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  2. I bought this very scope in order to cannibalise the Starsense unit (which is fantastic by the way). The tripod and mount are next to useless, but the F10 achro optics are actually pretty good, with a passable focuser and RACI diagonal. It’s mostly plastic but very lightweight. Before I removed the Starsense, I mounted the scope on a decent mount and had a nice time using the Starsense app to guide me to various DSOs and doubles. The Starsense now sits on my 102ED but I have kept the 70mm OTA for lending to friends.
  3. Final test before going anywhere. Preparation for M81 and M82. The small rig contains an ASI2600MC-Pro and a Carl Zeiss Jena DDR 135mm F/3.5 @ F/5.6. The lens is thanks to @Franklin, while both an ADM clamp and a long Losmandy plate are thanks to @steppenwolf.
  4. have a spring clean out sale Louise, but first spend sone time figuring exactly what you want then gear yourself around it, I will give you my pre-requisites that led to my choices. Lightweight overall Able to carry good payload mount (without counterweights, refer to point one) and also lightweight itself (only 5kg) Reasonable aperture (150) and suitable for suitable for spectroscopy All in one system able to operate via tablet/phone Simple to operate I am no expert, anything but however my setup allows me to do what would be unthinkable a few years back, especially to a novice such as I. Given what you say, I feel points one and two above should be of particular interest to yourself. Not sure about the rest but that was important to me. Oh and my powertank is Lithium/Ion type, much better in cold weather and no charge memory issues. Cheers Steve
  5. Today
  6. I'd buy new just to avoid hassle, but I believe you can contact Celestron if you run out of activations. Hope so. I used 3 goes trying to get a phone that worked, a 4th on my daughter's iPhone and the 5th on my pixel after they released a patch because despite it being compatible it did not work! Might email them tomorrow actually and check. I'll report back. I got the az80 cause it was on offer at flo, but it is absolutely worth it I think. If you need a mounting solution for another scope and don't have a 3D printer, let me know and I can do one for cost + postage + hobnobs. Someone is selling my design for £28 on ebay (rip off, but nought I can do) but I rattle them out for about £8 (inc postage). If you do have a 3D printer, go for this one: https://www.printables.com/model/559841-starsense-explorer-finder-shoe-mount-holder But back to your question, it's brilliant. Provided your phone is compatible (iPhones just are, android is a bit hit and miss, but pixel phones now work). The app is a bit weak though. You cant save observing lists so you just need to search for each target in the software. I think iPhones can integrate it with sky safari but I've no idea how good/bad that is.
  7. Yesterday
  8. Starsense is revolutionary! i can’t imagine surfing my way around the sky without it, anymore. If it has the module mae sure it hasn’t been activated on more than one or two other phones, confirm how many it allows for as I have forgotten and am not home at the moment. I did a real short bideo on youtube for the purpose of demonstrating to a friend how it works, i will include link below.
  9. I bought these and some m12 threaded bar, nuts and washers. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08542NQ4Y?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
  10. In short, yes! It works really well, I bought a new LT80AZ on offer, mainly just to get the StarSense. I have used it to good effect on my other refractors, it is very accurate. You just need a method to mount it on your scope, which is not too tricky to sort in these days of 3D printing. Actually, I must try it on the 16”!
  11. I've been doing some experimenting to try and find the right values for gain and offset, having watched a video done by Cuiv. Sharpcap sensor analysis shows that gain 300 is where the S/N ratio drops so I understand that, though this translates to gain 150 in NINA with HGC enabled due to the way that Sharpcap calculates it for Altair TEC cooled cameras. Do the below figures look to be the right ballpark? Cooled to -5 on the bench Gain 150 with HGC mode enabled Offset 260 Exposure is 0.0001 (is this to fast?) Minimum pixel value is 6 Thanks Ed
  12. You can try Skeye as an alternative. I've dabbled not to much success, Starsense is supposed to just work.
  13. Thanks Jeff, the telescope seems quite decent, although it requires careful attention to collimation, and the standard coma correction turns out to be a bit insufficient with a large sensor. Even in my ASI 183 camera, it happens that the outer parts of the frame lose precision due to coma.
  14. That sounds like borderline illegal product design! You can't factory reset it? After 4 phones it is a dead parrot? I am going to get the EU to ban this ludicrous e-waste (after I have bought one).
  15. what's a good test subject for focus/tracking that's up? everything seems very small in stellarium on a 200mm crop sensor. ngc7000 NA nebular if its high enough?# cheers for any suggestions. not keen on globular clusters
  16. New or second hand? If the latter, make sure it hasn't been activated on too many other phones. I think it allows up to four. There are several members who have bought AZ70s solely to cannibalise the Starsense for other scopes, and they seem to think it was worth it. There's a thread somewhere on their efforts.
  17. Our local Astro club meet tonight, and a very good showing. Of people, not skies! Forecast clear, so it was when I started setting up. Literally the exact moment my scope touched the mount, I heard pat-pat-pat on my jacket. OTA back in the car for half an hour or so, then it seemed to clear. As we were all back out and I’d just done my alignment, the heavens truly opened! So what did I see tonight? Just Alcyone, my 1-star align. All kit, OTA, eyepiece, diagonal, finder, lifepo4, handset etc etc now arranged on my table, dabbed down with towel and drying. Magnus
  18. Well, I'm sure the optics are fine, but I have my doubts about the focuser and the mount, but most importantly there is a StarSense module attached to the Celestron AZ70. Is StarSense really that great?
  19. A lovely evening spent comet chasing. I wanted to capture something of comet Pons Brooks before it disappeared under the horizon, so with mixed weather reports I headed up the northern part of the village with a clear view to the north western horizon with my dslr and 50mm yongnuo lens (not the best but my longest focal length prime). The clouds were stubborn offering few breaks but enough for me to get the lens in the right area and eventually the clear spell arrived and manged to get some images, experimenting with higher iso. It was showing up quite nice with its green and white glow of the coma and onto the faint white tail. I was so pleased to get something of it especially with the hour shift in the clocks this weekend and it getting even lower to the horizon. So possibly my only chance to to bag it. Sadly I forgot to take my binos with me (maybe tomorrow if its clear again). A superb view of Orion chasing the Hyades, Pleiades to the west and towards the horizon for it's departure. I came home very cold fingers and toes but with a warm glow inside for eventually seeing Pons Brooks. If the images are any good I'll share them in the imaging section. Clear skies Lee
  20. From my experience a lot of them suffer from internal reflections hence make the sun bloom reducing contrast, even the TV plossls I've used three of the range. ESs are okay, Celestron Xcel LX are very good (a reason why Ive kept the 12) and the best one I've used, surprisingly a WO 9mm SWAN. Haven't tested on a Lunt but I got the same results via a Coronado PST and a Quark.
  21. I use one of these (available in other guises): https://www.firstlightoptics.com/ovl-eyepieces/hyperflex-72mm-215mm-eyepiece.html
  22. Hey folks - Bruce J Richmond, VA - There's probably a post somewhere about this but I'd like to control my Meade LX 90 from inside the house which means a camera and whatever cabling is necessary to accomplish this - If one of you nice folks could point me in the right direction I'd really appreciate it. BTW the scope has 2 AUX ports on it and my laptop just has USB ports and a HDMI port. Great to be part of this group - Thanks for your time,
  23. It's why I suggested large washers and flanged nuts, they lock tight and don't move easily. I did mention use an all thread bar, it wouldn't work on a smooth bar as there's no thread for the nuts to screw onto either side of the weight plates. You can also line the contact faces of the washers with adhesive rubber to add further friction, paired with the large surface area of large washers should be sufficient grip. Or you can bind the weights all together and pack the centre holes. There's lots of ways to go about it.
  24. An 11mm Tv plossal seems to be the only eyepiece I need and it gives by far the best view. My ES 82s were good, but not that comfortable in the LS50. Neither my Baader IV zoom or SvBony 3-8mm zoom reach focus.
  25. The 6inch Bresser Messier Dobsonian looks particularly good value at £234.90 down from £345! An excellent mounting plus a 2 inch focuser.
  26. I have always binned my Lodestar Pro in 2x2 - its has always worked well. This afternoon I sat down and read the up to date instructions from the creator of PHD2 and the old advice of binning 2x2 and slightly out of focus stars being preferable has been superceded by a new advisory that having small, tight, percetly focussed stars is preferable. So I changed the binning to 1x1 as the Lodestar pixels are huge and I was expecting smaller, tighter stars. Instead I got double and even triple stars - see attached image. I tried all available drivers - ASCOM and non ASCOM and got the same results. It was very poor seeing but when I switched back to 2x2 the stars were single round points - but bigger as expected. I vaguely remember reading some where that a specific driver is required or the firmware of the camera updating to avoid a similar problem. Any suggestions ?? I would really like to try 1x1.
  27. Hello all As the title says, the sesto senso won’t connect to the Intel NUC on windows 11. I have downloaded the correct drivers (I think but maybe I have done something wrong?) and I have the correct 12v supply. In device manager, there is no “other devices” section and under the COM section it shows COM3 and I believe that this is the one that focuser is connected to. Also, In Bluetooth and other devices in settings, it appears that the focuser is FT230X Basic UART. what am I doing wrong, and how can I fix? many thanks, Josh
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