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  2. I have 80mm TS F/6 triplet and that one is a peach (not to be confused with lemon! - ah those fruity metaphors). With x0.79 FF/FR it is brought down to ~384mm and that will give you about 2"/px with ASI1600 (I use the same camera on my scope). Stellarvue might have same scope under their brand - there are quite a few that have been "shared" between brands recently (same Chinese manufacturer but different branding). Yep, here it is: https://www.stellarvue.com/stellarvue-svx080t-25sv-premier-apochromatic-triplet-refractor/ And I think that that one is pretty much the same as this one from TS (one that I have): https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p3881_TS-Optics-PHOTOLINE-80mm-f-6-FPL53-Triplet-APO---2-5--RAP-Focuser.html Anyways, SV says that "their" optics on this scope have above 0.98 strehl, to quote them: " SVX series optics are rated at .98 - .996 Strehl with excellent optical correction for aberrations commonly seen in mass produced optics " I can actually confirm this - I tested my scope (self test with use of win roddier test) and got strehl in 0.98 for red channel (green was a bit poorer at 0.94, and blue the worst - this is to be expected, I did analysis with OSC camera - channels are not quite well separated on it, at 0.8. For proper analysis I'll need to redo it with mono camera and narrow band filters). So that would be very good wide field option in those aperture ranges and budget. However, given budget, why constrain yourself to these apertures? Something in 100+ range with less than F/5 (with matching FF/FR) will give you moderate FOV range / resolution and will suck photons in faster.
  3. Dave Welcome from Land Down Under You travel the universe in this forum John
  4. The Tak prism does this - shorten the path - rather well for me. Nice and light for travel as well. The TeleVue Everbrite is a very nice mirror. TS offers dielectric mirror diagonals by GSO, these are made to a very good spec and work very well: https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p1771_TS-Optics-1-25--TS-Optics-1-25--Star-Diagonal-with-ring-clamb---99----1-12-Lambda.html
  5. Which camera should i go for..... Cant decide Which is better
  6. That thing is quite a heavy beast! Anyhow, I hope you enjoy it!
  7. I reckon I have it about spot on going off this from Zwo. So from my SW FF/FR I have the exact setup as the diagram giving me 56mm. In my EFW I have a Baader Ha filter that is 2mm thick. 1/3 of that is 0.66mm giving me a difference of 0.44mm away from the desired 55mm. I take it I will be ok with this ?
  8. Try Teflon Grease from Halfords: https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-maintenance/bike-lube/bikehut-teflon-grease-125ml I've used it on two GEMs in recent years, works extremely well and won't break the bank! Regards, Chaxastro 'Humour is reason gone mad!' Groucho Marx
  9. Well, I have a design for a hood and I changed the reel on the 3d printer to black, but in doing so I have clearly upset something as the PLA isn't extruding onto the bed properly. I think it's a bed height issue, but I just don't seem to be able to find the sweet spot at the moment. James
  10. I can see...that my gear will never equal the image seen here, which is why I appreciate you sharing this so much!
  11. Last week I went to a place called Thornwick Bay in Flamborough on the East Yorkshire Coast to shoot some time lapse and star trails. It wasn't the perfect night for it although the sky was clear as the moon was quite bright and high in the sky for the whole night. I set up two cameras, my Sony A7Sii and Samyang 24mm f1.4 lens to do a Holy Grail Time lapse and my Sony A7iii and Samyang 12mm f2.8 fisheye lens to do an ordinary time lapse and some star trails. I set both tripods up about 15 yards further in than the tide would go (worked out by deposited seaweed on the shore). I had a few people who showed interest and asked about what I was doing and there was also a couple of families out of camera shot on the right of the beach having a BBQ, they packed up just as the sun was sinking behind the cliff tops when it got quite chilly. Due to the moon being quite bright I had to use a much lower ISO than normal and even with this it looked as though the beach was bathed in sunlight even though it was midnight. Out of all the data I have done a selfie, a star trail image an animated star trail video, a normal time lapse and a holy grail time lapse so I still managed to get a fair bit done in the 4 hours of darkness. I have incorporated all this in the video clip below which can be seen in HD and 4K https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XEqUYNyVVmg
  12. So depending on the seeing they'll quite possibly end up dirty low-down globs... Good luck with it. I don't have much of a window for that altitude from my observatory unless I get medieval on a few trees. I may well do that in time, given that most of them are sycamore and therefore barely above "weed" in status. James
  13. Not sure about the budget yet, but i would consider anything less than $3000. I will mostly do narrowband but I will use it for LRGB for about 30% of the time. The camera will be an ASI1600 with a 4/3 Panasonic sensor. The Esprit looks great, although most of the excellent images I have seen from the Esprit scopes seem to be from the 100mm and 150mm, for example alan4908 's excellent images. This may be because more people have the larger scopes, or they simple produce higher quality because of aperture. I do like the price of the Esprit though... What about William Optics telescopes? Or Stellarvue? Does anyone get good results from these? Thanks!
  14. It’s cleared out here in the last half hour or so. The Obs roof is open, so I hope to be out there imaging in about 90 mins from now. If all goes well it will likely be some more low down globs with the C14. M4 which I’ve imaged once before with the 4” APO and then M19, which will be a new target for me. Both hover around 10 deg altitude from my location, so challenging targets.... Geof
  15. Well, they've done the same with the forecast as last night. Originally clear from 8pm, then 9pm, and now "Maybe not. 10pm ok with you?" It is starting to clear now however. Someone needs to "have a word" about all these aeroplanes though. James
  16. Please send me personal message and we can arrange payment. Andy
  17. I would like to buy this. Andy
  18. Today
  19. From the original post: ”Even with their miserable resolution they are still the most sensitive and offer near live experience opposed to 5-10min stacks of 15-30sec subs. And with advantages like long cable transmission and simplicity of setting up, I still enjoy using mine, even though I got myself a digital one.” I think this describes video astronomy cameras since 35mm film would be nowhere near live viewing.
  20. Be clear in your mind about the difference between 'cropping' and 'zooming.' They are not the same. If, in a given telescope, you want to image small targets in detail it is not the size of the sensor which matters but the size of its pixels. Cropping brings no new details. New details come from having more pixels under the image projected onto the chip by the scope. You also have to be sure that the sky's seeing and the accuracy of the guiding will not blur out these tiny details.) Olly
  21. Hi, It has been a bit of a ride to be honest.. I have had some problems with calibration, but due to lack of astrodarkness here, I have had very limited chances to acquire new data. I do believe I have the calibration problems under control now, so looking forward to late summer / autumn so I can start imaging again. There is some random noise that I just can't figure out, and due to it's random nature the only way I can see to get rid of it is by swamping it with enough signal and then dithering, something I would do regardless. The backfocus has not been an issue yet, but I have a quite slow system @F6.4 and I think it will be a problem when going faster with 1.25" filters. I haven't done enough testing yet, I've had two sessions with it - one with a full moon and one with around 60% illuminated moon and some hih thin clouds.
  22. That's a good enough recommendation for me! Off to the FLO website to order the kit
  23. The widely held assumption that OSC is faster is simply incorrect. It's incorrect mainly because, with OSC, you cannot shoot luminance and luminance captures all colours simultaneously on all pixels (though it cannot distinguish between them.) OSC can only capture one colour on one pixel. Mono can also be faster because it can exploit moonlit nights to capture Ha on all pixels. However, it can be frustrating if it leaves you with one critical layer missing. Red, green bl.... does not an image make! Olly
  24. Thanks for that, I'll check them out. The reason is that the QHY5P-11m has decided to cease most functionality. It records light passing over it but cannot sustain more that about 0.1 FPS - no idea why so I'm trying to investigate the causes (it used to work fine but has been dormant for 2 years or so before trying again recently) with a new laptop. It is also usb2 which compared with the 178c is just way too slow. The 178c is a good camera and has given some pretty good results on Jupiter but for solar in particular and in mono mode, it is not sensitive enough. Colour on the sun is a waste of pixels imo. So, all in all it's time to move on and hence my question. Thanks for the comments
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