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  2. nice images. Well done. Wouter.
  3. The camera might be listed as an "unknown device" in device manager and then uninstall the camera drivers from there. Reinstall the drivers and capture software and the camera should work.
  4. Hi John, I was editing my previous post with more info and during the process moved from my phone to my laptop as it was easier to type in text more quickly! Sorry if the first version of my reply seemed to end abruptly, it should read better now I hope! Cheers Dave
  5. The full online OED has it as an originally Astronautical usage - earliest citation from 1961
  6. Mark, I have had a terrible time from when I started back in Nov 2017 with cables. I have a Mammut Brightstar which wasn't the cleverest purchase of all time, I asked if it came with an ST4 cable and was told yes. I don't know what cable I got but I wasted two weeks trying to get it working, it was a 4 wired cable, phone maybe, then I bought a faulty camera and had more problems with cables. Now if things don't work I can at least ammuse myself taking 30-60sec subs of things and getting half reasonable results. The annoying thing here is I could easily do 5 min subs guiding, it is dark enough. I will go on to EQmod soon so don't go away, I'm sure that will cause problems. As for redwine, I don't drink anymore, I have over 100lts of rakia in the barn. Alan
  7. Not the usual existential version of the question, but a literal one: I've been struggling with my processing ever since I started, but I'm gradually getting better. Thing is, I opened up PI today to be greeted to a super process of a preview from My M81/M82 Lum integration: But I don't remember how I got here! LOL. Answers on a postcard please!
  8. Playing "spot the Sun" today, very foggy.
  9. I think it is an Americanism or an Engineeringism. I thought it meant "just barely adequate" or "in name only". Like "nominal service" is not good service at all.
  10. Hi - is the mount (not the scope) still available?
  11. I don't like binning colour because I tend to use little or no luminance on the final stars, certainly on targets with starfields on 'empty' background. So I want nice tight stars with good colour close into the core rather than too saturated. On the main question of the L to colour ratio, you'll probably find processing easier if you shoot the same amount per filter. However, if the target has interesting faint signal to bring out then shooting more luminance will do exactly that. You can shoot vastly more luminance to find the faintest stuff but combining it with the colour becomes considerably more difficult. Very strong Lum needs to be added in small interations, the colour saturation increased, the noise reduced and the partial lum re-applied, this process repeated several times. The last application of Lum is done without noise reduction to restore detail. If imaging at high resolution it is worth allowing the seeing to inform your decision of what to shoot and when. If the FWHM values are good, shoot lum. If not, shoot colour. At lower resolution this is less critical. Olly
  12. I do have it one of the mods sent me it and I will have one more attempt at PHD2 then if that fails I will switch. Alan
  13. Hi John, I'm well thanks, hope you are too? I didn't actually have my binoviewers "supercharged", but I did have them repaired, (one of the prisms had become detached as outlined above), cleaned and serviced by Denis. I was very pleased with the work that Denis did for me, and the binoviewers work beautifully now, with great collimation. I'm happy to recommend Denis as a binoviewer expert and I have read good things on CN about his actually supercharging service, which I believe includes full set up, collimation etc as part of his service. I can forward Denis' email address to you (or anyone else that's interested) and he would I'm sure be happy to quote you for supercharging your own bv's.. I believe that can add several mm to the clear aperture of standard binoviewers, which is about 22mm. My Celestron's clear aperture is only around 17-18mm but as the views are so good, and I haven't noticed any vignetting with eyepiece pairs up to 25mm focal length, I haven't felt the need to ask if they could also be supercharged Regarding the performance of my particular Celestron/Baader bv's, I am very pleased with them indeed. They are angled at 60 degrees which I find very comfortable unless viewing right at the zenith, (which I rarely do anyway), and I do like the smooth adjusting sliding mechanism to get the IPD just right: as Peter says above, you do have to re-adjust focus when you change the slider distance, but it's not a big issue at all for me. The build of these German made binoviewers is really solid, typical teutonic engineering, and they do seem to consume a good deal less back focus than other bvs such as Maxbrights. According to one review I read, these binoviewers use only around 14% more back focus than a standard 1.25" diagonal and eyepiece: certainly, I am able to use these on my Tak and Vixen refractors with no OCS/Barlow at most focal lengths, as long as I use short length adapters between the bvs and the scope tube (and the Celestrons are T2 compatible which makes them much easier to source suitable adapters for). Hope that helps, John Dave
  14. Two small spots following AR2738. 3.00 nearer the center of the solar disk.
  15. Just wanted to add my original posting of this image and the new version. The new image has more data, although it was aligned at 90 degrees to the original. Back in October that was the best I could do, looks like I hardly processed it at all At least I think I am getting better.
  16. I'm working on a version of IC1396 with HaRGB, but before that's finished i made this version with just Ha and with the stars removed by the software Straton. This is 177x600s Total 29,5 hours Gear 10 Micron GM2000 UP Takahashi FSQ130ED with 645 0.7x Focal Reducer (f/3.5, 455mm) Moravian G3-16200 FOV has been cropped a little to remove the halo from a big star
  17. Still looking very interesting, hopefully get one more view
  18. Hi All, I am about to sell my trusted NEQ6 which has served me well over the last few years. I works like a dream and i think i'm being slightly silly selling it because it just works day in and day out. Now i'm in the market for a new mount. I do not want to be spending silly money on a mount but i do want to spend on something that will be as reliable. Saying that MESU, Avalon, 10 Micron mounts are out of the door. The only two mounts that do come to my mind. I'm sure this has been discussed to death but the reasons why i have both of these mounts in mind are for the following reasons: 1) EQ6-R (Belt driven, handle for easier carrying and slightly increased payload) 2) iOptron CEM60 (Magnetically loaded gear system, lighter, increased payload) The EC version is out of the question just because i really don't see the point of spending even more money with only limited sky time that we get. My concern around EQ6-R is how good is the build quality, does it (not that i've ever experienced with my trusted NEQ6) the bearing issue, bad grease used, and how good are the belts? My concern around CEM60 is the new balance system. I know it's smooth but i've seen people really have issues balancing this mount and have to add washers and whatnot at the from but on the side of the dovetail to make it balanced. So my question is that is there anything else that i'm not looking at within this price range that i should look at or am missing? Thanks in advance.
  19. JRM

    Just saying Hi !

    Hello Wes, welcome to the lounge. Rick
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