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Also be sure without the air connected to set your zero position on the hand controller, slew so your scope is pointing roughly on top and in line with mount at the pole star, then set zero position. Then when you connect your air, one of the first things I do is "goto home", it shouldn't move as it's already in the zero position, if the alignment is correct it should also return the scope back to the zero position you set on the hand controller if you've slewed it to anywhere else prior. At times I've had the air "reset" the home position causing all sorts of goto errors including causing the scope to kamikaze and point toward the ground. Note usually with the air connected to the hand controller, you don't need to touch the hand controller thereafter, all the control is done in the air app.

I assume you are talking about this thread ? If so, as michael has referred, just know the limitations and don't expect the incredible images you see taken with large SCT's and Dobs. A picture says a 1000 words, so to give you an idea, the following links are to images with my Starfield 102ED refractor + 2x barlow + ASI-585MC. Jupiter and Saturn , Jupiter with Ganymede shadow animation . Remember that that's nearly double the focal length of your 72ED and, crucially, using a high-speed planetary camera. The effective focal length was around 1500mm if I recall correctly, and the ROI reduced to increase frame rate. I've not tried it with a DSLR. Here is my rig I used to image the Moon with the 72ED from indoors, and I note I stated I didn't have enough focuser travel to achieve focus with a barlow. And here is my 102 ED. The barlow is a 1.25" nose piece fit, and both scopes come with a 1.25" clamp fit. Planetary imaging is completely different to DSO imaging; this superb FAQ over on CN helped me a lot in getting started. Pay particular attention to section 6 to establish the best barlow length to suit your scope, camera and seeing conditions. Presently, most of the planets aren't visible. Take a look in the Planetary imaging section too; you won't find many posts being made now, but it is a hive of activity during the season. Hope that helps.

Ah no, forgot. I was racing cloud.

Yes, I have a lot of thin plastic spacers starting at 0.2mm and also three paper ones, each around 0.1mm, I described experiments with them earlier in this thread. I reached a compromise between the coma and radially elongated stars at 1.2mm spacer in total, but I used filter then, I think it was the L-eXtreme. I have to check it again without filters, but not tonight, the setup is at home now due to clouds. I'm happy to see that the Sigma lens is OK, I considered returning it under warranty... There is a very interesting method of setting the iris permanently: Based on a following CN thread I attached the 6D body, set a BULB mode, pressed the shutter release button and... detached the body - the iris remains in the F/1.8 position. That's a great trick! https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/837147-sigma-art-40mm-14-canon-mount-no-aperture-ring/

Great review. It is one of the best value eyepieces on sale. I wouldn't swap mine for anything. I've sold all my high power eyepieces.

https://amzn.eu/d/3kv0drE Sloppy is a good word to use. As soon as you go to lock it down PA is lost! Yes. I had to do a bit of a fix as you say to get it working. I bought a M8 x 20mm thread with a push button ratchet that worked well. I know it’s for fun in EQ mode but I have got some decent images from it. The wedge is just frustrating and flimsy as you know. I take this is the Ioptron one… https://www.firstlightoptics.com/ioptron-mount-accessories/ioptron-alt-azimuth-adjustable-base.html?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw26KxBhBDEiwAu6KXtxoA7i09_s7AiV0qKB67t_C7gp52irh5ZkZ77biFQv4mbmP8is7FvRoCQH0QAvD_BwE Seen the Omegon polar wedge as well if it’s any good?

Have you got any thin spacer rings to put onto the back of the lens adaptor prior to the camera, that's what I'd try next. But before that, just because you don't need anything else to test it, try stopping the lens down at each f ratio and see if it improves. Also I assume you've already checked your 2600 tilt adjustment plate is square to the body and not tilted in any way?

There is not too much to measure, only the ZWO filter drawer. I base on the Sigma 44mm flange distance and the ASI 17.5mm back focus. The ZWO must be the remaining 26.5mm long and it is indeed. I use a high-class vernier caliper which is older than me. I love to use it, even if I have two digital ones.

Great review Michael and certainly yes ,100% a bargain of the century. To put it mildly if one makes use of the 0.5mm settings between the main stops one is getting a very good multi FL EP which accrues to approx £8 for each FL of 0.5mm (if bought at the bargain price of £80). Purists will still want their fixed FL favourite EP's but for travelling and weight an all in one EP, for those on a budget a must have EP which with a pair of quality EPs in the 15 - 30mm range will be all that is required.

I got one today in the post. A nice 3D printed tri bahtinov mask from Ebay seller astrobyorlando. Some testing on my C8 Edge tonight. I've never owned an SCT before now but I got damn as near perfect collimation within a few minutes with this mask. I wasn't far out to begin with but it looks like it does the trick? It may be different with a newt as there are different angles involved?

Oh, yes, the lens is 1.3kg heavy, so I bought a dedicated ring holding it while the Canon or the ASI camera (both around 700g) is just attached to the lens. I wouldn't be worried if I saw marks of the tilt: pinpoint stars along one edge and comas on the opposite edge, but that's not the case.

I would note the ZWO Ef adaptor likely isn't mounted square so will cause an element of tilt, I get it on all my SY135s, the weight of the lens doesn't help. A lot of people have to shim to get it right. Make sure you're measuring with a good quality Vernier caliper too either a manual one or digital, measure each component separately, then again when assembled.

Originally, I wanted to buy a 50mm lens. When I made some research I found that the 50mm lenses are as you wrote above. Then my attention focused on a Tamron 35mm and the Sigma 40mm Art. I had to read a lot to find that the Sigma is outstanding even at F/1.4, better than the Tamron. It's worth the price. I measured the optical path of the ZWO EF/M42 filter drawer using a vernier caliper.

This makes me want more TV items, my wallet will never forgive me! Thank you FLO for posting this, in this image I see a group of great people beaming with passion for what they do, fantastic!.

Yes it should be the opposite. I'm surprised it works pin point to the edge of a FF sensor, most reviews of lenses where they state they're good for astro and you look at the edges they look awful, from experience all the lenses I've used distort at the edges even on FF lenses, though I've never used an Art. How have you measured your distance?

I have to admit that I didn't think about it. But today I didn't use any filter.

Excellent results, especially given the absence of tracking. I'm interested in your prime focus arrangement. Do you mean that you are foregoing the secondary altogether? I'm planning to try out EEVA with my 10 dob on an equatorial platform and your results suggest that great things are possible... Martin

I'm sorry, I don't understand. My full frame Canon 6d gives nearly pinpoint stars at F/1.4 while the smaller APS-C gives the coma. Shouldn't it be the opposite? BTW, I bought the 40mm F/1.4 Art with an assumption to stop it down to F/1.8 or F/2.0, if needed, but rather not to F/5.6.

Which Bresser product? The ioptron one is fine, much better than the sloppy fit of the altitude assembly of the Skywatcher one, you might just have to remove the vixen saddle locking lever for a bolt so the azgti has clearance to rotate in RA, I had to use a normal hex head bolt.

And I take it no concern with the motors back EMF causing enough voltage to fry something?

You've done the sync to mount command after a plate solve?

If you're using it at F1.4 I think you're going to struggle immensely. All my fast lenses need to be stopped down to F3 or F4 to get anywhere near acceptable stars at the edges, maybe even F5.6. The apsc sensor makes this worse as it's a large sensor, I could probably get away with it with my 183 sensor. There could also be a contributing issue of not using fast filters.

Lovely report of your visit. This demonstrates their dedication to their products, and reinforces that Televue products are for life. Good enough reasons to buy from them. 🙂

A bit like Nessie, fuel to keep the conspiritulists going for years.

I had a bit of clear sky and tried out the mount with its updated handset. No difference in goto accuracy unfortunately. Added 30 minutes to M51 but then the clouds came back!