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  1. Today
  2. From my point of view it is one of the most complete scopes on the market. If visual you can get good wide field views with the right eyepieces and whilst a bit over the top for exit pupil I always use a 35mm Panoptic giving wide view and low magnification. At the over end it handles a 3.5mm Delos of even a bit shorter with magnification of over X300, gives first rate planetary views of Mars when it's close to us. Also judging by what I have seen it is more than capable for imaging in the right hands, not sure those hands belong to me yet though. Alan
  3. I'm very pleased with the Skymax 127, it's lightweight, short and well made, the ideal grab and go scope in my book. Of course it needs some time to cool down to ambient, but that should be an issue. You always reed about how a Mak is best used for planetary observing, but in my experience it does a great job on the brighter DSO's, certainly most Messier objects are no problem. As astrophotography goes, i've only used it for Lunar work, i wouldn't know if putting a 0,5 reducer on it would be pushing it too far.
  4. Interesting stuff here, i've had my eye on the SW and ES Mak Newton scopes for a while now, but there aren't that many around you can read about. At least on paper these scopes look like they offer the best of two worlds. Choices choices, there so many great scopes out there
  5. The only wide angle that I've tried that competes with good orthos is the 12.5 Docter UWA with and without a barlow. I have no issue using my 15" dob with high power orthoscopic eyepieces. Ethos don't compete for sharpness/detail, the Delos is better in this regard but both have wicked contrast. A very good combination is a 12.5mm ortho (or 10mmBCO) with a barlow- hard to beat...
  6. It was a shock to read Per had passed away, my condolences to all his family and friends, I always found what he had to interesting and believe he was doing some great imaging from less than perfect locations. It was the thread by Gunnar that I have read at least a couple of times. As for the focuser, mine has the duel speed version and was bought about 5 years ago, the focuser always seemed fine with extension tube and heavy TeleVue eyepieces like the 31mm Nagler and 21mm Ethos, it was also pretty much OK with the Canon DSLR 40D. There was a problem which was in fact grub screws missing from the adapter ring, how 2 of them came out I will never know, maybe not there to start. These missing the weight of the camera cause a tilt. As for colimation I Hotect laser and found that to be fine, however being unguided images it was hardly put to a severe test of all's well. I see this scope is rated by many, I have always liked it alot for its visual ability and have split Sirius with is many times, also Antares. Alan
  7. I would choose a variable-polariser, rather than one with a fixed percentage, the 13% in question... https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p321_TS-Optics-variable-Polarising-Filter-1-25--for-moon-and-planets.html There are also other fixed-percentages available, up to 25% I believe. You'd have all the fixed percentages in one unit with the variable-polariser. A variable polariser acts as an indoor light-dimmer, but for the telescope. You simply twist the two halves together to adjust... Now, I'm not suggesting it so much for the Moon, although if the light from same bothers your eyes, by all means. Where I found great success with my own was when observing Jupiter, particularly during its opposition. I was observing Jupiter with a 150mm f/5 Newtonian, the next step down in size from your own. The planet was simply too bright, even at the higher powers, to see any detail. I then integrated the variable-polariser... I could at last see wondrous detail on Jupiter's surface. The filter also eliminated the flares caused by the Newtonian's secondary's spider-vanes. During Mars' fairly recent opposition, the filter eliminated those as well... But there was no detail to be seen on Mars' surface at that time, as the planet was experiencing a major dust storm. Those are digital drawings of what I saw live, and from Bortle 3 or 4 skies here at my home. Those 66° wide-angle eyepieces are sold on eBay, if you have access, and for considerably less outlay; for example, here's the entire set... https://www.ebay.com/itm/SVBONY-1-25-FMC-Ultra-Wide-66-6-9-15-20mm-Eyepieces-for-Astronomical-Telescope/323738641360?hash=item4b6053a3d0:g:SokAAOSwg31abF8r&frcectupt=true A pair of the 6mm and 9mm... https://www.ebay.com/itm/SVBONY-1-25-6mm-9mm-66-Deg-FMC-Ultra-Wide-Angle-Eyepieces-For-Astro-Telescope/362586394038?hash=item546bd54db6:g:UJ4AAOSw64tbnPqE A single 6mm... https://www.ebay.com/itm/SVBONY-1-25-Ultra-Wide-Angle-Eyepieces-Lens-6mm-66-FMC-for-Astro-Telescope-NEW/312505460469?hash=item48c2c6e6f5:g:-cIAAOSw-JJabFUX The full Moon is not usually observed, as there's little detail to be seen. It's during the Moon's phases that drives us wild... But then, why not, as I've observed the full Moon on several occasions... ...including that big "strawberry".
  8. Welcome to SGL, Best of Luck and Clear Skies of course... Freddie.
  9. Welcome from Australia How your skies over there 12 months ago was touring northern India, New Delia, Agra, Jaipur, Rishikesh, Varanasi, Amritsar, Mumbai, and the skies were very hazy during the day, and hardly see the sun When in Jaipur visited the Jantra Mantra What an amazing astronomical place https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1338 John
  10. I want it. Can you please post it to Belfast? Thank you.
  11. Hi all less frustrating tonight .🥳 So first night with asiair only a few small issues had a loose power cable to synscan box which I solved after a while, then took a while to focus main camera ,so fairly productive .then decided to go visual on moon Jupiter and Saturn when it decides to poke its head up from behind some trees 🛰.just seen Saturn and rings got a crap pic on phone cant wait to get this setup working properly
  12. Not bad, not at all. When I take snaps through my telescopes, I sharpen them with a paint programme, but only to match the sharpness seen when observing with the eye and an eyepiece. I also adjust the contrast, and again, only to match what was seen live. For example, I took this shot of the Moon through a 60mm refractor... Now, you may think that sharp and clear, but I saw the minutest of detail within this area of that image during a live view with my own eye and eyepiece... ...craterlets and rilles, hills and dales, seemingly tens if not hundreds of them, but the camera could not capture a single one. Therefore, I think that you've got a very nice telescope there.
  13. Chaz, the 393 dovetail attached to the dovetail with the rings on the scope as mentioned in my last post, just slides along the mount and locks into place with the lever on the mount. In effect the two dovetails bolted together act as a single dovetail with the scope and rings on top. Of course, by sliding the scope through the rings you get even more adjustment options. I hope all this makes some sense !?
  14. Ade, I probably find it much easier to balance than you do because both of the above scopes come with rings. Both scopes dovetails have suitable holes that you can fasten to the 393's dovetail with the supplied bolts than come with the mount - all very compatable.
  15. Ahh...do you mean can you adjust it in the dovetail bracket? Or the hole alignment? chaz
  16. I was thinking of ordering one about this time last year. Unfortunately, it all seems to have gone very quiet.
  17. You're very welcome. I have an MN190 to set up myself now my observatory is progressing, so it's useful information for me, too. Mine already has a Moonlight focuser (came that way when I bought it used), so I shall be checking it all out when I'm ready to mount it up. James
  18. Yesterday
  19. Below is a pic of my 393 with my SW 72ED, and it handles it very well. In fact I've not bothered to use another mount for it since I first put the 72ED in it to try it out. It also balances well when using my Baader Maxbright binoviewer with a couple of eyepieces. As Ade says the axis can be tightened very securely, but you don't need too much tension when the scope is balanced. This is extremely easy as the Manfrottos own 'dovetail' is several inches long and can smoothly be slid along and locked in position securely using a small lever on the mount - this takes only seconds and is very easy. The fact that the axis tighten well if necessarily means it can be locked in position while you put on a binovoviewer for instance before you rebalance it. The mount will nearly reach the zenith with my 72ED, the forks are about five to six inches deep which is what limits it. Having said that, I can easily adjust one leg of my photo tripod the head is on if I need to reach the zenith, though I haven't needed to very often. I love this mount and for a smallish scope it is truly excellent, having said that I have also used it with my Astro-Tech 102ED on it which is quite a substantial scope. Excellent at low to medium power with this scope, and ok for higher powers too if it's not too windy. I've also added a pic with the Astro Tech 102ED on the 393.
  20. If you see the light in the reflection it looks more white but if you shine the light at an angle and view it such that the light source isn't directly visible in the reflection it then appears as green. I assumed that's what bilbo wanted, but with his image showing the light itself shown in the reflection, I think I've got it wrong and would have to say it's more white than green. Sorry bilbo. (S/N 0001005) Alan
  21. Welcome to SGL! you’ve come to the right place for sure.
  22. A few nights ago, while I was waiting for my DSO target to come up ftom behind my house, I decided to have a go at the moon with the QHY183M. I used the red filter as I heard that it's reduceing a bit the effects of the bad seeing. Hope you like it. 250 best frames out of 1000. Emil
  23. I got a reply from Bresser, Germany that they have put a blue glass filter in the post today. The filter looks green if you shine a light off it at an angle but is pale blue when you remove it. The blotches around the edge indicate the blue glass filter needs replacing as it will get worse. In my post on Saturday I included a picture of the rear of the rear of the red output lens which also seemed to have a cloudy film on it. With the blue glass removed waiting for the replacement it's much more obvious. Danenn posted earlier on this thread of a similar problem so following his lead I removed the orange plate which has the diagonal mirror loosely fixed to it by some foam padding. I originally thought there was a prism inside but it's just a mirror. You can easily see and get to the rear of the output filter then and it was covered in a cloudy film. I gently wiped it in a cotton bud sprayed with Baader Wonder Fluid and puffed a rocket blower over it and the film has gone. Whoop! A clear golden surface appeared. The mirror itself looked ok with no film present, just a few specks of dust which the blower removed. I also thought before, the inside of the diagonal had a white powdery coating on the surface but it is just the metal showing through where the black spray coating hasn't covered it. It does look just like over-spray from the outside coating and isn't intended to be fully covered. Hopefully when the replacement blue glass filter arrives I will get a good improvement in the view. Alan
  24. Interesting Alan that my scope is 0001004 and reflects white (although the filter looks green) White B1200
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