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  2. Hi Olly Noise reduction mostly, I'm getting a little bit of colour mottle in processing - nothing major at all but thought if I'd be able to increase the quality slightly I wouldn't mind losing some field of view since I'm using a 135mm lens. I'm using a polemaster for PA, I've cycled through subs and noticed the stars drift back and forth along the RA between images, periodic error I'm guessing? Probably not much more than a star width or two though. While I was searching the forum I found posts stating around a 15 pixel dither while using a dslr for the best effect? I suppose it's one of those trial and error things and finding what works best for you and your equipment! Shame I couldn't do it automatically with the Star Adventurer but while I'm at dark skies I'll be with the mount anyway! Mark
  3. Thank you for your kind words, I’m really pleased with this so far and it amazes me how much detail can be pulled out of the data since the histogram was so far to the left it was unbelievable. I’m struggling to accept that all the data is contained within the left quadrant of the histogram as it goes against all my previous photographic experience (expose to the right). At lease noise is better under control in these subs over higher gain and longer exposure times with a more centralised data histogram. Yes, my task for this evening is to capture the DARKS, FLATS & BIAS subs. Being the TEC version of the camera I shouldn’t have any difficulty in capturing these. I don’t know how people capture their DARKS at the time of shooting their LIGHTS. By the time my LIGHTS were finished I was ready for bed with work the next day. Obviously the camera is still on the telescope for the FLATS. I’ll post an updated ‘final’ image this evening.
  4. And did I understand it correctly, 35mm extension tube is needed for DSLR even if FF is used?
  5. What kind of star trails did you get though please? Did you get any seagull shapes?
  6. Hi Rick Thanks for your response Yeah the lens really deserves a medium format dslr or, better still, a full frame cooled astro cam, neither of which I can afford. APS-C will have to do! At the same time, at F4, it would be a great lens for EAA. I don't think there is much demand for long vintage medium format lenses as they are too heavy for the handheld market. But they seem great for astro! Louise
  7. Thanks for you input @Ricochet. It appeared that the secondary was not perfect so making the star elongated. I was aware of the offset but it was the actual secondary mirrors position using the cheshire although this was make easier using my sight cap only. I eventually stripped it back and took my time. To make things easier I connected my handset to the mount to ensure the star was central and things really do look much better. I tried to run a full test last night but after rebooting 6 times and it being 1am before platesolve started to work I gave up without a single frame. Looking at the platesolve images things are looking okay.
  8. Great picture. Very difficult to tease out the colour on this subject, there is not a lot there but you've done it great. For sure, my next camera will be a CMOS.
  9. Yep, that's the one in my shot John, I think!
  10. I have had the 10x50 variant for a few years. Excellent performance for the money. Yes I paid full price. Double todays offer.
  11. Here is a link to the video. This is good if you wish to explore the theory a bit further.
  12. I have just been reading through some targets you sent me in Canes Venatici and lo and behold you done a report. I keep going back to this constellation for M51 to see if I can get a glimpse through my scopes.(No luck yet) I see that 8" is performing brilliant again. Rain here massive thunderstorm about 6pm then sun come out then back to thick cloud and rain.
  13. Absolutely. I'm just trying to get my head around what sort of trails could occur if there's no tracking in DEC and the only possible errors are polar alignment and RA periodic error. James
  14. I rechecked PA with the camera on, Polaris was still within the ring which shows the tripod hadn't shifted. It was just a rough polar alignment though, straight trails wouldn't have concerned me. I doubt my polar alignment was good enough for 5 minutes at 135mm pointing south, but the longer exposure makes it easier to see any misbehaviour from the mount.
  15. Last week week when there was a prominent sunspot group on the solar disc, this was easily visible through my Lunt 8 x 32 Sunoculars. John
  16. Looking for an 8" Dobsonian - presumably Skyliner 200P or SkyQuest XT8 - in gently-used condition. Don't need eyepieces, as I have several Orion Plossls. Located in Leeds and can drive to pick up.
  17. Just to emphasise this point, this picture was taken with a 50mm Spotting scope fitted with Baader Solar film, and using x30 magnification. I suspect your problem has been the lack of activity ie nothing to see! Keep an eye on SGL and also the apps which the guys have posted and try again when there is a good sized spot visible. I enjoy using a 4" refractor with a Herschel Wedge and find it gives excellent detail when conditions are good. I use a binoviewer in it as it helps reduce the impact of floaters which I suffer from, and also allows more relaxed viewing.
  18. Hi James - If it is a serious error and the drive wheel is a little eccentric then there may be a speed variation causing the brighter patches...?
  19. Hi guys What type of Grease would I use for a strip and refurbishment of my Eq6 pro. There is a couple of tubs of geoptik Grease you can buy but at 18 quid pop its a bit on the expensive side. Like any thing astro twice the price. I did it a couple of years ago and it is very stiff just wondering if I used the wrong grease but this time I'm going to fit a belt drive. Regards Solarboy
  20. Steve, I already investigated this very topic. What I found out from pictures on the web is, that the SW-extension on the tripod and the AZ-mount head will fit together. The SW extension on the iOptron tripod will probably not match. The SW tripod has a center recessed hole and into that hole (3cm diameter?!) the counterpart of the SW-extension fits. The iOptron tripod has a flat surface, which will make using the SW-extension on the tripod incompatible. regards Michael
  21. Given that only the RA axis is driven, if there's periodic error and that's the only problem, shouldn't the trails be straight rather than jagged? Or perhaps only deflect in one direction? James
  22. First do a good PA with the weight of the camera/lens etc on the SA then try your exposures again. My first results were similar because I 'had to use it' but never took the time or care over the initial set-up. Mine works fine now with a 430mm fl scope mounted and DX format camera. These images were taken with mine when reviewing a WO ZS 73 APO:
  23. Thanks all for the heads up on this one. My local council have already installed of few of these around the corner from my home. I'll take another look at them and try to ascertain beam brightness and direction. Will report back.
  24. Even a 9x50 finder will show spots. There are filters made to fit finders. I’ve used one as a quick look scope to see if it’s worth getting something bigger out. There is a very usefull app called Solar Monitor Pro which I use on my iPad http://www.solarmonitor-pro.com/ipad/ Or the simpler iPhone / iPad version https://www.solarmonitor-app.com/
  25. I have only the single stack. Interesting you have to get such a high pressure, I've only ever found one other to give a reading and they said around 17-18 for a sweet spot. I've been upto 23psi without seeing any difference - so fingers crossed and it is down to this mucky green filter. Not looking forward to changing it, the process has been described as simple/straightforward with clear instructions.
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