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  2. Hello. May I ask for some advice please. I have just purchased my first Telescope. It Is 76_700. Vivo. Reflector Telescope. The following are features and specifications.. Choice of 2 Magnification eye pieces 105x, 525x Aperture76mm (3") Focal Length 700mm. F9; Finderscope5x24 Eyepiece:SR 4mm H12.5 H20mm 3x Barlow lens Erecting lens1.5x I will be using the telescope on a quite Caravan park on top of a very high hill. There are very few lights around so no problem with light pollution. Can someone please give me some advice on what extra Eyepiece and filters. Would be helpful to purchase. I am in my mid sixtys and it takes a bit for me to sink in with focal lengths etc. I have seen lens and fillers on eBay and how do I know what size to purchase, as I am a bit confused with it all. Thank you in advance for any help given to me.
  3. The OGEM has shipped? For the observatory you'll also needs methods to control humidity. Typically either a dehumidifier or a heat source. You'll also likely want a pan and tilt enable webcam for the observatory so you can remotely check things.
  4. Yes indeed Dave! I had a nice little session between the clouds with the aim of spotting Pallas and the view in the eyepiece perfectly matched Skysafari. My goto was bang on, centred it perfectly which made life much easier given the patchy cloud. Not seen this one before and I'll hopefully revisit it to note the movement.
  5. The colours you found in your first rendition are similar to those being produced by a CMOS camera in a robotic rig I host. The blues are rather cyan and the reds very yellow. If you just combine the colours how do the histograms per colour line up? I wonder if you'd be advised to shoot rather more red? The resolution is fine but the colour seems unsettled. Olly
  6. Well having poo-poo'd the practicality of big scopes as recently as 48 hours ago, I've just gone and bought a 300p flextube... I hate this forum sometimes...
  7. Spot on in my book. A really clean, attractive rendition. Olly
  8. Really feisty image with something to say. I like it very much. Olly
  9. Hi Rodd, I really like this image, If I had captured this image (which I couldn't) I wouldn't have been as brave as you are to push the saturation as far as you have. Congratulations on being brave enough to to this as the outcome is beautiful. James
  10. You can test it indoors by fitting a laser pointer and setting it up in the middle of a room, marking the starting spot and then running it for 24Hrs, it should end up pretty much in the same spot. I used a laser spirit level. Dave Here's my result, there are other examples somewhere on here with closer results.
  11. I don't image with a DSLR so I can't be sure about the dither needed to combat colour mottle but I seem to think Tony Hallas suggests at least 12 pixels, so that would be in broad agreement with your research. Olly
  12. The synscan says 12v, so i have an adaptor with the correct 2.5mm pin and adjustable volt which i set to 12 and put it in the wall? Is this wrong? Ill look into sharocap.
  13. If your testing something the set-up must be as tight as possible otherwise the test is pointless. Even if you are intentionally off-setting your PA, off-set it a good amount so you can clearly see errors.
  14. It looks suspiciously like the first example that I received where it was running slower than sidereal time, got it replaced and the new one works perfectly. Also check that the screws securing the saddle to the mount are tight. Dave Gif of the effect here.
  15. This looks great, well done.
  16. They were curved but no bright spots along the length - sorry dumped them.
  17. I have now managed to attach the Pegasus Motor Focuser to the Esprit 150. With the help of the focuser patent drawing I was able to identify some of the features on the bottom of the focuser: A – Threaded hole for grub screw. Not sure what this is for other than to hold a spare screw for the knob fixing screws. If you screw it right in then it hits the spindle and locks it. B – Access hole for knob locking screws. Rotate the knob until the screw is visible, loosen screw and pull off the knob. C, D – Not sure what these are other than to hold the spindle assembly to the focuser barrel. E – Screws to hold the bearings (12 on patent drawing) which grip the metal plate attached to the barrel. F – Tension screw which controls the pressure of the spindle against the metal plate G – Locking knob (221) which clamps the barrel plate and prevents any movement of the focuser. I wanted to remove the coarse knob to attach the motor focuser. However, it was stuck and would not remove easily. I removed the x10 knob (easy), loosened the tension screw F and withdrew the spindle with the coarse knob attached. I put the spindle in a vice (taking care not to grip the plate contact area) and twisted the knob off. Once off it went on and off quite easily, so something must have been holding it. I then re-inserted it into the focuser, re-attached the x10 knob and re-tensioned screw F. I now had a bare end of the spindle to attach the focuser to. I offered up the motor/L bracket and found the L bracket was too long. It interfered with the locking knob G. I removed some material to avoid the clash. I then set the motor position on the bracket and secured it. I removed two M3 screws at C and used two longer screws with washers to secure the L bracket. A locking cylinder connected the motor to the focuser (a selection is supplied with the motor). I connected the temperature sensor, 12V power and USB cable, and I can now control the focuser through its own app, or via Ascom in other programs. The motor is too stiff to allow manual focus via the knobs. You can get a manual control box but it’s quite expensive. I am currently trying to take out backlash by adjusting F, although there is backlash control in the software. I’m not familiar with focuser construction, but I was surprised that it operates by pressure of a bare metal spindle on a flat metal plate. I thought there would be some friction material between them. It remains to be seen whether it can cope with large camera loads at high declination. If not I may have to upgrade to rack and pinion.
  18. Your problem seems more related to a power problem and not polar alignment. What are you using to power the mount ? Sharpcap Pro is an image capture programme that has a polar alignment routine.
  19. RGB only. 4 x 300sec for each R, G, and B filter. No luminance.
  20. SGL 2019 SP 31st Oct - 7th Nov 2019 Main Days Friday 1st & Saturday 2nd. Lucksall Caravan & Camping Park, Herefordshire (http://www.lucksallpark.co.uk/) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Star Party We are excited to launch this years SGL star party. Last year, despite the weather, was the most successful yet with the marquee providing a central hub that brought everyone together. There was fun, there was laughter, plenty of local beer and cider and lots of wind! Hopefully this year we will see a few more stars but even if the weather lets us down, we are sure it will be another great event. More details will be announced over the coming weeks but, for now, please see below info booking info and food options. Lucksall are making some changes to the park this year. The grassy long meadow has been made into proper pitches with electric hookups. If you are staying in a tent for only 2-3 nights you will probably be in this area, which is also hopefully where the marquee will be. We don't know exactly how things will stand as Lucksall are still working on some changes but they assure us everything possible will be done to minimise any local lights . We will also contact any local residents and provide the usual flyers / posters to other campers on the site, encouraging them to use red torches and reduce lighting where possible. Booking Information This year all bookings INCLUDING PODs are being handled via the First Light Optics website. Please do not attempt to book directly with Lucksall as this will likely result in confusion. The marquee was clearly a success last year so this year we plan to make it larger and have heating. To cover the additional costs we have added only £1 per night to the pitch prices PODs If you would like to book a Pod, please contact me (Grant) first to reserve one. Pods are limited so need to be assigned prior to you making your booking / payment. Tents / Caravans There are no longer non-electric pitches available (last year only one was booked so this year everything is electric). To book your pitch please do so here: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/sgl-sp-booking/sgl-2019-sp-pitch-booking.html Food Food can be booked together with your pitch booking or separately closer to the dates. I will send out reminders nearer the time and let you know cut off points. When you book the food, as long as it's under the same name / email address as your pitch booking, it will all be joined together and food tickets will be in your welcome pack at arrival. Friday night is our traditional curry and quiz night. Please book your curry here: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/sgl-sp-booking/sgl-2019-sp-food-friday-curry.html Saturday night is hog roast night. Please book your hog roast here: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/sgl-sp-booking/sgl-2019-sp-food-saturday-hogroast.html Sunday we will have a Sunday roast at the cafe. Please book your Sunday roast here: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/sgl-sp-booking/sgl-2019-sp-food-sunday-roast.html Nearer the time, we will ask people to choose a specific 'sitting' to help the cafe prepare the roast in tables. This worked well last year. Volunteers If you would like to help with the organisation of the star party or volunteer to run a workshop/talk please get in touch. Some tasks aren't glamorous but really make a big difference to the smooth running of the weekend. I.e. a quick tidy-up of the tea / coffee area or helping to arrange chairs is a big help and very much appreciated.
  21. By the way, NGC 4440 was the pretty barred spiral galaxy I was referring to earlier....you will be mine one day!
  22. Hi Rob, and thanks for the reply. The process you describe is what i have done. I installed synscan goto upgrade kit a week ago ish, and when i do the 2-star align, is when the problems happen. The first star it goes to is pretty close, but needs small adjustments to center it. Ive chosen Vega then in east. Then when i goto the next star left again. Dont remember the name. The scope then goes haywire and points down in the ground almost. Guessing 30degrees off or something. Soo i figured i did something wrong with the alignment process. Thats why i started with all these videos and did, as you describe, overthink it. But now i dont know what is the problem. I can also mention that the scope bumps in the tripod legs sometimes when the synscan goes to a position. I look out for this and stop it but. Is there a way to programthe mount to go another way or something to avoid this? What is sharpcap pro?
  23. My my Rodd, that's one of the best M82's i've seen mate. Stupidly good.
  24. Hi Yeah I did use a cls-ccd but that's what caused the red halos around the brighter stars. I've since swapped back to my full spectrum 1100d with another cls ccd fitted. I read somewhere that the haloes problem is associated with certain older cls ccd filters. Hoping the second one might be better and will try again whenever I might get some clear skies.... Louise
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