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  2. Nice test here by Alexandra, should apply to the Solar Scout pretty much. What FOV are you getting with it ? Dave
  3. I have the bundle and, in all honesty think it's probably better to buy the scope and add other bits as you need them - e.g. the powertank is useful, but only if you don't have one already. The diagonal and eyepiece are nothing special...
  4. I would have to “make do” with an AZ-EQ5 GT mount for now. Think it would handle the weight.
  5. Initial reaction - very positive, nice build quality and a great size. I had a brief first light with it yesterday and directly compared to a Lunt 60, B1200 Pressure tuned and I could see some very faint / small prominence through the DayStar that I could not see in the Lunt. This was a very quick peak between clouds and there is very little on the sun at the moment so I will repeat the test for longer when I get a chance and will keep comparing the two. One thing I am going to have to get used to is powering it and waiting for 5-10 minutes when adjusting the tuning for the temperature to stabilise - I am used to instant tuning results on the Lunt. I suspect when I am used to it, I will know what setting works best and start from that and the need for messing with adjustment will be less. Two things strike me already though - the helical focuser works way better than I expected at getting a nice tight fine focus without moving anything and secondly, it's nice to be able to adjust the tuning without needing to brace the scope / mount as the pressure tuner on the Lunt does take a fair bit of torque to adjust. For reference - I am using both on a Sky-Watcher SolarQuest mount - I love this mount!
  6. Looking of one of the newer Nirvana 16mm UWA eyepices with the rubber eye cup.
  7. Looks very interesting. Can Grant share his findings and results on here? I'm very interested in this. Also, what does the bundle consist of and which would be better for imaging?
  8. Lovely image, I've recently acquired a Ha filter and the difference adding this data makes to your images is incredible, nicely done.
  9. ack so a minor error on my part. New board module arrived, powers up and gives a nice image. BUT its slightly oversize for the mounting sphere in the mini dome... DOH! So I guess plan-B then, leave this one up and re-fix this new one in the dud dummy dome housing to test and then acquire a new dome for its final fit. Got one on order that I purchased cheap as not working, that's of the larger type with an arm to wall mount it, so hopefully won't be a problem So I guess a side-by-side test is on the cards after all lol
  10. I'll put it up when I'm home. It won't quite match as when I edited the above I did it from scratch after cropping the area of interest I wanted to concentrate on so the look and feel is different.
  11. It's not real grease but some graphite grease which I use for my guitar nut and you're right I should be careful ... I think I'll listen to you and try with the plumbers tape... Thanks
  12. There are more DayStar products in the pipeline.
  13. And the... DayStar Solar Scout SS60-DS 60mm H-alpha Solar Telescope Grant is currently playing with assessing one of these
  14. Also... The DayStar Solar Scout 80mm Carbon Fibre H-alpha Solar Telescope In stock for overnight delivery.
  15. This has surely got to be one for the Mewlon 210, Stu!
  16. Great. One of these is on my list of acquisitions so which type would most users recommend - chromosphere or prom? No I cant have both!! Steve
  17. Thanks Gerry - any thoughts on the extenders (even the x3 is cheaper than a single EP and from ES, whats the drawback?!)
  18. Hi, I dont mind you making improvements and suggestions. I find them very helpful in trying to get to next level
  19. You can now buy DayStar Quark Solar eyepieces at FLO In stock for overnight delivery.
  20. I'd say no, as my mount is fixed, I just need to check Polar alignment every few months, but after that I just instruct SGPro\APT to slew & then plate solve...
  21. Congrats! The ES 24mm 68 is a great eyepiece.
  22. Chromatic aberration is not the only issue with cheap short-focus crown/flint refractors. A lot of them suffer significant amounts of spherical aberration as well, and the field curvature might be a lot less predictable/ correctable. Alacant's suggestion with a Wratten #8 is worth a punt but that's about as far as I'd go. A least from the theoretical point of view, your Newt is a known quantity...any coma corrector to suit the f-ratio should be giving very acceptable results out of the box assuming the spacing is correct. We are taking it as read that you are looking to do deep-sky work here..I don't think it makes it clear in the initial post. A decent long-focus achromat is capable of very reasonable results on planets/ moon with nothing more than a cheap UV/IR filter. Are there any other ways you could optimise your results from the newt, at minimal expense? Are you using a Bahtinov mask to focus? Is the CC spacing optimised? Would a cheap LPR filter help? Processing? If you're determined to go the refractor route, the old blue Skywatcher ED80s often change hands for about £200 secondhand...mine did! They are a very good start, if a bit slow. The focal reducer is a very worthwhile addition. I've been doing astrophotography for 40 years and I'm still amazed at my own talent to mess it up completely either by clumsiness or forgetfulness. Given the infrequent good nights, anything that makes the data aquisition simpler and more reliable has to be a good thing. A small ED frac can be a big step in this direction providing it suits your chosen targets (wide field); easier to mount (half the weight, half the focal length, less than half the wind sail area), don't go out of collimation. They are about the closest thing in astronomy to kit which "just works". It might be worth saving up....optimise the return on those precious hours spent outside. RL
  23. Today
  24. I use the Celestron AVX mount and I also use Astrophotography Tool when imaging. When I start my imaging session I will undertake a two star alignment then move to my target and THEN platesolve to ensure I have the object centred. My question is do I need to bother with two star alignment (or any other Celestron alignment for that matter)? My thought would be to Polar align then take a shot of Polaris and plate solve this, sync the result to the mount then “Goto” from there. The only issue I have is when you switch the mount on and enter time/date etc it asks you to do a star alignment so how do I ignore this or do I do just that, ignore it! Sorry for the rambling question. john
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