.........Henry B.
  19. Thanks @Scoot, that's very helpful. I'm just waiting on John's and Stu's feedback about the AZ100 in addition to seeing it in the flesh as SGLSP19 in a few weeks time before I make a decision. If I go that way, it'll be a while before I can afford it so will be looking at mid to late next year for the Dob encoder upgrade. I may need to get the official OO UK rings and base fittings rather than my hacked approach using SW rings and washers as shims to make it fit properly but the doc you provided will give me an idea of whether I can make it work. Thanks again, Ade
  20. I'm on Facebook and use several groups but don't like the format either. Need it to keep in touch though.
  21. Thank you Alan. I like imaging these larger areas in one pass with the 135mm + 1600. I know you trade detail for wide FoV but sometimes you are not really able to appreciate just how big some of these objects are and I like to see them set in their surrounding space. Adrian
  22. It moves the scope around in random movements during a set amount of frames. This helps the processing software remove bad pixels, pattern noise and man made streaks in the image. So it kind of makes the stuff that should not be there dance around and easier to be spotted and removed. As you would need to take dark frames at the same time you image with the dslr it might mean that the time spent capturing darks could be spent capturing more light frames.
  23. Not getting into "is it worth it" debate and I just want to point out that there is rather effective mechanism to actually test if something is worth asking price. It's a bit time consuming, but works: OP should offer it at said price and wait some time - if item is purchased, then it is worth to someone that amount, if not, OP should decide when and by how much to lower the price. Repeat the process until item is sold.
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