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  2. CPC do a large range of it, in various sizes : CPC
  3. As titled, how common is this problem? I tried the 102ED-R out for the first time last night and my old buddy, tilt, came along for the ride. That's 3 different scopes I've had now that have some sort of distorted stars at the edges. So trying to dial in the correct flattener spacing is difficult as you end up chasing your tail. Stars ok one side, coma on the opposite. I have a tilt adapter which fits in between flattener and camera somewhere but the problem with that is if it's in the focuser, as soon as you change orientation to frame an image any adjustments made go out the window. Example of last night, I started off with a 0.8 reducer, everything threaded connection. No good. So then I switched to the Hotech SCA and worked at F7. Still the same. Tilt on one side. I rotate the camera and flattener 90° in the drawtube, tilt moves from left side of image to top. So its definitely not the camera. Surely I'm not the only one to wrestle with this? Anyone got any tips or ideas?
  4. I use expandable nylon braid. And I have a lot of cables - this is a detail of the scope end, and the cables running from the scope: Chris
  5. My comment on the focuser there was at the time comparing it to the Feather Touch on my APO and the Moonlite on my Meade SC, I have had the scope longer than I thought.
  6. I took photos of mine this morning, is it worth contacting Lunt?
  7. I have a working Skywatcher DC motor and brackets. The cable is missing and handset appears faulty but let me know if it is of any use V
  8. Not seen that stuff before, but it looks very handy. James
  9. The significant difference comes from the low read noise and the recommended typical usage. With a CMOS sensor camera you'd probably want to take more shorter exposures. The mono Panasonic sensors found in the ASI1600/Atik Horizon/Qhy163 has a full well of ~20000 electrons which is converted by the ADU to a value represented on 12 bits (0-4095). Using a gain for the highest dynamic range, the ADU will indeed limit the resolution of read data. But for the highest dynamic range, the read noise is highest and this is not the best way to use such a camera. As I said in the beginning, with these CMOS sensors, for optimal results you should increase the gain - in order to benefit from the lower read noise. This also decreases the dynamic range. For an ASI1600, above a certain gain the dynamic range decreases enough so that the recorded data can be represented on a 12bit integer value so the ADC is no longer the limiting factor. What you need to do is to record as many exposures as you can. Be aware that compared to the typical usage of a camera with a CCD sensor with long exposures, a sub taken with a CMOS sensor will be much darker and a stack of subs as well. In order not to lose relevant data, make sure that the stack is represented on at least 32 bits. Some applications (ie. Registar) doesn't work with 32bit float fits files, but most of them do (PixInsight, APP, GIMP 2.10). If you want a comparison, is like having a cup filled with water (stack of long exposure CCD subs) or the same amount of water in a bucket (same amount of hours stack of short exposure CMOS subs) - the water will have different heights.
  10. Certainly an interesting event, shame it's at such unsociable hours at the moment. Especially with the view I have in that region of the sky, it's an hour window.
  11. I use Velcro straps. Picture attached. You can see some around the handle beneath the guide scope that tidy up the dew straps and behind the main camera. The camera to computer leads are strapped together in a ‘loom’. Makes it easier to adjust which wires go where compared to a spiral wrap and makes tidying up at the end of a session easier dealing with ‘one’ wire. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Grapelet-Black-Adjustable-Strap-Reusable/dp/B01M3SMRBO/ref=asc_df_B01M3SMRBO/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=223170773229&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6522590945153768859&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045049&hvtargid=pla-421533026280&psc=1 John
  12. This stuff is nice to work with - it's like spiral wrap, but split like a zipper. Comes with a tool to zip cables in easily. Much easier to add and remove from the bundle and unwinding spiral wrap. You can break cables out wherever you need along its length 28mm Cable Tidy c/w Applicator - Black
  13. Sounds like a good time to be imaging Jupiter. Not so fortunate for those of us well to the north James
  14. Cracking little bino! This is the one I fund-raised for a year ago (FLO donated six ); altogether I have a dozen that I use for outreach; ideal for youngsters. All arrived in, and remain in, collimation. A waterproof bino of this optical quality is a steal at this new price.
  15. Spiral wrap seems to be very popular for keeping them all together and out of the way, but even then I guess you'll have to separate them somewhere. James
  16. Steve - They are 100160, 100583, and 082293. I strongly recommend The Cambridge Double Star Atlas - it gives these numbers. I then put them into the handset and reach the targets. As I said, if they are not in the HS, I aim for something close, then "hop". The three I saw are all good to view - close (at different mags), with the fainter member at different orientations - very nice. I was pleased indeed to see the last two, as my mag only goes to x160 (until I get a focal extender on my birthday!), and I am sure I would not have seen clear splits had I been using the Cat or Dob, since they are not as sharp as the frac. (I can squeeze a bit more mag out of it without the exit pupil getting too small.) Have fun! Doug.
  17. Just seen this on the Spaceweather site, very intruiging and something for both observers and imagers alike to have a look at in the coming days/weeks/months..... https://spaceweatherarchive.com/2019/05/20/is-the-great-red-spot-unraveling/
  18. Hi Johannes I’m using a SW 250px that I purchased in 2010. Excuse the mess of cables. Just a temporary setup.
  19. I've used TS many times and they are very good in my experience. It takes a few days longer to get the goods but they have been highly reliable in my experience. I would be tempted by this one: https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p9868_TS-Optics-PhotoLine-102mm-f-7-FPL-53-Doublet-Apo-with-2-5--Focuser.html Stu
  20. Hi all please tell me I’m not the only one who gets freaked out with the messy cables . Any ideas on tidying them up ,Eq5 pro goto din cables are super stiff and short 2 camera cables ( not cooled(yet)) dew heater running to ASIair and then to tri-pod power EQ mod . 9 cables 3 cam/cam/dew strap which need to pass the axis of the mount if asi box mount on stand or 3 eq mod/dew strap/ power if asi box on the scope + the 2 din cables . Any pics with ideas most appreciated.
  21. Today
  22. Alan, Good analysis! I think you are spot on and the voltage measurements show that there is a current limiting resistor in series with the photodiode. Hopefully, Peter's tests will confirm that the relay will operate as required with the IN+ terminal connected directly to the positive rail when the IN- terminal is shorted to ground. It's a nice idea of yours to order a relay board yourself. They do seem useful things to have around. Regards, Hugh
  23. Don't worry Gav, PM sent to Jonk with link to Dropbox files. William Jon. Have sent you a Dropbox link via PM William.
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