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  2. Nicely done Charl, foggy start here as well, hoping to have a stab at it shortly clouds permitting. Dave
  3. Hoping for a look sometime today, foggy start here as well. Dave
  4. Ok I have read your "MY" detail again still the same SO LONG as you are already using Ascom Mount Driver to control the Meade nothing I said has changed. With Ascom(Alpaca) in place on the Laptop and using Ascom Alpaca Remote protocol you can set any property that Ascom uses REMOTELY (that's where Ascom Alpaca comes in). Because the Ascom Mount Driver properties are exposed by Alpaca you can set its Time,Lat and Long properties from the PI Zero(w) (or any other device) using REST API. Therefore anything that can talk RESTAPI (example Node-red but Python and other languages can too) and that can read the GPS data from the Ublox GPS receiver (so time,lat and long) connected to a PI Zero(for example) can set the Long,Lat and Time on the Windows Laptop Ascom Mount Driver. This would work for ANY Ascom Mount Driver that supports the Ascom protocol correctly. Before your thread/post was created I had,on another project, already set the Latitude setting on a Ascom Mount Driver,running on Windows 10, from Ubuntu Linux AND Raspbian Linux. Admittedly it was just using the Ascom Mount Simulator. See Attached pictures showing simple Node-red set up ,Ascom Profile display and Ascom Set up details - GPS-2/3 are showing details after the Node-red flow(on RPI3B in this case) has set the new Site Latitude value. The above all assumes your Meade mount already uses (or can) a Ascom Mount Driver which supports all the std Ascom mount properties- if not then ignore all It was only just a suggestion so good luck with your project
  5. jgs001

    Hello again

    Thanks all... Ant, mostly if that counts. It's going to take me a while to get caught up with stuff... I suspect things have moved on a fair way with tech and equipment since I last looked at any of it,
  6. Good job on removing the stars! I find that some starless images look really "dramatic" for lack of a better word, and this one certainly doesn't dissapoint either. Beautiful image, thanks for sharing!
  7. nice images. Well done. Wouter.
  8. The camera might be listed as an "unknown device" in device manager and then uninstall the camera drivers from there. Reinstall the drivers and capture software and the camera should work.
  9. Hi John, I was editing my previous post with more info and during the process moved from my phone to my laptop as it was easier to type in text more quickly! Sorry if the first version of my reply seemed to end abruptly, it should read better now I hope! Cheers Dave
  10. The full online OED has it as an originally Astronautical usage - earliest citation from 1961
  11. Mark, I have had a terrible time from when I started back in Nov 2017 with cables. I have a Mammut Brightstar which wasn't the cleverest purchase of all time, I asked if it came with an ST4 cable and was told yes. I don't know what cable I got but I wasted two weeks trying to get it working, it was a 4 wired cable, phone maybe, then I bought a faulty camera and had more problems with cables. Now if things don't work I can at least ammuse myself taking 30-60sec subs of things and getting half reasonable results. The annoying thing here is I could easily do 5 min subs guiding, it is dark enough. I will go on to EQmod soon so don't go away, I'm sure that will cause problems. As for redwine, I don't drink anymore, I have over 100lts of rakia in the barn. Alan
  12. Not the usual existential version of the question, but a literal one: I've been struggling with my processing ever since I started, but I'm gradually getting better. Thing is, I opened up PI today to be greeted to a super process of a preview from My M81/M82 Lum integration: But I don't remember how I got here! LOL. Answers on a postcard please!
  13. Playing "spot the Sun" today, very foggy.
  14. I think it is an Americanism or an Engineeringism. I thought it meant "just barely adequate" or "in name only". Like "nominal service" is not good service at all.
  15. Hi - is the mount (not the scope) still available?
  16. I don't like binning colour because I tend to use little or no luminance on the final stars, certainly on targets with starfields on 'empty' background. So I want nice tight stars with good colour close into the core rather than too saturated. On the main question of the L to colour ratio, you'll probably find processing easier if you shoot the same amount per filter. However, if the target has interesting faint signal to bring out then shooting more luminance will do exactly that. You can shoot vastly more luminance to find the faintest stuff but combining it with the colour becomes considerably more difficult. Very strong Lum needs to be added in small interations, the colour saturation increased, the noise reduced and the partial lum re-applied, this process repeated several times. The last application of Lum is done without noise reduction to restore detail. If imaging at high resolution it is worth allowing the seeing to inform your decision of what to shoot and when. If the FWHM values are good, shoot lum. If not, shoot colour. At lower resolution this is less critical. Olly
  17. I do have it one of the mods sent me it and I will have one more attempt at PHD2 then if that fails I will switch. Alan
  18. Hi John, I'm well thanks, hope you are too? I didn't actually have my binoviewers "supercharged", but I did have them repaired, (one of the prisms had become detached as outlined above), cleaned and serviced by Denis. I was very pleased with the work that Denis did for me, and the binoviewers work beautifully now, with great collimation. I'm happy to recommend Denis as a binoviewer expert and I have read good things on CN about his actually supercharging service, which I believe includes full set up, collimation etc as part of his service. I can forward Denis' email address to you (or anyone else that's interested) and he would I'm sure be happy to quote you for supercharging your own bv's.. I believe that can add several mm to the clear aperture of standard binoviewers, which is about 22mm. My Celestron's clear aperture is only around 17-18mm but as the views are so good, and I haven't noticed any vignetting with eyepiece pairs up to 25mm focal length, I haven't felt the need to ask if they could also be supercharged Regarding the performance of my particular Celestron/Baader bv's, I am very pleased with them indeed. They are angled at 60 degrees which I find very comfortable unless viewing right at the zenith, (which I rarely do anyway), and I do like the smooth adjusting sliding mechanism to get the IPD just right: as Peter says above, you do have to re-adjust focus when you change the slider distance, but it's not a big issue at all for me. The build of these German made binoviewers is really solid, typical teutonic engineering, and they do seem to consume a good deal less back focus than other bvs such as Maxbrights. According to one review I read, these binoviewers use only around 14% more back focus than a standard 1.25" diagonal and eyepiece: certainly, I am able to use these on my Tak and Vixen refractors with no OCS/Barlow at most focal lengths, as long as I use short length adapters between the bvs and the scope tube (and the Celestrons are T2 compatible which makes them much easier to source suitable adapters for). Hope that helps, John Dave
  19. Two small spots following AR2738. 3.00 nearer the center of the solar disk.
  20. Just wanted to add my original posting of this image and the new version. The new image has more data, although it was aligned at 90 degrees to the original. Back in October that was the best I could do, looks like I hardly processed it at all At least I think I am getting better.
  21. I'm working on a version of IC1396 with HaRGB, but before that's finished i made this version with just Ha and with the stars removed by the software Straton. This is 177x600s Total 29,5 hours Gear 10 Micron GM2000 UP Takahashi FSQ130ED with 645 0.7x Focal Reducer (f/3.5, 455mm) Moravian G3-16200 FOV has been cropped a little to remove the halo from a big star
  22. Still looking very interesting, hopefully get one more view
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