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  2. Fantastic piece of work, really fascinating.
  3. I hope it has a positive effect, but sounds like it's a bit of a lottery as to whether things get better or worse! There are LED streetlights scattered around my neighbourhood, the beams seem to be well directed downwards in the main, but some of them are just way too bright, unnecessarily so imo. Interesting point that the Armagh Planetarium Director makes in your link about needing warmer coloured LEDs, can't imagine this would make much difference to light pollution though as it is still 'broadband' light?
  4. Hi Roland, Many thanks for your reply. I have been doing quite a bit of astrophotography, mainly dslr with kit zoom lens mounted on a skywatcher star adventurer mount. Also a dslr mounted on a 127 Mak for planetary stuff. This means I am happy with polar alignment and also with dslr camera settings for captures. I feel like I am ready for the next step. I had decided to look at the ZWO ASI1600MM so the fact that you mention this camera gives me some confidence with my decision making ! I will have to read about collimation of the secondary mirror. Hopefully it is not too painful ! Here is a small selection of some of my little victories but I cant wait for the next step ! best wishes, Andy
  5. As you say, how about some tin foil (heavy duty) wrapped around the outside ....
  6. Thanks Vlaiv. I actually have a Mak 180 kicking around not doing much at the moment, I may try to get it into use for imaging, though will have to look for a suitable OAG.
  7. I had a similar response to you when the LED streetlights were introduced here a few years ago. Since then, I have watched deep-sky objects slowly fade and disappear. From my skies being generally poor, they are now totally unusable. I can no longer observe the galaxies and so on that I want to. The sky, instead of being a muddy orange colour, is now bright white. The LED lights have totally ruined my already horrible skies. Sorry (really sorry) to be the bearer of bad news.
  8. Btw, a fellow amateur astronomer from my country has Mak180 and has done quite a bit of imaging with it. Here is some of his work: You can see other images at: https://www.flickr.com/photos/132897674@N03/page1 although he now mainly uses MN190 for imaging
  9. Yes, I was thinking of affordability, the Atik 383l is a lot cheaper than the Atik 16200, which is the cheapest 16200 based cameras.
  10. Selling my trusty Fullerscope 8.75" F7.5 newt on a Mk3 mount (to fund the purchase of a goto mount that I've bought). This is an excellent visual scope, especially for planets, lunar and doubles but also serves up wonderful contrasty deep sky views. Has a Grade B mirror which was re-coated with OO Hilux coatings in the last couple of years by a previous owner. The scope has an original fullerscope finder (not the celestron RACI shown) , is fitted with a GSO type 2" crayford focuser (I will be keeping the motor focuser though) and has a home brew cooling fan fitted to the rear. I'd be looking for £400 ONO for both scope and mount. Collection from Bristol only. Please enquire for more pics etc... Attached lunar photos were taken using a galaxy s8 through the EP. The actual views were even sharper!
  11. All those smaller sensors will work, and you can bin them. Only drawback will be: 1. Smaller FOV 2. Smaller final image size if you maintain sampling rate above 1"/px (and one should as not to over sample). ASI1600 for example, can be binned 4x4 for 1.16"/px with 1164px x 880px and FOV of 22.2' x 16.8'
  12. This news article has really made my day. I mostly observe from my back yard in Belfast. Hopefully this is going to make a real difference. Anyone else have any experience of what to expect. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-northern-ireland-48038706
  13. How about an Atik 383L? Binned 2x2 it gives 0.82"pp http://astronomy.tools/calculators/field_of_view/?fov[]=50||21||1|2|90&messier=65 But you'll need an OAG, and I'm not sure how stable the mirror is.
  14. HI Andy, And welcome to the darkside! 1) Maybe yes, maybe No - it all will depend on the camera Focusing distance. If you will get cam in focus with Focuser's Drawtube rolled out a lot, - you will not need to "Circumcise" anything as the drawtube will not cast much shadow on the Primary mirror. 2) 150PDS - the same issue 4) Have you done any imaging before? if not, I would suggest trying any DSLR camera you've got for the start, or the second hand one... As you will spend lots of nights learning things which are not Related to Imaging Directly (guiding, platesolving processing and etc etc). However if you want to skip this part with cheap DSLR and dive directly into MONO, look at something like ZWO ASI1600MM or Similar. Note: for mono camera you will need FilterWheel and Filters, all brand new around £1800 in total. P.S. With ASI1600MM you will need to chop off a bit of the drawtube for the Perfect Results, but if you will use Coma Corrector which does not work as Reducer (for example Skywatcher CC is 0.9 reducer) you will be able to live without circumcision as distortion will be quite little, - probably... "Circumcision" of the drawtube is not the Most challenging task with PDS, in fact, it takes around 10 - 15mins and I doubt someone managed to damage the scope during this procedure. If you will need to, do not chop a lot, go with 1cm first. The most challenging thing with PDS is collimation of the Secondary Mirror (not Primary, but the smaller one). So if you will get a New One, at the start, adjust just a Primary Mirror if needed, - do not touch bolts of the secondary at all.
  15. Hi All, Actually, ignore the RC question as I have now read and understood enough about focal length to see that this would be a bad idea ! I have also been looking at the GSO 150mm f4 scope. Does anyone have any experience or top tips on the GSO vs the SW 130 PDS ? Clears skies all. cheers, Andy
  16. Today
  17. Yeah i've been following the MKII thread and have also heard that the pricing is going to be the same which means Mesu MK1 mounts might be on sale very soon
  18. P.S. and MESU are not out of stock... There are none of them at all. Mesu 200 Ver2 is at the final stage of development at the moment and no old versions are produced So... No one yet knows the date of the new release
  19. yep... it tells, you should be happy with this one!
  20. As luck would have it, there's a delay in CEM60 family mount production As an impulse buy, i could've gone for a Mesu 200 but then that's out of stock as well Is the universe trying to tell me something?
  21. Yes I agree the blue stars are a super contrast to the galaxy. I m surprised about how Brown it looks. No Yellow at all? Tom
  22. Advanced Members 184 170 posts Location: Hawkes bay, New Zealand Report post Posted 20 hours ago Hi all, Having read a fair bit of this thread and also being impressed by the quality of the images, I am very tempted to buy a 130 PDS and give it a crack ! A couple of questions though and I apologise in advance if these have already been asked ad nauseam. I have enough money to invest in a HEQ5 pro. I also have enough to put my first steps into mono ccd imaging. I don't have enough left over for the recommended 80mm esprit, so I thought I might have a go with this impressive scope. 1) I will need to saw off the focussing tube from the get go ? I find this a little bit scary. 2) do you need to do the sawing if you buy a 150 PDS? 3) this scope vs a 6 inch RC? any major differences? the thing putting me off the 6 inch RC is the reduced FOV. Is this necessarily an unsurmountable issue? 4) can you please recommend a ccd mono camera that will not under/over sample with this particular set up? So many questions !! Thankyou one and all and clear skies ! Andy
  23. I say well done, well worth the effort. Tom
  24. no laptop is at mates being completely reinstalled for a clean instal as it’s only a notebook not much space .god knows what had been left on it over the years with so many install and uninstalls .get it back today then have to put all the Astro software on it ,so looking at next week for first views weather permitting 🥺
  25. What cameras do you have that you can use on this scope? There is no such thing as slow scope for imaging That scope has massive focal length, and that presents some challenges. As far as I know, Maksutovs have fairly flat field so you should be able to use fully illuminated section of the field without any sort of correction needed. Quick search gives fully illuminated field of about 30mm (but don't quote me on that one - I'm not 100% certain of it). With focal length of 2700mm, this is equivalent of 15mm/1350mm, or 7.5mm/675mm. By no means wide field setup, but should be capable of capturing galaxies, planetaries and globular clusters. To be a good match for this scope, camera should have more than 14um pixel size. Of course, you don't actually have to have such camera, any camera will do if you bin it to required pixel size / resolution. Let's say you pair it with ASI071 You can get 1236px x 821px image covering ~30' x ~20' of the sky with resolution being 1.46"/px at 180mm aperture. I would not call that slow, although I would call it "constricted". But not much more than for example my 8" RC paired with ASI1600 which gives me 37.2' x 28.2'. Trouble of course is to find suitable mono camera for this scope that is affordable. Only options at the moment are expensive CCD sensors close to full frame. KAF-16200 would be good choice (not that I'm suggesting to get one just to use it with said scope )
  26. I’m not sure about imaging DSO’s But, I have taken some great planetary shots with it, shame it’s sitting on a shelf really.
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