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  2. The trend seems to be moving towards dedicated CCD /CMOS astro cameras. Keeping up with the proprietary DSLR interface changes as new ones come out is tough for developers.
  3. The simplest dehumidifier would be to blow the air through packets of silica gel which would need replacing every so often with fresh or dried packets. However, experience has shown that the silica gel gets "full" pretty quickly even with the air indoors. The other way is to cool the air below dew-point so that the water condenses out. I could do this with a Peltier TEC. Of course the dried air would then need heating otherwise the dome will be cold and dew will condense on the outside. I guess the cooled and dried air could be passed through a heat exchanger on the hot side of the Peltier TEC and warmed up for feeding up into the dome. This would become a combined dehumidifier and dew heater. Hmmm... I wonder...
  4. Thanks Shane, It is gradual, in a similar way nebulae and galaxies reveal detail gradually. I don't really stare directly at the planet but let my eye naturally scan the disc. That way subtle detail can often flit in and out of view as the turbulence comes and goes. Obviously, its not easy to accurately place features on such a tiny disc, so the sketch is just a rough representation of how things may appear in a small scope at high power.
  5. Haven't got much done this week, but over the last couple of evenings I've been tidying up in preparation for painting the scope room, which I hope my daughter will help with tomorrow. I even took a hoover down and to get rid of as much of the dust as possible. Disappointingly the removal of the dust revealed this: Looks like a rodent of some variety has been nibbling at the edge of the floor I'm slightly tempted to get some steel or aluminium angle and screw it over the edges, though clearly I'm going to need to put some "rodent deterrent" down there somewhere. Last job this evening was to remove and number all the pieces of aluminium section for the lighting. They can go back in once the painting is done, but taking them out makes the whole job a lot quicker and simpler. James
  6. Nice work. Big thanks for sharing your data. I certainly need to practice more. I have downloaded your files and tried processing using APP and PI but I am really struggling to handle the light pollution. Your final image is way better than anything I can do with your data so far, well done.
  7. Thank you. I updated firmware before I turned the mount on. As for the manuals, there is no manual describing app functions and alignment methods. It appears that there is no quick solar alignment, but at the same time I have no idea what point and track is and how it works. Celestron has solar system alignment and it works beautifully, no need to point north, just level.
  8. Yes, that is just what I was thinking as an alternative. I shall have to think how I can manage it. Ideally, dry(ish) air from inside the observatory. OTOH is the air in the observatory dry? Alternatively, I'm wondering if I could make a tiny dehumidifier.
  9. 4 hours into the print and it's gone wrong!
  10. That's interesting John. Looking forward to trying it out properly, probably going to have to build that dob mount first though. Not sure I fancy balancing the Gitzo on the EQ Platform!!
  11. Mosaic of seven shots through a C6 with x2 barlow. I always like this region. Trevor
  12. If a scope is perceived as being overpriced new, the standard used 2/3 pricing of new pricing ain’t going to get many takers.
  13. Had exactly the same OTA a few years ago. Clear winner over my C11 on planets. Eventually replaced it with an OD350. Wish I still had it though.
  14. What is it with the mozzies this year, they're massive ! Nice scope too
  15. The scope is home finally, so I very quickly set it up on the most unsuitable mount possible, the Ercole on a Gitzo tripod The moon is only just pulling above the hedge and is still very hazy but at least I can claim first light. It collimated very easily with the laser, not being far out at all despite a long and bumpy journey. Will have a look a little later, but I'm seeking refuge from mosquitoes the size of dragonflies at the moment! Need some repellent!
  16. This is really good - I've never managed to image this object and each time I see an effort as good as this it makes me doubt whether I should Outstanding - especially the blue and depth to the star field. David
  17. This is my experience too. I am using a Canon 550D with Stellarmate/Indi/Ekos, and it is just not stable.
  18. Perhaps you could wait till darkness, look to the heavens and discover it’s true worth. Perhaps the person who left it to you would look down with a smile and say “ there you go, amazing isn’t it “
  19. Today
  20. OK thanks for the info. John
  21. When you first turn on the mount, it's going to assume that it's pointing north and the scope is parallel to the ground (level). Then when you ask for it to do a one star alignment it will slew to roughly the location it thinks the start you've chosen should be. You then adjust the position of the scope so that object is centre of your view through your scope and hit the tick button. I think you have to finish the alignment with an up and right movement to account for any backlash (slop) in the mount gearing. So just overshoot and adjust back the other way if required. This should get the goto working approximately, although it will be much more accurate with a 3 star alignment. You might want to think about updating the mounts firmware to the latest version as there have been a few bug fixes which solve a number of issues. You can download the firmware and the wifi firmware loader from here. http://skywatcher.com/download/software/motor-control-firmware/ Connect directly to the mounts wifi when updating, it's a lot more reliable.
  22. You would calibrate the individual sets, and then stack the results in one go. The flats are there to remove optical artefacts like dust and vignetting. So you could have 10 sets of subs with flats for each. If the flats do their job, the 10 individual sets should provide clean, calibrated subs, ready to stack together on one operation.
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