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  2. Black point should in my opinion be one of the first things yo do so that you can determine how good the data you have without masking it, you will then be able to see how far you can stretch the detail, making it dark hides all that.
  3. I am selling my ES 34mm 68* 2" as it has too big exit pupil for my telescope. Optics are pristine and there is not even little mark on the barrel. The price in total, 140 GBP, includes shipping within the EU and PP fees. Thanks for looking!
  4. Out of all the Morpheus i could easily have talked myself out of the 4.5mm with already having the Pentax. I reakly didn't need both. However, I too will be interested in the comparison. On the occasions that conditions have been good enough for it I have actually found the Pentax difficilt to use. I have successfully used it on the Lyra double double and got all four, but I don't find it easy to view through. I have vague hopes of the Morpheus being a different experience. NB. Yup, I will have the 17.5mm one day, but I had to take them as they came up. The trouble is I can't afford for them all to arrive like backed up buses so I am hoping to get the savings sorted before I spot it.
  5. I have a pair of the Helios 20X100s and I'm very happy with them. The lens caps are a bit fiddly, as is the individual focussing (I would prefer centre-focus binoculars) but they are good to use with or without my glasses. I mount them on an AZ5 manual mount from 365Astro, and use a red dot finder as a location aid. Handily, one full revolution of the mount's control knobs moves the binoculars through the same angle as their field of view (3.2°):
  6. PM sent. Just need to find it. Ade
  7. .... and I blame @JeremyS for the fact I have now been asked to speak at the BAA Christmas meeting.... Helen
  8. I just noticed this post in another topic from Merlin66: It's a long and painful story.... but just let's say JTW are no longer licensed to manufacture the Spectra-L200, and I haven't as yet found a replacement manufacturer. Sounds worrying...
  9. A bit of progress - I've ordered the cable I've also had another look inside and at the lens: How does this look? (I'd rather replace before I put it outside if needs be) I am a little concerned that there is some significant movement between the lens and the collar (not the screw part) - I think there might be a little grub screw? so will have a better look in the light tomorrow. When moving this about I found a loose foam disk - any idea where it should go??? Next on the list is a bracket, and downloading the software... Looking at the weather forecast there's no rush Helen
  10. Still getting to grips with mosaic processing. This is just the L - and only 5x120s in each panel since I faffed around doing RGB capture too. Should really have stuck to L alone. Focus doesn't look great in retrospect - I've been using Ekos' full frame autofocus with the SEP star detection but I think might do better with single star autofocus.
  11. I have a Celestron C8 A SCT. How would I mount my Orion 80mm guidescope to it? The scope has the wide vixen? Style dovetail. No rings. Thanks for the help.
  12. The O3 was without moon, the Ha and SII were with The results I'm chasing are the clarity of detail, nothing to do with the black point, that's the very last thing I tweak There is indeed drift and I have been working on PA - see other thread for the drift alignment I did the next time I went out!
  13. Thanks Baz. Yes, Mizar and Alcor was the first thing I ever looked at through a scope having read about it in a Patrick Moore book. Still have a look at it most times I'm out.
  14. Excellent. The IDAS filter is much better than the Optolong filter for this target, imo. Alnitak is bloated, but that's ok. You have more definition in the dark/weak areas. And you kept the flame separated from the Ha cloud with the Horsehead.
  15. Really like your stuff Nicos, unfortunately I am tired of loking at my 150mm refractor sitting in the garage. It's too heavy to drag out and set up and comparing the weight of that beautiful Tak with what I already have puts me off. If only I had an observatory! I really like the tripod and head, but I must buy a Tak 100DZ first. God luck with the sale, I'm sure it will be snapped up soon.
  16. Have they pure CaF² Objectives ? Brian
  17. Yesterday RM delivered a birthday card from my cousin in New Zealand, postmarked the 17th.
  18. should ask, are the objective barrels still properly square to the body? or has one jumped a thread and so slightly skewed? A pic of the binos in question might help. Its just possible that one barrel just needs to be unscrewed and refitted properly threaded. Shoulda asked that earlier, sorry
  19. I made the transition from a DSLR to mono last year and was initially apprehensive especially with what a lot say “I can’t be doing with all the faff” but does require an initial outlay of some more £££ It genuinely isn’t a faff and with your filters in an EFW this and your camera just connect to the scope and that’s the difference in setup. Image acquisition is just a case of setting a plan up in your software and away you go pretty much the same as an OSC. Processing is more in-depth but the way I see it is there are so many crappy nights that I can’t get out due to weather that there is plenty of time to learn new/practice processing skills. As @wimvb has said you can shoot all filters in one night so as a rough example LLLRGB and just repeat this over and over again ....no need to capture Lum one night Red another etc. Not the most technical post but these were some of my initial concerns before I made the decision to go mono and I’m more than happy with my choice.
  20. Hi Mike any chance of posting the link to one of your posts where you showed some sketches you did? I can't seem to find it, I want to show my wife what you can see with a 100mm Tak.

    I think you were commenting on someone buying an Altair Astro refractor.

    Thank you,

    Martin.

  21. you'll never really get true collimation unless you have access to the correct gear, unfortunately. Best you'll achieve is to correct the alignment for your own eyes and if lucky they'll still work ok for others if using close to the same IPD (inter-pupil distance) as yours. Doesn't sound too far off tho if you're able to use them in daytime, tho might after extended viewing. I had one pair where it felt like my eyes were being ripped out as soon as I looked thru them! Have you adjusted on both sides or just the one? Ideally you want a distinct distant target with bold horizontal and vertical line (A roof or gutter and downpipe say or at night a street lamp) that you can focus on with the binos mounted so they aren't shifting position while you check/adjust. Then try to see how well the 2 images appear on first glance, or better, use a card to blank one objective and see how it looks when the card is removed while looking through them (winking one eye will show the difference too but blanking with a card works better if you can do it). That initial image should show how far out and what direction the 2 sides are from each other. Problem in daylight is the brain can quickly merge if not too far out and they may seem fine. At night tho there's no background data so you end up with doubles of stars offset and then its a strain to get a decent view. Trick is to figure which side is out and then try to adjust it to bring it back into alignment, but that's not so easy as it may sound. Once you're sure the prisms haven't become dislodged then you could try checking the image of the exit pupil in the eyepieces and adjust only the side that is most off-centre. Once you have them adjusted so you can comfortably view without getting eye fatigue, test against a single distant streetlamp and then the stars as a double-check. You'll likely find that a further minor tweak may be needed to get them just-so. I realise those who know real collimation will cringe at the above, but if it makes them useable again for you then it might be worth a go. Just take things slow, don't force the tilt screws and make small adjustment then check the effect and repeat. You should back the tilt screw off if you do need to reseat a prism so you start from a neutral setting and then adjust from there. Do keep track of how far you've moved the screws tho and listen carefully as you don't want to damage the prisms by overdoing things
  22. Having difficulty more than a little bending down making the red dot 'thing' nearly impossible to use for alignment setup, I have fitted a camera piggyback to 130 SLT scope. This is a Panasonic FZ200 bridge camera with a remarkable zoom 1x to 24x at constant f/2.8. Not used for photography as such but to get a star in its cross-hairs before aligning on the scope, instead of trying to use the red-dot. Camera mounted eyepiece-projection is a M4/3 either Olympus E-M5ii or Panasonic GH4; the former has 5-axis stabilisation, the latter a heat sink on the sensor for lower noise. Has anyone else may use of old kit to aid set up alignment?
  23. Today
  24. Looking for one of the above if anyone has one up for grabs ☀ Thanks .... Brian
  25. Managed to get some more colour in the image. Learning the whole processing thing but more luck than judgement at the moment. I will try and get both the colour and the detail/nebulosity when I get a few hours tomorrow.
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