Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.


All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. Long focal lengths require really good tracking and guiding. It's not something you want for a first scope for AP. When your starting getting everything tuned with a 600mm frac is hard enough. There's so much to image between 500-600mm , to the point where some objects are too big even for that. Long focal lengths are hard to guide Really fast scopes are tricky to focus and tune. Neither are where you wanna start your journey into AP. Theres a good reason something like the SW ED80 is a popular scope. It's punching above it's weight in quality and it's very forgiving when you start. If you go too long or too fast you could end up frustrated and spend most of your time getting setup.
  3. Just to add, there are pros and cons to using camera lenses with smaller sensors. While much of the image circle is wasted lens aberrations and vignetting are less noticeable because the corners are cut off, sometimes the lens needs to be stopped down half a stop less which produces a brighter image. Also, depending on the target, the smaller field of view may not be important. The 1600MM Cool, with its small pixels, is a good match for lenses in the 135mm-200mm range. Even 135mm is enough to resolve good detail on many DSOs, note the dust pillar on the head of the Pelican in the image above.
  4. The Rokinon 14 f2.8 (or Samyang, it's the same lens), is a great lens for nightscapes and widefield images of the milky way. To help you with your budget, it's quite easy to find one used, just in this case check which version you find, as there are quite a few around (at least for the samyang). I noticed that the Field is not fully flattener (can be expected for such a lens) and stopping down a bit improves star shapes. Fabio
  5. A bar on the ground floor?. I'd never make it to the scope, because the stairs on all floors don't connect.
  6. Just tested the top of the case that was sealed and found a leak. That part was not as well sealed as the other parts.
  7. alan4908

    Deep Sky III

    Images taken with a Trius 814 and a Esprit 150
  8. Hi. I removed the list; hijacked threads. It's sad when equipment becomes more important than astronomy:( Cheers
  9. Hi David, Try this with your ASPS. Try to RUN the ASPS as ADMINSTRATOR.. Klick on ASPS ICON and then with your Mouse LEFT BUTTON and then RUN AS ADMINISTRATOR and then try to solve the image you have. you need to perform this action only once, once SOLVING works and also the LOG-FILE is created, you can start to use ASPS normally " not as ADMIN " Try it please.. And please do not forget to install the INDEX FILES for your FoV.. Good luck Martin
  10. It was Chris, thanks. I was a bit surprised there wasn't more colour too, same for Izar. Not sure of the reason as the transparency looked pretty good.
  11. Today
  12. Good fun Stu! I use my ED80 for similar quick sessions sometimes when I've got an early night, or we've got guests wanting their glasses refilled. I'm surprised that Algieba was bleached out with the 62mm - with 80mm the pair are definitely orange. Chris
  13. Mine must be fiftheen years old its the single best accessory I ever bought. It looks battered but works like new.
  14. When I popped out to put the bins out and make the bunnies fox proof last night, I noticed the sky was very clear and dark ish for round here. The weapon of choice for this, another of my micro sessions was the Tal Alkor 65mm Light Thimble, on my Ercole mount, and I just thought I would grab a few doubles before my dear lady questioned my absence! Four doubles; Algieba, Castor, Polaris and finally Izar. The Alkor has three options for magnification, x33, x88 and x133. I used the lowest as a finder power and them switched to highest. Algieba is a mag 2.2 and mag 3.6 pair at 4.6" separation. Their colour is listed as orange, but they appeared white to me. For such a small scope, the rendition of the stars is wonderful. Beautiful bullseyes with one diffraction ring. They were clearly separated and the magnitude difference was clear. A lovely sight. Castor was not dissimilar actually. 1.6 and 3 magnitude with a 5.2" separation, again beautifully resolved as two white, uneven bullseyes. Polaris was much more difficult, to begin with I didn't think I would get it, but on a few occasions when the seeing stilled I caught the tiny mag 9.1 secondary, right on the limit for this scope under my conditions. The Mel Bartels calculator gives between 8.8 and 9.8 for this aperture under mag 18.5 skies, so I'm confident it was doable. So finally Izar, a good challenge for the Light Thimble! Again, when I first looked I couldn't detect the secondary, just an unsteady diffraction ring. However, after careful focussing and observing for a little while it was clear that the secondary was buried in the diffraction ring (I've seen this effect on Izar before) , and was present in the correct position (verified later). One trick I've tried with the Alkor before is to pull the eyepiece out of the extension a little and the extension out of the Barlow. This gives a bit more power, I'm guessing at x150 or x160 and the secondary became clearer once I had done that. I didnt get the same sense of colour as I do with a larger scope with these two, the secondary just looked duller than the primary but I was just happy to get it at all. This scope really is amazingly sharp, 60 times mag per inch or there abouts is pretty impressive, and the star shapes are way better than many larger dobs I've used. Without making any permanent changes, I've removed this Alkor from its normal mount and fitted it with rings, albeit Munsen rings which are the only ones I could find to fit! Fitted to a short dovetail, it rides on a standard mount very nicely. I've also fitted the shoe for a Rigel finder which makes life much easier than the standard two part rifle sight. So, another something and nothing report from me, just trying to keep my eye in and enjoy a challenge with whichever scope I manage to get out for 15 mins
  15. Hello James and welcome. Peter
  16. Man seeing that image on my work pc... Background really sucks! I can find a flat no problem, I am still working out how to best calibrate the data in APP.
  17. Thanks for all the reply’s, I have been looking at various lenses for the last day and must admit I have read that much I have confused myself with many reviews I have read. I do find myself drawn towards a Rokinon 14mm F/2.8 and should get me around 94 degrees on my crop sensor. I know that totally smashes my original £100 budget but semis to tick all the boxes. Opinions on this lens and others appreciated.
  18. The field of view with the 1600MM Cool is a bit smaller than a DSLR due to the smaller sensor, here's two images with a 135mm lens that shows the difference: (~20 minutes @ f2, 7nm Ha filter, 1600MM Cool) (22 minutes @ f2, 12nm Ha filter, 1100D)
  19. Nicely imaged. Fascinating looking object isn't it? Ghostly is the word I'd use to describe it. Were the stars difficult to keep from 'blowing up' during image processing?
  20. SIDO

    Hello from Dorset

    Welcome James, Sounds like you have new friends close by...Enjoy the journey Freddie...
  21. Stub Mandrel could well be right, it's easy to align on the wrong star. Sometimes I use a laser pointer to check the scope is pointing where I think it is, if I can find a straight edge on the mount to rest it against.
  22. Of course, it depends on exactly what length lens you are using, but with a standard 50mm, the 1600 has a fov of 20x15 degrees.
  23. Also diy anti vibration pads can be purchased as rubber furniture leg coasters or any bits of rubber about 1/4 to 1/2 inches thick to place under the legs, this will help to cancel vibrations and I highly suggest doing this as well hanging a weight as Demonperformer suggested just be sure the weight is not so heavy as to damage the tripod. Dont forget the used market for a better mount when you get about the finances for one and again, Best of Luck and Clear Skies of course... Freddie.
  24. My insurer will insure all my astro gear ... as long as it is indoors. Once I take it out of the front door, it isn't covered. Really useful! This is why I decided a couple of years ago to set up my own "astro insurance" fund. I've earmarked one block of shares as "astro insurance" and if I lose anything, then they will cover the cost of replacement. Plus they have been steadily increasing in value at just over 10%pa (over the long term), so that is an added bonus compared to the money-pit that paying insurance premiums tends to be.
  1. Load more activity
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.