Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

stargazine_ep3_banner.thumb.jpg.5533fb830ae914798f4dbbdd2c8a5853.jpg

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. I've found the Aero ED 40mm 68 degree pretty good in my scopes that range from F/9.2 to F/6.5. I use Ethos 21 and Nagler 31 in my F/5.3 12 inch dob. The Aero ED and clones are pretty light as well, for 2 inch wide fields. In your scope a 40mm 68 shows you a true field of 1.36 degrees and the 34mm 68 1.16 degrees. The Veil, in it's entirety needs around 3.5 degrees but you might squeeze the E or W segment into the 40mm / 68 true field, just !
  3. I was browsing this post and it reminded me that I have difficulty tightening the retaining screw that holds my binoviewers in place. The problem is that the screw is too short and is difficult to tighten. Some time ago I bought a pack of knurled head screws for adjusting the secondary mirror on my Dob and had a couple left over so I tried one and it works perfectly. The second one was used to help retain the diagonal in my refractor as the tube ring is hard to tighten, this also works perfectly. Hope this is of interest to anyone who might be having similar problems. BTW the screws are M4 x 25mm.
  4. Thank you. This question may sound a bit dumb, as I may be way off the mark in my understanding regarding FoV. In the 68 34 vs 40. Is there much in the 40 that I couldnt see in the 34, I know the veil nebula is a monster ect so not even a 40 might get it all in. but as the ES stuff is generally wider viewing than some other Ep's of similar mag would a 34 be enough to cover most deep space stuff. Is the 40 in most scenarious simply able to see the star/space ect around the objectand the 34 is wide enough to see the whole of most objects, any experience with them anyone?
  5. Five is plenty I think Alan, although I keep being tempted to add a 102mm f11 as a final one to compare. I’m having a little 4” moment currently, although I do think I’ll keep them all apart from the TAL.
  6. Looks wonderful John, proper telescope! Long focal length fracs have always spoken to me (not literally of course, I stopped the drugs in the 90's) Really very good to hear it's mainly metal construction, it would have been a travesty in my eyes if not. I'm seriously looking at my little motor driven SW Starquest mount, wondering if it could take the F12.5 version? Although of course I really want the f15!
  7. Looks fine to me with mire de collimation but i am far from an expert
  8. Correct, darks and bias won't know that there is a filter there. You may get away without new flats, but I'd shoot new ones as they're quick to capture.
  9. I've had an LX10 for 23 years now and it has given me many hours of great observing. But attempts at imaging have not been successful . The RA drive has quite a large periodic error and so trailing star images on long exposures. Accurate and precise polar alignment also difficult as I suspect the fork mounting is not perfectly ortogonal in both axis. Visually though it's a great scope and I'm sure will seve you well, especially as it has been gifted!
  10. My DeLites are being sold to raise mount funds, these were the I am done set, but isn't it always. The 7mm is boxed, instructions, sticker, caps all as new. Bag yourself a bargain bit of excellent and immaculate kit. £170 plus postage of your choice. Payment by bank transfer please.
  11. I have just ordered a 2 inch broadband light suppression filter. I am sure my nebula shots have been effected by light polution, especially low targets and due to the 4 street lights very close to my garden despite being in a Bortle 5 area. Quick question that is probably more apt for another forum area but I know the extensive knowledge of those in this thread! Am I right in assuming (you know what they say about assumptions!) that I will not need new darks and bias frames with the filter in the imaging train since they are both 'dark' frames but I will need new flat frames? EDIT: Sorry, and I ordered a 2 inch rather than DSLR clip in as it would have use if I got a one shot CCD later. Does it matter which side of the field flattener the filter is?
  12. Which features are you talking about? Originally I wanted the Atik mainly because of the UK customer service and the reputation they have for quality but I was swayed by the cheaper ZWO which comes with all the adapters you need. Rarely hear about issues with the ASI1600 anyway. I assume your aware of the microlensing issue of this sensor which will affect both Atik and ZWO versions.
  13. There's the TV Panoptic 41mm, TV Nagler T5 31mm, and TV Ethos 21mm for widest viewing at various magnifications, money no object. There's the ES-68 40mm, ES-82 30mm, and ES-100 20mm for somewhat less money and somewhat less well corrected views. There's the Maxvision 40mm and Meade 5000 40mm SWAs if you can find them used. There's also the Meade 5000 UWA 30mm and Celestron Axiom LX 31mm at 82 degrees if you can find them used. The APM XWA HDC 100 degree 20mm is also well reviewed. At f/10, many of the sub-$100 70 to 80 degree 30mm to 40mm SWA eyepieces out there would probably work just fine. For cheap, pick up a 50mm to 56mm Plossl for widest field viewing, but not widest apparent field of view (AFOV).
  14. I thought I would update my work on the Fullerscope Mount. While trying to attach a plate to the bottom of the RA worm housing the metal on the original just gave way, it was very soft and just crumbled away so I decided to remake the worm housing with a bronze bush. I then designed a plate to house the stepper motor and attached it to the bottom of the new worm housing. The stepper motos are nema23, 0.9° step, 1.26Nm, 2.8 amp. I then added GT2 pulleys and installed the wiring inside a nema 23 back panel via a cable gland. My next job is to do the whole lot again on the Dec axis, not sure if I should make a new worm housing to match. I'll see when I start drilling and taping the old one. The metal these one fullerscopes are made out of is not very strong and threads easily strip. New worm housing made Attached to new base plate Stepper motor attached With back panel fitted Fitted to the Fullerscope IV Mount. The flex will be connected to a EQStar Control Box. Counting the teeth, I need a 105 toothed belt to complete Video
  15. 4 days till it's deployed? Any chance of fixing up you van to look like the Space Shuttle?
  16. terra rium. Tellus Mater wishes it be known that Occam is not a child of hers and suggests a planetarium somewhere far far away.
  17. Very good point there Louis- I think the Baader one has a lever sticking out to solve that problem
  18. I just downloaded, fantastic. I knew it would be on an app just so many different ones available, saves me having to trawl through. Thanks.
  19. Hi Dave The LX10 lacks the features to do DSO imaging. I had a LX6 which had a very accurate RA drive system plus PEC plus guiding, but the crude Dec drive, same as yours, made imaging difficult. With Good Polar Alignment a star should remain in the eyepiece in terms of vertical movement, but a basic RA drive with no Periodic Error Correction means the star will drift in RA as I described. You could modify the HBx to allow guiding, but the crude Dec drive would be the limiting factor, as with my LX6. A good Visual and Planetary imaging scope. Michael
  20. My DeLites are being sold to raise mount funds, these were the I am done set, but isn't it always. The 13mm is boxed, instructions, sticker, caps all as new when came from FLO at end of October 2019. Bag yourself a bargain bit of immaculate kit. £170 plus postage of your choice. Payment by bank transfer please.
  21. How would you get your fingers in there to tighten it with fat 1.25" eyepieces that overhang quite a bit? I had to swap out the short thumbscrew for a longer one on one of my adapters because it was so short and had such a wide knurled head that it kept some of my eyepieces from seating level.
  22. Thanks Ray, I can do that, however, there are lots of stars in the NAN region, so can I use those raw sub images? Also do you have any documented source (idiots guide for me that is) on how to interpret the data and then use that to 'fix' the source of any problems identified?
  23. Very nice Carole! If you aren't sure how to get Starnet++ working, have a look at post #13 here:
  24. Francis - Are those Halo's around the bright starts internal reflections due to the filter ?
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.