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  2. Not quite sure with your replies who you are responding to - but I would like to buy it as I said in my previous post. Not sure what next step is as Stargazers Lounge wont allow me to send you my mobile number? Andy
  3. Thanx RL. It was my feeling too. I think it depends on your camera. I have a full frame Canon, but I plan to shoot in narrow band and CMOS/CCD camera. If I go for the Newtonian, then I'll choose the Feather touch focuser. Are you pleased with the Wynne corrector (I guess is the one buit in from OO)? TS are advocating that there my be less lighting with the Wynne system.
  4. Thanks, yes it was really nice to do EAA on the southern sky and enjoy the country side during the day. I already miss that. @RobertI yes all of the images are at the native focal length. I had with me a cheap 0.5X reducer but after experimenting a bit I didn't like much the final image (still a bit of distortions at the edge of the frame). Since I was not really struggling with time in getting images I decided to stick to the long focal length. True my histograms were very much on the left side on sharpcap but just within the "green" area...I didn't want to push my luck with long expositions on the basic tripod. One thing that really surprised me and I don't yet fully understand is how fast it was to get to a final image compared to my observations from London. I have never done EAA on a real dark site so I can't compare but I think the dark sky + the UV-IR filter (needed to remove some red halos around some stars) helped to keep a real black background...and maybe without any background to fight everything shows up faster, is that right? E.g. The Eta carina nebula really shocked me. Essentially, it was already there in the live preview as soon as I slewed to it. Ahh, now I want a dark sky again!! Just realised I didn't mention my software setup. Here it is Synscan App Pro for WIN10 SharpCap pro 3.1 . (Live stacking, Plate solving and to refine GoTo) Cartes du Ciel to pilot the mount. Everything is running on a win10 laptop and it seems fairly stable... Flavio
  5. Now testing with the new cooler replacing the waterblock in the ASC. The camera temperature is slowly coming down. The fan is pretty noisy run from the full 12v. I could do with rigging up some digital thermometer chips for reading temperatures with this sort of testing. With the aluminium adapter ring for the lens and no warm air blowing over the lens it has steamed up. Camera image sensor has not yet got down to freezing - still a degree or so above.
  6. By the way I'm helping my friend turn his 3.2m dish into a radio telescope. Feed -> LNA -> 3m + 1m usb extension (or 5m with no USB extension?) -> SDR. We set it up to point to zenith, but after a lot of tries, we didn't manage to get a signal from the Milky Way (when it was in the beam of course). This is the LNA he's got: https://www.ebay.com/itm/0-1-2000MH-z-RF-Wideband-Amplifier-30dB-low-noise-LNA-Broadband-Module-Receiver/311841967599?hash=item489b3acdef%3Ag%3AFRsAAOSw7R9b~RqO&fbclid=IwAR0I3gdSEr8Iq1Rmx6c_Ik5UFQ7dAeO88tQFFO979QmrLgr0LrrkIOmI-mI We've tried with both GNU Radio (with the averaging option) and GQRX, but no apparent signal, only a tall peak to the right of 1420 MHz (after some investigation we concluded that it is coming from the internal oscillators(?) in the SDR, but it shouldn't affect the detection much). Where do you think is the problem? At 1420 MHz, the LNA has a gain of around 28 dB and a noise figure of around 2.8. Could the LNA be generating too much noise or too little gain for the signal to get through a 3 or 5m RF cable?
  7. There a couple of clones on Amazon nowadays for about £50
  8. Hi everyone! I was lucky enough to spend Easter in Mauritius and managed to get a night of imaging in despite the tropical night time clouds! As someone who lives in the Northern hemisphere, the Carina nebula has always been a target I've coveted, but during my holiday, I also loved Crux as prominent constellation in the Southern sky. So when I ran into polar alignment issues with my Skyguider Pro, I decided to play it safe and go for a wider field, capturing both those targets rather than focusing purely on Carina as was my original goal. This was shot from my father in law's rooftop in Bonne Terre, Vacoas, Mauritius and my basic polar alignment meant significant field rotation, but I still got some usable data. Cropped, processed and finally upsampled. Data was shot at f/2.8 with a 50mm lens, unguided on an unmodified Sony a6500. 174 lights at 30 secs each = 1.4 hours of integration. Bortle 5. From the colours it looks like these objects sit right on the disc of the Milky Way and I know there is more in the picture I haven't mentioned! Thanks for looking!
  9. Altocumulus


    Thank you all. Geoff
  10. I'm not going to make it this year. hope fully next year.
  11. I'm running a very similar rig; a secondhand OO 12" AG12 with a 3" Wynne corrector and FLI Atlas focuser, which is theoretically capable of a 60mm diameter corrected circle at prime focus. It will cope with bigger cameras than I'm ever likely to be able to afford. But the cameras I currently use have an APSC -size sensor which would be quite happy with a 2" coma corrector and fittings. They'e also lighter which is a consideration, not requiring extra support rings on the focuser. The matching filter wheel that came with it takes 2" square filters which is better than a 2" system will do but still would vignette a 60mm circle. I use the big celestron OAG which again vignettes. You can get bigger ones at a price... 3" sounds very good but there is not a lot on the market for spacers, adapters, reducers etc. A lot of stuff has to be custom made which is slow and expensive. You need a friend with a lathe. Just collimating the scope requires a 3" to 2" reducer; one is available off the shelf from TS at 93 euros..... If I were buying new again I would not get the 3" option but settle for the best quality 2" setup I could get. One reason slightly off topic to go for the AG series or TS equivalent is the collomation stability; the spider is machined from solid aluminium plate. RL
  12. Thanks Steve, as for not being easy, you're not wrong there! My current approach to processing is the same as my image capture - a bit rushed. I will have another go at trying to pull out more detail, it may take a while....
  13. artem


    Hello and welcome. Martin
  14. You need two stars about 30 degrees well away from the pole star. Mizar is too close to the pole star to give a really good alignment. You should start with the scope parked which normally means on top of the mount and pointing at Polaris. Best way to do this is check mount is parked, if not park it, then manually slew it to point at polaris and on top. Unpark and it now ought to slew to approximately the right spot.
  15. Boeing are hoping to steel Space X's thunder now, although they are some way behind in testing and readiness. Space X have rekindled my interest in manned spaceflight and they've delivered some breathtaking performance. In view of that, I really hope this isn't a huge or even terminal setback. At least it happened on the test bed without persons aboard.
  16. I had one, works fine the maximum exposures are about as advertised. Nice construction. In all honesty though didn't really feel it was any better than a star adventurer or equivalent. Spring tension er on back is a bit of a pain to get to grips with, polar alignment is surprisingly faffy. ultimately the setup times were exactly the same as any other small system, and no matter what setup you're always going to have other things that need batteries anyway! the ticking is a bit of a pain and it had a habit of stopping in the last 20 mins of the spring wind. But a quality product, def not a toy, but If you already have a Polarie I think you'd regret changing.
  17. Looking at modern DSLRs vs dedicated cooled CMOS like the ASI 1600 I think the read noise and QE are closer than you would think, the real gain is with the active cooling of the dedicated CMOS camera. The 80D for example has a QE of 54% and read noise of 2.7e- against a QE of 26% and read noise of 10.8e- for the old 300D This is a useful site for DSLR sensor information... http://www.photonstophotos.net/Charts/Sensor_Characteristics.htm Alan
  18. No Dave keep your avatar, you are handsome enough, but get a better insurer if yours handles unreasonable terms. Consumer Watchdog might be interested in this. Maybe they've already looked into the argument that people who have gear stolen should have kept it secret, if they wanted it to be insured.
  19. The length of the fins is the same for both so the number x height will give the comparison. LH 16x32 = 512 and RH 27x20 = 540 so the RH one seems slightly better. I could test both.
  20. The CPU cooler I ordered arrived today but the fins are further apart and fewer than I thought but deeper. Whether this is as good, better or not as good as the one I already had I don't really know. I guess totalling up the surface areas of the fins should tell me. Base is the same size. Here's a photo of them both - new one on left.
  21. Today
  22. Hi Linton Out of curiosity, how will you change the batteries on the old version which has non-rechargeable batteries, if you bury it in the base of your dob ? You could make one with a HLK RM04 kit. Info on Connecting to a Telescope on the US Converters website Michael
  23. In time - honoured fashion it's been cloudy except for when I'm working or Moon been full or much too low down for me! I was wanting to enter too.
  24. If this would be your first GEM it may not be a good choice depending on your needs Read some reviews about them, they do have some issues that may or may not bother you Another thing to think about is that the mount is quite tall With the tripod at its lowest position, the saddle plate is around 5.5 feet.
  25. A mirrorless might be worth looking at. There's no mirror slap to cause shake. If Canon ones are like the Olympus ones, the shutter is entirely electronic, just like with dedicated astro cameras, but they undoubtedly have IR filters over the sensors. Then of course, there's the QE which isn't as good as dedicated, but newer cameras by Canon, and other makes have much better noise performance than your old 300D and 350D.
  26. I have not tried it yet but there appears to be a first rate step by step guide that even an idiot like me understands. Try it, it has Stellarium and CDC step by step "Lightvortexastronomy " and the whole EQmod stepup with links to all software. Alan
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