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  2. Biggest problem is the newest firmware is ontroducing a periodic error with +-90" arcseconds and it can nor be guided out do I need to use an older firmware and that one does not correct the SDE of the encoders ... SDE = Sub-divisional error ... and iOptron does NOTHING !
  3. Also from Germany, TS (Sharpstar) 76 EDPH + corrector/reducer to F4,5
  4. wookie1965

    Centre knob

    This is the part I need has anyone got one or know where I can get one from I have been looking on ABS please.
  5. The photo is just a sketch ... Although I only included the brighter stars as the field of view was packed with them...
  6. Did you use a single sub to align all of the stacks? if so you should not need to run alignment again and can just combine the channels. If not at a guess i'd untick "generate drizzle data"
  7. The much maligned Barlow gets a lot of stick. But a good quality Barlow can actually improve the performance of an eyepiece. A low or mid power inexpensive eyepiece will probably have poor performance away from the centre of the field of view in an F4.7 reflector, but adding a good Barlow will often improve the eyepiece performance especially away from the centre of field. But a high power eyepiece when Barlowed may easily give a too high magnification and therefore a fuzzy view. It is of course your decision whether to spend out on a good Barlow or use the same money for better eyepieces...... The performance of your 10” reflector will be compromised by the stock eyepieces, but as already suggested, perhaps have a few sessions and see how you get on. You don’t have to spend top dollar for better eyepieces, there’s mid quality kit available that does a great job. Ed.
  8. Today I made the plate and bracket to hold the Nema23 Declination motor and pulleys. The motor is the same as the RA one being a 2.8 amp, 1.26Nm, 2.5v, and 0.9° step angle type. Just like the RA motor the Dec motor requires a 105 tooth GT2 belt. The DEC housing drilled tapped perfectly this time so there was no need to make a copy out of aluminium like I did on the RA housing.
  9. Yes they're caused by the filter but for a reason: the only way I could fit the filter at the time of shooting these images was with the wrong side to the sky. The spikes within the halos are from the cables to the camera crossing the light path.
  10. Will that paint expand and contrast with the wood...? If so then all good... as plywood does move a lot, with varying temps...
  11. Hi The GSO is less expensive and gives you 75mm to play with.
  12. I think I would like to use the same mast pipe as it provides a good way of mounting the ASC and simpler than attaching it to the roll off roof. Makes it easier to take off for maintenance too. The pipe was used to carry the power cable and water cooling pipes - now it could carry air from the observatory as well as the power cable. For the air supply I would use a 3D printed adapter to enclose the pipe and provide a side-entry. I have a 40mm x 40mm x 20mm heatsink that would fit on the hot side of the Peltier TEC. The incoming air could blow through this and be ducted up and into the dome.
  13. Hi Yes. You don't have enough distance. The gpu requires 55mm, so you have only 10mm for the oag. 16mm will take you too far. Why not get one specifically designed for DSLRs? Apart from the economics, this one just works. HTH
  14. This Is my original post. I will write at length what I experienced later. Thanks ira
  15. As long as its dry and you remove the loose stuff then 2 coats of 2 pack polyurethane paint should give you 10+ years https://www.international-yachtpaint.com/en/gb/boat-paint-products/topcoat-finishes/perfection
  16. All the bells but not the DSC whistle. It is price prohibitive. Not saying more until i take receipt of it and do an out of the box. I am considering making a AZ levelling platform for it and may use an alt meter with it. However I want to do more star hopping and finding so even if I do use the above aids they may get limited use.
  17. Yes. 45 mm is inside the dslr. 10 mm is the t-ring adapter between the cc and dslr. There are some coma correctors that allow/need more than the standard 55mm distance. But I believe, these are more expensive. If you have a working oag solution, you can use it on basically any telescope. But imo, you'll get tired of swapping guiders around. Once you find a stable, functioning configuration, you probably don't want to disturb it. But take that hurdle in due course.
  18. ....and still relevant! And my pier is still there!!!
  19. I looked at the 8x40, but from what I read the 50 would be better as let's in more light. Obviously they will be heavier but the olympus got the better reviews for sure
  20. Not that easy, as I tend to maximise the exposure potential of any image I take. It would be an interesting comparison, but only if I were a gear tester or had Atacama style conditions Using one to two hours of prime-time clear skies to generate a possibly inferior ( maybe, perhaps...more than likely ?? ) image of the same object is one for the purists. Anyway... looking at my past files.... LHS.. C8 Edge QHY8 OSC 105mins exposure with light pollution filter. IDAS-D1 RHS C8 Edge QHY8 OSC 120mins exposure with Enhance ( slightly different cropping). Obviously condtions / Moon Phase / scope collimation / object altitude will be different for each photo, so not exactly a fair comparison. Hope this sheds some light. Sean.
  21. Really helps. Thank you so much. I'm pleased with the decision and hopefully they arrive tomorrow
  22. Phew... I'm Glad. I read up on so many and after ordering the praktica I had to cancel as the olympus looked so much better
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