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  1. Past hour
  2. OK. Having listened to everyone's advice, the current design looks like this: I have raised the height of the side walls to 1.5m, and put the necessary 1:40 rake on the roofline. Raised the pier height slightly to maintain reasonable horizons, which helps with the view to the North over the warmroom. I experimented with reducing the size of the warmroom to get better horizons, but within the agreed footprint, you don't gain much horizon and lose a lot of warmroom. Tan(theta) is not your friend. Added an outward opening narrow door to the rear of the warmroom and a sliding door between warmroom and telescope area. Simple hinged end flap that will in some way be locked to the roof and weatherproofed to stop rain getting in. Moved the rails up to just below the wall height to shorten side members of the roof structure. F H Brundle v-groove wheels now intended to go inside the rood frame so that the frame comes out to the edge of the rails allowing a cladding overlap to further weatherproof. Roof only just clears the expected position of current imaging scope, so if I go for a longer OTA, future remote operation could be a problem. I can always lower the side walls again once I have spoken to my metal frame fabricator friend. I plan the bulk of the cladding to be coated corrugated steel as with the @laser_jock99 build. Couple of specific questions: With F H Brundle v-groove wheels, do they come with a ball race, and what size of bolt should be used to secure them? I am planning to run ethernet to the observatory in the same trench as the power. I had assumed that common mode rejection would be good with cat6 and I could just bung it in the same trench, but I have read a number of comments from electrical engineers that you need 300mm separation. I am pretty sure nobody has mentioned that on this forum, so wondered what the practical experience was. We haven't got a lot of noisy stuff connected to the power so I had hoped everything would be pretty quiet. All advice and thoughts gratefully received!
  3. Taken a couple of images of it hoping for more to do a little animated GIF, it's not moving very quickly ATM so hopeful I'll get another go. Dave
  4. I've just bought a 150PDS, I'm sure I had one in 2012!!!
  5. Yes, it also seems to apply to normal photos taken in good lighting conditions, almost nothing seems to look at its best at a 1:1 crop. if I scoot my chair back a little any unevenness in the background (which may be real, there are always stars and dust on the edge of detectability) disappears.
  6. I'll do a proper reprocess of the second one then, and pay extra attention to the background.
  7. I am not sure that it does support ROI, at least I have never found that option on mine.
  8. There are lots of larger brighter deep space objects you will be able to see, for example M42, M45, M44 and the book suggested will be very helpful. Often objects are viewed in medium to low magnification so something like a Vixen vpl 30mm or GSO/revelation 32mm to give the lowest magnification for finding objects.
  9. Led street lights went up in my street and estate a couple of weeks ago. The lights are more directional and point more of their light down than slideways or up, but they are significantly brighter. My garage door now looks like car headlights are shining on it all the time, but the other side of the street away from the lamp post is much darker, or rather it just looks darker in comparison to the lit area. I've not had a chance to measure the effect through a scope since then but I don't need to do any testing to be able to say if you are in the line of sight of any of those new lights your night vision will be severely affected.
  10. And there you have your answer... I think... Cropping in to the image is going to exagerate the 'pixelation', which is what you are sort of suffering here. I use the term 'suffering', but I should be shot for doing so, this is a cracking image, let's not lose that fact in this discussion! I would be interested to see the uncropped original - my prediction is that it will look much less speckly at that size.
  11. Looking for one of these, such as the ADM 7", condition not important so long as it works. Thanks for looking. Steve
  12. Hi. Yeah. To edit full size you're going to need to throw a decent 64bit gaming machine at it. Even with a ssd, to see your edits in real time, you need the tracking (database) files in memory. They occupy around 6Gb, so anything less than 16Gb is going to be slow for full size processing. HTH.
  13. Wow, great deal! Ha ha, yeah M51 & its spiral arms can be elusive I've seen the spiral arms from my back garden with my 15" on transparent nights, but really want to see what they are like from a very dark site. In addition to galaxies, globs & planetary nebs will be amazing with increased aperture!
  14. Even so, if you look at graph with replaced encoder, max error rate is 0.05"/s - which is x4 larger than my calculation above, but still x5 smaller than CEM120EC2 Don't know if all mesu mounts suffer from this and will it be corrected in MK2 - I've seen mention of new more precise encoders on motors.
  15. Where did you get those from, John? I removed my NEQ6 from its pillar last night and it's a pain fiddling around with an Allen key (especially when I dropped the box of keys on the garage floor!)
  16. Which extension tube do you have? I know that it will easily fit to the az mount head eq6 tripod/extension do to the matching bolt size (12mm). Using EQ5 equipment might be difficult because the bolt size is 10mm. On a side note: I also bought a used Giro Ercole AZ-mount. It also fits to the EQ6 tripod because bolt size is 10mm, so screw to fix the mount head goes through the threaded hole of the eq6 tripod. Hope thats not confusing :). best Michael
  17. My bad, I thought in this day and age all EQ mounts would have slip clutches or equivalent. I'll stick to my DSV-2B alt-az and Dob mounts.
  18. Although I do think highly of ASI385, for this purpose I think you will do better with ASI1600. Even if you do short exposures and try lucky DSO imaging. ASI385 is very very good planetary camera, and if you want to try that, then by all means - get it. But in comparison to ASI1600, we are talking significant difference that could, and probably will, offset small read noise difference. OSC vs MONO (I gathered that you have ASI1600 mono cooled). One thing that people often don't take into account - OSC camera can be viewed as one with twice larger pixel size (for sampling resolution calculations) - that has 1/4 QE in Blue and Red and 1/2 QE in green of mono version but can shoot R, G and B simultaneously It's a bit of brain twister to see how it compares to mono version in term of performance. I'm in favor of mono being a better choice in many respects. On a separate note - I think ASI1600 supports ROI, right? You don't need to download and store full frame for each sub - that will lessen load on storage and processing.
  19. No. The field of view is controlled by the size of the sensor. It wouldn't matter about the pixel size. Most digital cameras allow you to change the resolution (pixel size) of the image, but these leave the field of view the same. On some cameras you can use a 640x480 cropped mode which only uses the centre area of the sensor 640 x 480 pixels in size and this would have the appearance of a zoomed in image.
  20. Interesting comparison Wim. I much prefer the classic. The PCC version is swamped with red and the blue almost disappears.
  21. I suggest you read over this: Yes the iOptron plot looks rough but the Mesu site graph is likely not raw data.
  22. Thanks I'll keep trying, I'll, get the app Cheers
  23. If I am getting this correctly, let's assume they have brought out a new camera. If the camera was your pentax, with pixels 4.8 microns across, but the new part was that these pixels could be halved/quartered........down to 1.2, (electronic manual control in increments). Would this mean that the screen image on your pc could look as if it was zoomed in/out, obviously depending on pixel size chosen?
  24. Ok, why not give it a try, although you need to understand that you should not expect get much at all in individual subs at 5 seconds, it requires a bit of faith in the final product. Also pick something bright like M82 for your first try. Adam
  25. Today
  26. Yes, for the unsuspecting it could result in some damage, especially so if you have a longer scope, as the scope can suddenly and very swiftly swing to a vertical position, depending on the weight distribution. (keeping the scope balanced correctly would help avoid any damage) The clamp (threaded wheel) effectively holds both scopes in place, or even just the scope on the primary side if not used as a dual mount. I placed a cloth over the clamp to protect it and then use a set of hand grips and give an extra pinch after I have tightened it as much as I can by hand. Very simple. The clamp has been upgraded to a captains wheel type (still threaded) and this enables much better purchase, thus no need for the hand grips. I now have a captains wheel that was sent to me free of charge by Keith at Altair Astro. So all is good
  27. The second one looks nicer but they all seem to have blotchy green and purple backgrounds? I use gradient exterminator, even on images without a gradient, and its balance background colour always seems to give me good balanced colours.
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