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  2. Last week week when there was a prominent sunspot group on the solar disc, this was easily visible through my Lunt 8 x 32 Sunoculars. John
  3. Looking for an 8" Dobsonian - presumably Skyliner 200P or SkyQuest XT8 - in gently-used condition. Don't need eyepieces, as I have several Orion Plossls. Located in Leeds and can drive to pick up.
  4. Just to emphasise this point, this picture was taken with a 50mm Spotting scope fitted with Baader Solar film, and using x30 magnification. I suspect your problem has been the lack of activity ie nothing to see! Keep an eye on SGL and also the apps which the guys have posted and try again when there is a good sized spot visible. I enjoy using a 4" refractor with a Herschel Wedge and find it gives excellent detail when conditions are good. I use a binoviewer in it as it helps reduce the impact of floaters which I suffer from, and also allows more relaxed viewing.
  5. Hi James - If it is a serious error and the drive wheel is a little eccentric then there may be a speed variation causing the brighter patches...?
  6. Hi guys What type of Grease would I use for a strip and refurbishment of my Eq6 pro. I did it a couple of years ago and it is very stiff just wondering if I used the wrong grease but this time I'm going to fit a belt drive. Regards Solarboy
  7. Steve, I already investigated this very topic. What I found out from pictures on the web is, that the SW-extension on the tripod and the AZ-mount head will fit together. The SW extension on the iOptron tripod will probably not match. The SW tripod has a center recessed hole and into that hole (3cm diameter?!) the counterpart of the SW-extension fits. The iOptron tripod has a flat surface, which will make using the SW-extension on the tripod incompatible. regards Michael
  8. Given that only the RA axis is driven, if there's periodic error and that's the only problem, shouldn't the trails be straight rather than jagged? Or perhaps only deflect in one direction? James
  9. First do a good PA with the weight of the camera/lens etc on the SA then try your exposures again. My first results were similar because I 'had to use it' but never took the time or care over the initial set-up. Mine works fine now with a 430mm fl scope mounted and DX format camera. These images were taken with mine when reviewing a WO ZS 73 APO:
  10. Thanks all for the heads up on this one. My local council have already installed of few of these around the corner from my home. I'll take another look at them and try to ascertain beam brightness and direction. Will report back.
  11. Even a 9x50 finder will show spots. There are filters made to fit finders. I’ve used one as a quick look scope to see if it’s worth getting something bigger out. There is a very usefull app called Solar Monitor Pro which I use on my iPad http://www.solarmonitor-pro.com/ipad/ Or the simpler iPhone / iPad version https://www.solarmonitor-app.com/
  12. I have only the single stack. Interesting you have to get such a high pressure, I've only ever found one other to give a reading and they said around 17-18 for a sweet spot. I've been upto 23psi without seeing any difference - so fingers crossed and it is down to this mucky green filter. Not looking forward to changing it, the process has been described as simple/straightforward with clear instructions.
  13. I turned mine through 90° putting the fine focus knob on top where it's easy to get to.
  14. We have, in the past, briefly considered a society Observatory, one member even looked at a possible plot, the eventual cost of which would have taken several years membership fees. Needless to say, we don't have one. Most considerations have already been covered - security, power, water, insurance. Also consider access/parking, can be problematic just for members but more so when expanding to outreach. Apart from the physical aspects of the build you will also have to manage access to the Observatory. The members will have paid for it so should have access to it, but who has the keys? Must an authorised member be on site to supervise? Will set up be for visual only or will imaging be allowed? If the latter do you allow members to bring own cameras to attach or does the society provide. Having spent many thousands on the build then it should be used, ideally, on every clear night which means that an authorised member must be also available. None of this is insurmountable, but will need a dedicated team to manage the observatory. Rob
  15. Think the tripod was reasonably stable and I stayed well away from it for the longer exposure. I don't remember much wind that night but I could probably find some weather station data to confirm. I've used 135mm lenses on three other mounts before and while I've had streaks due to balance problems or misalignment I haven't had a flock of seagulls before.
  16. Sorry I meant your stacked image ie fits file , and as above screen shot your final image
  17. Any telescope that will give you sufficient magnification will be suitable. I've used my Meade refractor, suitably filtered using a solar filter, to view sunspots. Unfortunately, the sun is very quiet at the moment with little activity. https://sohowww.nascom.nasa.gov/ https://sohowww.nascom.nasa.gov/sunspots/
  18. Looks good to me too. As you say, no darks applied . When you do, as long as you have DARKS at the same temperature and gain then Amp Glow should not be a problem. Not bad image for starters. Well done.
  19. well to me, I'd say the stars in the classic version all seem to be a pale shade of purple ? I'm a sucker for sciencey things so would always go for the PCC but it does make your galaxy look a little red. Did you apply Background Neutralisation after PCC by the way ?
  20. ASTAP works under Windows/Linux and does stacking and platesolving even has a Planetarium option called HNSKY http://www.hnsky.org/software.htm - I dont use it so cant comment on how good/easy it is but Hans,the author I beleive, is a registered SGL user. But there is no problem doing post processing on any other OS that works for you
  21. Looks like a pretty darn good image of M101 to me!
  22. Sorry for being blunt but making a statement "However sill doesn't work" does not help a lot to find the problem - How about some info - ASPS Log file for example and or screen print of any errors Plus post the image you are trying to solve , Scope and Camera details so we may try and Platesolve the image
  23. Yes, it's certainly feasible, and stacking may not be required. Here's a few example 2-minute exposures taken with a 135mm lens at f3.5. In the dark they show up much better on the camera screen and its possible to zoom in to see quite a bit of detail. My Samyang f2 lens would be even better. The above is after a very quick process. Results will be greatly improved by shooting from a dark site, but an Ha filter is an option for light-polluted areas.
  24. I would say that around 200 mm focal length gets you reasonable details with the advantage of capturing interesting foreground/clouds too. This cropped image was shot with my Canon 70-200 f/4. Alan P.S. Another advantage for me is that Lunar shots like the one above can be done hand held..
  25. Today
  26. Yes is the simple answer I and many others have been doing VA or whatever you want to call it today with DSLR For example using Astrotoaster you have "Live" stack and view EAA images - remember EAA is not all about getting a photographers level image - IMO. Using Astrotoaster you are able to get a live view on a local or remote PC within a couple of frames depending on the object. In effect its like doing DSS and looking at the finished image after post processing - only in "near Real Time". All I do is pre create "Darks" and a Master Dark select the folder where the images will be placed by ,in my case,APT and let Astrotoaster do its thing - while watching and "tinkering" with adjustments to get something I am satisfied with - quite a simple process. The image appears within 2 or 3 frames and just gets better as the images are stacked. Attached is a screen print of an actual image shown - with text added later of course
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