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Interesting list of updates on the synscan pro update just released, I've installed it and just need the sky to clear

I'm hoping to have the funds by the end of May, touch wood. I'm still not sure what to do. I'm currently thinking, maybe a 12 inch solid tube dob that I can easily set up on my own, and a 16 inch that can easily be set up by two people, if needs be. Maybe go all-in on StellaLyra, with the 12" solid tube and 16" truss? Though I am also still tempted by the Celestron StarSense for the 12 inch scope, and am warming to the idea of actually making use of the StarSense feature. Some folks seem to find it a joy to use, and it potentially would be the scope I use the most. One thing for the StellaLyra scopes is they look good bang for buck. Those sizes come with right-angle finders and dual speed focusers, for example. Though we do have a good spare focuser. And FLO's customer service is great. Against OOUK, some negative comments on their customer service I've seen on SGL bug me. I'm feeling more positive about GSO mirrors after reading multiple positive comments. I thought I'd ask ChatGPT as well, and have a bit of fun asking! My convo with the AI is below. The strength and IQ thing is just me being a bit silly and wanting the AI to not go lighter than I'm fine with, and the IQ was a silly reference to a joke I made in the lounge. I like the idea that I should consider buying the 13 mm Ethos! 😁 ----- LukeTheNuke: What is the best lightweight telescope option brand and model with the largest aperture that has no single part that weighs more than 25 kg and that can easily be moved and set up by one adult male of above average strength and intelligence, with an IQ of 404? PS make it a big one. ChatGPT: The best lightweight telescope option with the largest aperture that can be easily moved and set up by one person would be the Sky-Watcher S11530 Maksutov-Cassegrain Telescope. With a 127mm aperture and weighing just under 9 kg, this telescope is portable and easy to set up solo. It also offers excellent image quality and is a popular choice among amateur astronomers. LukeTheNuke: What's the lightest 16 inch commercially available telescope? ChatGPT: The lightest commercially available 16-inch telescope is likely the Meade LX65 16" ACF telescope, which weighs around 135 pounds without the mount. LukeTheNuke: What's the lightest 16 inch dobsonian telescope on the market? ChatGPT: One of the lightest 16 inch Dobsonian telescopes currently available on the market is the Sky-Watcher Flextube 16" Collapsible Dobsonian Telescope. This telescope features a collapsible design that makes it easier to transport and set up compared to traditional solid-tube Dobsonians. It weighs approximately 93 lbs (42 kg), making it relatively lightweight for its size. LukeTheNuke: Does that weight include the base, or is it the OTA only? It makes a difference to my back. PS I already had one of those [sigh]. ChatGPT: The weight typically refers to the Optical Tube Assembly (OTA) only and does not include the base. It's important to consider the total weight when carrying or transporting the equipment to avoid strain on your back. LukeTheNuke: Tell me about it! That's why I sold the Sky-Watcher Flextube 16" Collapsible Dobsonian Telescope. Are you sure there isn't a lighter one than that? Do you work for Synta? ChatGPT: I'm sorry, I don't work for Synta or any telescope company. The Sky-Watcher Flextube 16" Collapsible Dobsonian Telescope is definitely a heavy and bulky telescope, which is why you may have decided to sell it. There are definitely lighter options available, such as smaller Dobsonian telescopes or other types of telescopes like refractors or compound telescopes. It really depends on your specific needs and preferences. LukeTheNuke: What's the best refractor for me to get that weighs less than a Sky-Watcher Flextube 16" Collapsible Dobsonian Telescope but will give equivalent views of deep sky objects? PS are you a frac or dob type of person? ChatGPT: If you are looking for a refractor telescope that weighs less than a Sky-Watcher Flextube 16" Collapsible Dobsonian Telescope but can still provide equivalent views of deep sky objects, you may want to consider the Takahashi TSA-120 or the William Optics FLT 132. Both of these refractors are known for their high-quality optics and ability to provide crisp, clear views of celestial objects. As for whether I am a refractor or Dobsonian type of person, I am an AI digital assistant and do not have personal preferences. It ultimately comes down to your own preferences and priorities in terms of portability, ease of use, and desired viewing experience. Both refractors and Dobsonian telescopes have their own strengths and limitations, so it's important to consider what factors are most important to you when making a decision. LukeTheNuke: Well I'll tell you what I want, what I really, really want: the largest dob that won't give me a hernia. My budget is about £5K. I currently have a 10 inch GSO dob, which I find very light. I'm looking for something bigger, but not as heavy as the Sky-Watcher Flextube 16" Collapsible Dobsonian Telescope. What do you suggest? I know you're an AI digital assistant and do not have personal preferences, but if you had to buy a telescope today, for up to £5K, that wouldn't give you a hernia if you were a human (please use your imagination), what would you get? ChatGPT: If I were to recommend a telescope within your budget that is larger than your current 10 inch dob without being too heavy, I would suggest looking into the Orion SkyQuest XT12i IntelliScope Truss Dobsonian Telescope. This telescope has a 12 inch aperture which will provide you with increased light gathering power and better viewing capabilities compared to your current 10 inch dob. The truss tube design also helps to reduce the overall weight of the telescope, making it easier to transport and set up compared to the Sky-Watcher Flextube 16" Collapsible Dobsonian Telescope. This telescope is also within your budget range and should be a great option for upgrading to a larger dobsonian telescope without the risk of giving yourself a hernia. LukeTheNuke: What would be the biggest option for upgrading the Orion SkyQuest XT12i IntelliScope Truss Dobsonian Telescope that would be without the risk of giving myself a hernia? That one sounds like a winner! ChatGPT: One possible option to upgrade the Orion SkyQuest XT12i IntelliScope Truss Dobsonian Telescope without the risk of straining yourself would be to invest in a motorized equatorial tracking mount. This would allow you to automatically track celestial objects as they move across the night sky, eliminating the need for manual adjustments and reducing the physical strain of constantly moving and adjusting the telescope. Additionally, you could consider upgrading the eyepieces and accessories to enhance your viewing experience without adding significant weight to the telescope. LukeTheNuke: Ah, cool. I mostly use the Tele Vue 21 mm Ethos eyepiece. What eyepiece should I upgrade it to that will make the Orion SkyQuest XT12i IntelliScope Truss Dobsonian Telescope really sing? ChatGPT: If you're looking to upgrade from the Tele Vue 21mm Ethos eyepiece for your Orion SkyQuest XT12i IntelliScope Truss Dobsonian Telescope, you may want to consider investing in a higher quality eyepiece that can provide better clarity and resolution. Some popular options that many astronomers recommend for this telescope are the Tele Vue 13mm Ethos eyepiece, the Explore Scientific 14mm 100-degree Series eyepiece, or the Pentax XW 14mm eyepiece. These eyepieces are known for their excellent performance and can help enhance your viewing experience with your telescope. Ultimately, the best choice will depend on your personal preferences and budget.

Further to my entry yesterday where I stated that it was fine on windows 11, I stacked a few from last night and tried the programme, it failed like others reported. I then loaded it into photoshop and did a few curve stretches, saved it back into original folder. Tried the Graxpert again, worked without error.

@Bivanus Thank you again for the link, I got it on Kindle to see how it went, have now ordered the paperback version.

I would also note, that while you mention wanting to view the planets (as above, better in the second half of the year), it is also not astronomically dark now until around 10:30pm so deep sky objects will be better after this time. Unfortunately, we are not too far away from no astronomical darkness for a few months in the UK, not that it has ever stopped me before.

While planets are porely placed at the time, there are a couple of deep sky object that are a must for any beginner! Right now, towards the Western horizon, you should be able to find the Pleiades (and your telescope should frame them neatly, if you have a ~25mm eyepiece)! They are bright enough that you can see them even before it gets very dark. They are roughly between the constellations of Taurus and Perseus. A good planetarium software, such as Stellarium, will show you the way. Otherwise, another favorite of these time of the year is the Beehive cluster, up in Cancer - that's visible until later! Try and tell us how it went

Very impressive work! Looks pure class, and yep smooth movements are so important at the EP 😎

It's a bad time for planets currently. Jupiter disappears in the evening twilight while Saturn and Mars are just above the horizon at sunrise. But don't worry, things get much, much better in the second half of this year! If you download an app like Stellarium, you can find out exactly which planets are visible from your location. Clear skies!

How bad is you astigmatism? I have + or - 2, can’t remember, I find I can use 18mm er but 20mm is more comfortable. Good to hear this ep did not need any modifications to see the whole view

With all the clouds it’s difficult to see anything at the moment. Maybe someone else can verify but I even on clear nights, seeing conditions have not been great. I have been enjoying various clusters but struggling with faint objects and anything that requires high magnification, made worse by the fact that the fact I observe from a light polluted area. Best of luck to you!

What size is the core of comet A3 Tsuchinshan-ATLAS i haven't seen any information.

Only Jupiter and Uranus are evening objects at the moment and they will both have set by 9:30. All the other planets are currently morning objects rising just before dawn.

I've yet to notice the EOFB in the APM. Of course, I'm generally not under dark skies like Mt. Pinos where I might be able to detect it.

I recomposited my 12mm to 14m UWA eyepiece ruler images together so it's easier to see the differences in presentation. It's also obvious which have objectionable SAEP. All are sharp to the edge at f/6.

I find the APM 12.5 to have noticeable and objectionable edge of field brightening. That's too bad, since otherwise it's fine. The 12.5mm Morpheus is a great eyepiece--sharp, great contrast, easy to use. It's also lighter than the APM. It's an easy choice, IMO.

I use the mount so infrequently that way, meaning manually with slow motion controls in a not-motorized session, and when I do I am turning the knobs very slowly and very little anyway that I am not concerned. I have spoken to Derek on the phone about using the slow motion controls with the motors installed and he said basically not to turn them with the power on because the belts can be damaged but that I could use them with the mount powered off if I am OK with the resistance (which I am). He never said anything about turning them with the motors off being bad for the mount or that it was a frying risk, that it simply was not as fluid as an experience as it was before I installed the motor kit on my mount. I may be wrong and I may have misinterpreted what he said, but I never felt that he was telling me not to use the slow motion controls with the mount powered off, but instead he was telling me that there would be resistance in the system where before there wasn't. I think that the verbiage from the manual specifically "If the mount is powered off the slow motions can still be used but..." strongly implies that it is fine to do so they would not say that they could still be used if it was bad to do so, and that "therefore it is recommended that the slow motions are only used manually when the mount is powered on and the motors are turned off on the webpage" is telling us that if the mount's slow motion controls need to be used with the mount powered on that the motors have to be turned off first before doing so.

From what I've read/seen so far, I understand that the principle behind the tri-Bahtinov mask is that collimation (tilted mirror) results in a tilted focal plane, which spreads best focus for a star in different directions. But so, in a way, does tilt in the focuser or camera. So I wonder if it's even possible to distinguish one from the other. I will test more when astro darkness returns in August. Atm my telescope is in summer storage.

Hello and apologies if this is a silly question. Am finding all the advice and insight really helpful but am still struggling. I live in the east midlands in the UK and have been trying to observe since January. Now that the weather has improved I have been getting my Skywatcher 130m EQ2 out to try and see things. Although I have seen great detail of the moon, I have not managed to see much else. I accept this likely due to my lack of experience but I was wondering whether due to the time of year I am probably not able see much between 9:30 and 10:30 at night and need to wait until a lot later. At this stage I really want to see the planets before exploring anything else. Grateful for any advice. Cheers

Hi everyone, I have run into a bit of trouble after taking apart my C8 to install an EAF electric focuser. the previously installed feathertouch focuser isn't compatible with the EAF and after taking the feathertouch of the OTA, I am left with nothing but the bare focusing bolt that's attached to the mirror. I can't attach the EAF to that and I can't find the original focuser knob from Celestron anywhere as a spare part. I want to ask the community if anybody has one of these flying around their workshop maybe after upgrading to a feathertouch. My OTA was purchased with the feathertouch many years ago so I never had the original. I am a bit lost at what else to do, other than to try and source a original focuser...

Well after some experimenting I have decided to go back to LCG at gain 100. Looks so much better to anyone else seeing this post.

I've never had any bigger problems with tilt on this camera. The only tilt-like effects are related to a bent and it's always visible on the edge aimed down during the session. Here is a masterLight as example with an Askar FMA230: The stars aren't perfect, but take please into account that my Askar FMA230 has its back focus equal to 52.5mm instead of 55mm, so I stopped selecting spacers at an acceptable point which is fixable by a BlurXterminator. Here is the same camera attached to an Altair 102 EDT Triplet APO with a dedicated x0.8 reducer, distortion is neglectable (at least for me).

Also be sure without the air connected to set your zero position on the hand controller, slew so your scope is pointing roughly on top and in line with mount at the pole star, then set zero position. Then when you connect your air, one of the first things I do is "goto home", it shouldn't move as it's already in the zero position, if the alignment is correct it should also return the scope back to the zero position you set on the hand controller if you've slewed it to anywhere else prior. At times I've had the air "reset" the home position causing all sorts of goto errors including causing the scope to kamikaze and point toward the ground. Note usually with the air connected to the hand controller, you don't need to touch the hand controller thereafter, all the control is done in the air app.

I assume you are talking about this thread ? If so, as michael has referred, just know the limitations and don't expect the incredible images you see taken with large SCT's and Dobs. A picture says a 1000 words, so to give you an idea, the following links are to images with my Starfield 102ED refractor + 2x barlow + ASI-585MC. Jupiter and Saturn , Jupiter with Ganymede shadow animation . Remember that that's nearly double the focal length of your 72ED and, crucially, using a high-speed planetary camera. The effective focal length was around 1500mm if I recall correctly, and the ROI reduced to increase frame rate. I've not tried it with a DSLR. Here is my rig I used to image the Moon with the 72ED from indoors, and I note I stated I didn't have enough focuser travel to achieve focus with a barlow. And here is my 102 ED. The barlow is a 1.25" nose piece fit, and both scopes come with a 1.25" clamp fit. Planetary imaging is completely different to DSO imaging; this superb FAQ over on CN helped me a lot in getting started. Pay particular attention to section 6 to establish the best barlow length to suit your scope, camera and seeing conditions. Presently, most of the planets aren't visible. Take a look in the Planetary imaging section too; you won't find many posts being made now, but it is a hive of activity during the season. Hope that helps.

Ah no, forgot. I was racing cloud.

Yes, I have a lot of thin plastic spacers starting at 0.2mm and also three paper ones, around 0.1mm each, I described experiments with them earlier in this thread. I reached a compromise between the coma and radially elongated stars at 1.2mm spacer in total, but I used filter then, I think it was the L-eXtreme. I have to check it again without filters, but not tonight, the setup is at home now due to clouds. I'm happy to see that the Sigma lens is OK, I considered returning it under warranty... There is a very interesting method of setting the iris permanently: Based on a following CN thread I attached the 6D body, set a BULB mode, pressed the shutter release button and... detached the body - the iris remains in the F/1.8 position. That's a great trick! https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/837147-sigma-art-40mm-14-canon-mount-no-aperture-ring/