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  2. Ok, so this is a really annoying bug / problem that I have with my setup: From time to time, in non regular intervals the image my guiding cam (ZWO ASI120) send seems to get flipped / mirrored or looks like it's from a completely different patch of sky. When I'm paying attention to the guide images I can clearly see that the image seems to be flipped in some way. It only happens for 1 frame PHD send a warning ( No star found / Star lost Mass changed) and after that everything is fine again. My gear is all connected to a single USB3 Hub which then runs via powered USB3 cable to my Pc. I'm not binning and have the noise reduction off (though PHD might got hickups while processing) but it still happens. Sometimes there are minutes between two events sometimes it happens 5 times in a row. I'm completely clueless what's happening or how to get rid of it, any help / idea is greatly appreciated.
  3. Hopefully when JTW has finished work on their new mount, they might have time to focus on building his telescope brand. I think the biggest problems with JTW is that they appear to be having an identity crisis. They don't seem to be sure what type of business they are. Are they an engineering company that makes astro gear on the side or a Telescope company that does engineering on the side ? But either way, I would like to see them start producing some finely crafted scopes for the general pub!ic. Who knows they could be the next TEC of Europe and speaking to mark he seems passionate about astronomy, so hopefully we'll start to see some of his scopes in the wild in the near future.
  4. Could be many reasons so please let's not jump to any conclusions. If the OP posts up some pictures then I'm sure a good estimate can be found.
  5. Hi all. Has anyone tried the heater pad around the circumference of the tube to any great degree of success. I too am getting hit with dew on the XX14G so would be interested in success stories. I ordered the Kendrick Split heater but that is a few weeks away. I will post the results once it arrives. I did try a 12v hair dryer, but it barely heats up and was only good for the eyepieces..
  6. You’ve probably checked this already but if the laser isn’t well collimated this can throw out the collimation of the scope, I speak from personal experience so I mention it just in case it’s factor for you. Hope you get it sorted. Steve
  7. Last month I bought an Anteres Versascope 10 x 60 and a ZWO ASI120MM Mini to step in to the work of guiding... Que several weeks of cloud. Tonight was the first clear night where I've had chance to set up so given the full moon I thought I'd give it go because I wouldn't be imaging anything. Anyway, installed PHP2 and SharpCap but I don't seem to be able to get anything out of the camera except shades of grey through white and for the life of me I can't work out what I doing wrong. So my question is, can someone talk me through a setup and how best to test this please?
  8. I chose the EEVA because I like simple things, so I use alignment to a one star close to the object I'm going to visit and center this allign star with a 50/205 mm finder + an illuminated eyepiece of 26 mm. I also do not like the 6-bolt fastening system because the finder moves too easily. I've tried and rejected all laser finders because the red dot shines too much for most alignment stars
  9. Actually these galaxies are very interesting. But at the moment I continue with my particular marathon of objects of equal or less than 12 magnitude and until I finish it I can not start a new one. If the Mediterranean sky behaves moderately well I hope to finish it this year. Between all we are going to obtain a quite complete collection of celestial objects...
  10. Sorry that you have decided to sell this amazing scope. It only seems like only a short time since I remember reading on this forum about you buying it and the excitement you were feeling about owning such a quality instrument. I dream of owning a scope like this one day. Good luck with the sale and I hope you enjoyed the views while you had them. Steve
  11. CAD drawings of the heatsinks etc. and with the air duct added (shown in transparent blue). In the second drawing the air will be blown into the bottom left and emerge on the right where it will be diverted up to the dome. Condensate will be removed through the hole in the bottom of the air duct.
  12. Nice one, I saw this too, it looked great.
  13. Don't know, a monopod might be more practical, but it's a nice project & video.
  14. Filters such as the UHC and O-III type enhance the views of nebulae but don't improve the view of clusters or galaxies. O-III filters tend to provide a more dramatic improvement of some nebulae but the UHC provide a more subtle improvement over a wider range of such targets. My personal preference is the O-III because of the major impact it has on targets such as the Veil and Owl nebulae which are otherwise very difficult to see at all. Others might prefer the UHC type I suspect. There is a lot of personal taste in the choice of this type of filter I think. O-III filters do tend to dim surrounding stars more than the UHC type because O-III filters admit just that single wavelength of light whereas UHC filters admit both the O-III and H-Beta wavelengths. My preferred filter brands are Lumicon and Astronomik. I've not used the Explore Scientific brand so can't comment on their performance. Currently good planetary nebulae targets include the Eskimo Nebula (NGC 2392) in Gemini and the Cats Eye Nebula (NGC 6543) in Draco. These can be seen reasonably well without a filter but a filter will add some interest although you can also loose the central stars where they are visible. The Owl Nebula (M97) in Ursa Major is hard to spot without a UHC or O-III filter but is well placed when you get one. Later in the year the famous Ring Nebula (M57) in Lyra and Dumbbell Nebula (M27) in Vulpecula are well worth finding and observing both with and without filters. And of course that fabulous supernova remnant, the Veil Nebula lies in Cygnus and will soon be rising high later at night. Low power, wide field and a good UHC or O-III filter make this one object so rewarding !
  15. Today
  16. I'd agree that they are relatively unknown in the astroimaging world. However, they do make quite a bit for the more professional community of which they have more telescopes out there (e.g. GOTO). They don't get advertised in the same way... 3-4 months is the quoted time for a Newtonian I believe, 6 months for a CDK or more complex design. I do appreciate that there is always the risk of the unknown.
  17. Yes, when you get into astrophotography you really learn to hate that thing!
  18. Oh, no definitely. Not expecting anything as close to that but gonna do my best. My dead line is the 13th of May. Hopefully I'll have a few clear moonless nights until then. This weekend would've been so good if that big bright ball in the sky wasn't there. ☺ 3 clear nights in a row. ☺
  19. Welcome from another Midlander - Walsall. Steve
  20. I’ve just come in from walking the hound and that’s a very similar view to the one we enjoyed as the moon rose, nice shot.
  21. Hi all Am playing around with a new refractor and seem to be getting odd star shapes. So I've done some tests without the 0.79 reducer/flattener, just in case that was the culprit, and seem to have a notch on one side of my stars. If I rotate the camera, the position of the notch rotates too so this seems to suggest the problem is with the scope, not the sensor. I wondered if the front clamp was too tight, but I don't think so - loosening it didn't seem to make a difference. One problem with this is its very difficult to avoid tilt, because without the reducer I need a long extension and this is prone to tilt. However, I've done the test several times and the notch always seems to be in the same place. In fact having done tests without the reducer, I repeated them with the reducer and the result is the same. Also I've tried various filters, and it's the same with all of them. That said, I've done some further tests yesterday and the notch seems reduced. Does anyone have any ideas please? I've also done some star tests and have posted the patterns - they look about right though TBH I've never done this before. So how is the star showing a notch, but the circles show no distortion? BTW I've taken care that these aren't binary stars. I used mostly Phad and Merak. I've kept the exposure short, so there is no trailing type effect. I'd be very grateful for any ideas! First test, obvious notch merak no red_00012 21_53_12_.fits Second test, this time with the reducer because I can be sure that its square - notch less obvious. Note it was also less obvious even without the reducer on this occasion - I cant think what might have been different. Phad Red L-15_00002 22_02_44_.fits Star tests Merak Red L-15_00002 22_23_13_.fits Merak Red L-15_00002 22_29_00_.fits
  22. Hi guys, its me kronos, and i am about to purchase a new a new filter for my 5” and 8” scopes. I cant decide wether to buy a UHC or an oiii filter. my budget it 70euros max And i have settled between the uhc explore scientific or the oiii explore scientific. i am open to other suggestions in this price range i am keen to observing more deep sky objects with better detail Whichever filter i wont buy now, i will buy a better one in the future(for example if i dont buy the uhc , i will buy an astronomic uhc in the future) So far i have loved the views of m42 (i have observed many more objects)and now thats its fading into the suns glare, i m starting to find more and more objects.Hoping to observe the veil and the lagoon nebula as long as some planetaries and definetly globulars(which i ve heard that they dont take filters(am i correct?). I ve heard that the oiii enhances contrast and dims the object, but is the dimming worth the additional contrast from the uhc? i havent yet observed my first planetary , but i am planning to soon.I m really excited to see one! I will make another thread similar to this then,asking questions that may arise and reach a conclusion. I wrote this thread to ask about your preferences with filters(oiii or uhc) and for advice on what i should buy according to the objects i want to view) thanks, any advice will be useful. kronos Clear skies.
  23. Really enjoyed how this one turned out as I feel the colour was captured perfectly. A single shot with Canon EOS 1100D, ISO 800, 1/30s f/4 at 84mm. I then had to raise the brightness, levels and curves in GIMP as these settings were too dark to see anything other than the moon but were required to give a sharp image.
  24. I stopped using books in the field since I discovered sky safari but I still get my maps out often, including uranometria, to plan sessions and also I'll look up objects as I read about them and this helps to build my knowledge of whats where.
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