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  2. When mine melted it killed the USB3 socket it was plugged into. Thankfully I still have plenty of USB sockets to choose from as I use a docking station with my thinkpad. Are you still using the same cable? If you still notice it being hot on removal, i would seriously consider getting one of the newer ones from FLO, just to be on the safe side. I've never noticed my new one feeling hot to touch.
  3. 70/900 refractors seem to weigh around 1.6kg, whereas a 150P weighs around 5 kg - too much for an EQ2. 2nd user equipment is often good value and can be a good way to upgrade.
  4. Dave, what's that behind you in your avatar? The insurer's argument is strange. I suppose they won't pay either if you use your telescope outdoors where all can see it? Come to think of it, membership of a place like this is already advertising that you have gear. enjoy my list
  5. Hi, Right but encoders are encoders and it does not matter where they were built in. It is a question of carrying capacity what you are mentioning now. Encoders do not care about weight on the mount and they do not need to care about it. Encoders do correct the periodic error. Look iOptron has now 4 mounts with encoders and they are CEM 25EC CEM 40EC CEM 60EC CEM 120EC The encoders are there for correcting PE and they do it. No I do not have experience with an CEM60EC but a friend in Mexico has a CEM 60 and a CEM 60EC and he is happy with both. Of course he bought first the CEM 60 adn then the CEM 60EC. Why ? I have not asked him. If you stay in the carrying limits of each mount the encoders will work and if you put more then the limits the encoders will also still work trying to compensate anything which is moving the axis but then the mechanical flexibility will play a mayor role in the efficiency of the encoders and how well the motors can react to the correction signal product of the encoder correction. Again encoders do not care about carrying weight they only they care of the PE in the same way as the encoders in a car do not care the type of car anfdif it is a Limousine or a SUV when pout in for maintaining a constant speed on the M5 ... Again the big problem here is that people still think that encoders do magic and guiding get obsolete and I guess this Urban Mytrh will stay until the " The Day of Judgement " OK, do you want a suggestion ? If you have the GBP £ 900.00 and it does not hurt you spending them, get it with EC ... If you are not convinced then do not get it ... Rainer Rainer
  6. This was the original design of iEQ45 with spring-loaded anti-backlash gears. I didn't find these very convincing after moderately protracted use because they slackened off badly and became springy. I think iOptron dropped the system entirely from the 45 range but am not sure. I do think, as Dave said earlier, that iOptron do too much beta testing on the customer but I've read good reports of the CEM60 in its present state. Truth is, a good EQ6 is quite a good mount and may be better than an unknown EQ6 variant! I'd look carefully at the CEM60 if I were in the market for a mount at this price. Olly
  7. Ok I AM impressed:) Thanks again for the replies guys. I did a 2-star alignment. First i checked if the mount was leveled, and did a polar alignment as best i could. after the alignment it said i was 1 and some degrees off East, and 4 and some degree off North , which i dont understand why. I find it difficult to know if its Polaris i'm looking at or something else. Also my app puts it at about 2 o'clock in the "Polar-Wheel", but i dont how it is in the polar finder since the image is "mirrored" and all that. I copied what i saw on my app. I used Mizar and Vega for the 2-star alignment. When i chose Vega at first, the Scope went veeery far off. Like 130 degrees off, pointing down to the ground. This got me thinking of probably a very stupid question, but is there a right way and a wrong way to attach the scope, directionaly? i mean you have 2 options 180 degrees. After centering Vega, it moved to what i at least think was very close to Mizar, just had to calibrate it a little bit closer. But then when you say im 3 frames too low and to far to the right, then there must be something I'm doing wrong? Another thing that made me worry. If i released the RA and DEC locking knob, and turned on the scope, at some point the scope would crash in the tripod legs. It didn't happen but if i continued turning it would. The Synscan doesnt "know" this and stops and goes the other way around if its obstructed? Is this a common thing, or am i doing something wrong here too?
  8. Altocumulus


    Chuckles! I got the bb error one time too often!
  9. Probably wondoze was doing an update at the critical moment.
  10. Thanks for the alert, just edited my sig to remove list of kit.
  11. Looking for a Takahashi 0.66x Reducer FC-35 for FC-100D please contact me via PM!
  12. This happens normally because you have closed the application (Stellarium or APT) ,which was connected to the ASCOM driver, before disconnecting from the Ascom Moun driver - in your case EQMOD. Thats a no no - Ascom drivers become "disconnected" and "confused" Plus no need for POTH ! EQMOD and other Ascom drivers are normally written to share the device . The work flow is 1. Start Stellarium + Scope (OR APT ) and connect to the ASCOM driver - NOTE its the Ascom driver that connects to the hardware (i.e. COM port) 2. When you connect to an Ascom driver via the Ascom Chooser Menu(which will appear) you choose the driver (i.e. EQMOD) and then click properties on the Ascom chooser window (this is only needed once per session) and the EQMOD connection windows will appear - this is where you select the COM port which has the USB Adapter/Mount cable connected to it (Device Manager will show which it is if you use FDTI/CH340G/Prolific chip in your USb Adapter - note yellow ! means no driver or a problem - sort this out first).. NOTE if your Ascom EQMOD starts flashing on / off (3 times I think) at this stage it cannot connect to your mount - check mount switch on and cables in place AND you have chosen the correct COM port. 3. If you connected APT in (2) now connect Stellarium or visa versa - no need now to click Properties on Ascom Chooser Menu as its already set up in (1). Do not choose anything different in the Ascom chooser - i.e. Ascom EQMOD in (2) then it has to be Ascom EQMOD in (3) - then click OK no clicking properties button no need. 4. Use your scope on a wonderful clear night -no moon taking lots of pretties - ok dream on. 5. To close down its the reverse - so if you opened with Stellarium ( both Stellarium and Stellarium Scope) then APT you should first close APT down then Stellarium(s). If you use anything else e.g. PHD2 connect to the same Ascom driver - EQMOD in your case - and follow the same principles. May I also suggest that you install another Planetarium such as CDC as a back up - just to make sure an update to the software (Stellarium) hasn't caused a problem now or in the future. Even if you never use it again unless you have a problem. Stellarium/Scope is so "user unfriendly" and awkward IMHO why don't they merge the 2 parts - even if the application itself is more informative . May I also suggestion that ,if you have't already done so, doing your work flow during daylight as many times as possible so it becomes 2nd nature - nothing wrong with have the work flow written down - I did for a while . P.S. Never assume anything with the COM port numbers - they may not be the same as last time you used your kit. Connect your cables for the mount first and get it working first then add and connect your other software that uses COM ports (e.g. Filter Wheel etc). If you have a perm set up they odd on the COM port number will stay the same. Once its working every time then change the slew speed as suggested by previous posts.


    Hello and welcome , I have a feeling we know each other from somewhere else.
  14. Cheers Anne for your input. Much appreciated
  15. That's worrying! Exactly the same happened to my Hitec Astro one on a club night - I burned my thumb pulling it out of the socket! The lead inside had been poorly soldered and their were some loose strands where the cables were soldered to the board. %V at 1 amp may only be 5 watts, but when concentrated into a tiny bit of circuit board...
  16. I haven't had a chance to use it properly yet. That probably won't happen now till August, I'll be doing solar on it this summer. My maximum fl will be 1370mm though mostly it will have a dual scope setup on it once I get going with it. I normally use a finderguider though I should probably use an OAG for the ritchey chretien. I have polar aligned it ready.
  17. True that Alan but then you also see people get on these forums to have a moan and keep it to themselves when everything is working fine for them.
  18. The mount has now been sold. I can't see how to mark it as sold. Mods. Please can you move it to the sold thread. Thanks. Anne
  19. laudropb


    Hello and a warm welcome to the SGL.
  20. I tell you something I recall from a chat with Olly, the early model had a tendency to bounce something like my M/N 190mm, a scope where there is a heavy lump at each end. Olly put me off buying the one on the market then (6year ago) because this spring loaded drives cause bounce effect and big problems with this type of scope, maybe it would be fine with a refractor. I am sure they will have sorted that out now, but I understand you doing research as you say, they are not free with Cornflakes. Alan
  21. Oh ok, i stand corrected Any issues with guiding so far? you using guidescope or OAG? What's the maximum FL you're using?
  22. Oh dear bet that messed up the guiding. Mine is a new type bought from FLO last summer I think. It will be something I am doing wrong or not doing. Alan
  23. RiponJas


    Hello there and welcome
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