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  2. Yes, I would also be concerned about the scope being blown over in a gale. Perhaps if you kept an eye on forecasts the scope could be stored in a shed etc on those occasions, so most of the time it would be ok outside. The issue of damp affecting the chipboard base is valid. Perhaps the joints could be sealed with white mastic, or better would be to dismantle the base and seal the raw edges with PVA or similar, then the mastic after reassembly. A shower cap each end of the optical tube, plus the dustcap would be good. So with care, outside storage with a good quality cover could work ok. Ed.
  3. I also use the Baader Zeiss prism diagonal in my Tak FC100, but with a 2" nose piece. In conjunction with a direct attachment to the diagonal, of my binoviewers, it gives me a very secure set up and the ability to use all my eyepiece pairs at native focus.
  4. I am using the first one (ZWO) and i am very happy !!!
  5. Indeed it is - a variable binary with 0.3" separation, split by spectroscopic means. I'll track it down next time out! Doug.
  6. Great shots. Is that Io transiting that the IR pass has picked up as a ‘hot spot’?
  7. Hi Folks As per the title. The 11mm is an absolute gem of an eyepiece. Price includes Uk postage. £85 Thanks Paul
  8. Today
  9. One word, Postcrete… sooo much easier.
  10. Hi Carole , cracking pic .. im struggling with the Hubble pallet even more than the normal pallet , as most of the data is normally captured with Ha when you assign to the Green channel , everything is green ! Or at least on my images .. Anyway .... super pic and very nice processing .. Brian
  11. i didn't quite understand you... i need smaller package?
  12. Hi, Tom, and welcome to SGL. Totally agree with Gav. Also be aware that the image will get dimmer with higher magnification (the same amount of light is spread over a larger area) and you will always see more with a small bright image than a big faint one (similar to the way you can read much smaller print in daylight than twilight). In addition, it is as much about learning to "see" (rather than just "look at"), which is a skill that takes time to develop. Enjoy the journey.
  13. True. It never bothered us last time.. apart from the odd, spilt cup of tea.. which we put down to gravitational waves.. but were pooh-poohed.
  14. Here's a scary thought: what if SpaceX mission to Mars gets a catastrpohic end when the rocket collides with one of his many satellites? If we keep filling space with man made objects, this will become a possible scenario.
  15. I don't know ... IKB191? (OK, so that's ",& blue", but you get my gist!)
  16. Congratulations on a fine choice of telescope - you’ll get some great views of the Moon, planets, star clusters, double stars and faint fuzzies with that! The longer the focal length of the eyepiece, i.e. the bigger the number, the less magnification and wider the field of view will be. So, pretty much always start your observations of a target with the longest eyepiece you have, in your case the 32mm, then once centred up and happy, work your way up (or is that down?) the eyepieces, towards the smaller numbers, getting higher and higher magnification. It’s a bit like the gears in a car, start in first gear and work your way up. Be warned, the ‘seeing’ or quality of the atmosphere on a given night, will limit how far you can push the magnification and it is always better to look at a slightly lower magnification but better resolution view through a longer eyepiece. Take your time and enjoy the wonders up there!
  17. I'm a martyr to solar haloes since my wife fitted net curtains to the observatory. Stop sniggering at the back! Seriously though.. how else can you keep curious swallows out? They come in for a quick orbit then back out again. I keep a fly swat handy in case they decide to nest but I think they just like the big spiders. Plays havoc with my solar imaging! Brings a whole new meaning to "a bird in The Sun!" Suit yourselves.
  18. Wonderfully well! Almost effortless because no wet lifting is involved. Improved mix from the rake tines reaching right to the bottom of the dry, then wet ingredients. After half a century of using a spade and making a mess on the ground I felt liberated. The mix is always contained and ready to be transported around the site without further lifting, loading or mess. No more dragging heavy and sloppy buckets around and then having several items to clean including your clothes and Wellies. No more judging how much water to add into a fragile crater ready to burst its contents across the patio or lawn. Add a little water at a time and just keep on mixing. Ideal for post holes. I am only charging £100 for a single [one day only] license for private users of the idea.
  19. For those searching , Σ 1965 is aka Zeta 2 CrB. Find this as SAO 64834 at 15h 40.0m. +36 34'. In the area , the "blaze" star (T CrB) SAO 84129 is always worth a visit, Nick.
  20. Just returned from two weeks in the far north beyond the Wall , it just didn't get dark ! Set up here at 10.30 and a couple of useful hours to get back in the saddle. Tried the Astronomy Now month's star , 20 Draconis. At least it was high and gave a ćomfy view of this 1.1" split. Last time it appeared a smidgen tighter. Seeing was well above good and i managed a lovely .8" split. Just playing about with the Barlow and eyepieces does give different results. A combo of an old school Vixen x2 Barlow and 7.5mm Ultima gave a useful x320. That combined with the "yard cannon" provided some entertainment. Here's to clear skies ! Nick.
  21. Those look like diffraction from mirror clips.
  22. Hi ton, I'm sorry, but I didn't get what did you mean by (reversing the direction till image stabilisation)? Could clear it for me? Thank you
  23. Thanks Michael, but does backlash comes so frequently? I have such lines approximately in every 10min. Does also backlash explain the reversed directions of the stars?
  24. Needs sorting pdq. By products of fungal growth are acidic and can eat into the lens coating . Used to get this in doublet objectives in the air gap. One productive remedy is to gently supply heat so that temperature change year round does not produce humidity. Easiest way is a 6W reptile heater pad, under the ota at the covered objective end and Make sure that the ota is dry when put away. Always check and keep an eye on anything invading gear , Nick.
  25. A 35mm film canister with holes in it filled with desiccant will fit in a 1.25" adapter or a tea ball filled with desiccant for a 2" and larger focuser will help take care of humidity inside the tube while in storage.
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