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  2. If you are not happy with new kit the sooner you contact the supplier the better. Leaving it until later weakens your case. Possibly there might be a simple DIY fix, or that gap could be sealed with silicon to keep out moisture and dirt, but once you’ve done that it could easily void your guarantee as you’ve mentioned. Hope you sort it to your satisfaction. Ed.
  3. 800x, 1100x Here my TMB/LZOS 130 F/9 triplet goes up to around 350x-400x but any more than that is not bringing any benefits. I'll have to ship it over to Tampa to give it more of a chance ! My ED120 is good up to around 300x on double stars and the Moon here.
  4. Wow, absolutely brilliant. I was watching that big row of proms through the PST this afternoon.
  5. Hard to win in tough conditions. I was out too, but only really to drift align the mount and check OAG guiding performance. No EEVA, but I did gather some frames on NGC 2403... not looked at them yet!
  6. If it's for visual use I'd go for a doublet. A triplet takes longer to cool down than a doublet does (much longer than the Tak FC-100's) and is heavier to mount. The Tak FC-100's show no false colour at all that I can see (I have the F/9 but I believe the F/7.4 is the same in this respect).
  7. Hi, Below some color moon images. The first is a 6-panel mosaic, made using FLT132 and ASI 224MC. Taken @ f/7 this is a rather low resolution image. Image was combines using Adobe Photoshop Photomerge The other images are parts of the large mosaic I posted earlier. I used the colors of the color full disc image. So these are IR-RGB. Rima Hyginus region: Including also triesnecker and Rimae Triesnecker. Mare fecunditatis: Zith the obligue crater duo Messier. Mare Nectaris: Wit the Crater trio Theophillus, Cyrillus and Catharina. Posidonius, and the rim of Mare Serenitatis. I guess I'm finally getting the hang of colorizing my high res images, with low res color data. Next would tbe to get higher res color data. But that would require an ADC as even in these images some dispersion is creeping in. Enjoy the images. Feel free to share your thoughts. Clear skies, Wouter.
  8. Never actual used it yet just put it on as routine
  9. Good point. Even in a perfect night as today it simply isn't dark enough. Only doubt: A triplet would also work for daytime observing - a doublet won't. Any view why not to buy a triplet over a doublet? Would the Tak be better than a triplet? I never considered taking off the focuser. Without the focuser and the dust cap (which then would slide over the tube) the Startraveller would be less than 30cm. Appears precarious, but may be worth a try. Another question, if I may ask: From your signature, you also have an Equinox 80 - how does that fit into your line-up/ what do you use that for?
  10. Got distracted last time and I’ve managed to get out of work early so now just waiting for Mrs to got to bed then a quick setup and I should be
  11. Excellent, nice entry and the contrast is very good...really have to do a mosaic myself one day.
  12. I only read to this comment and just had to cut through. DROP ST4! It's a flawed technology, getting you into all sorts of compatibility issues between cameras and mounts and the cables are horrible. Drop it. Now. I've been there, spent two nights messing with ST-4. Once I went USB it worked immediately. You're banging your your head against something totally unnecessary. If you are hellbent on making it work, good luck. If you want to guide, go USB.
  13. 10 to 20 degrees off sounds like a 1 hour error - not BST in one of the setups? Michael
  14. Beautiful images. I spent a few hours on and off observing and imaging the sun - the latter a waste of time.
  15. Some pre BBQ capture today revealed some nice proms on the opposite limb to the disappearing AR2738. Is something approaching? ZWO ASI 290MM (Native), Lunt Ha PT, Firecapture, AS!2 and ImPPG.
  16. I get the impression that even the best mounts require PA to about 5arcmins to be able to be effectively guided ? That said a direct drive mount should relieve you of the chore of correcting PE. I'm not sure about demounting then trying to sell the forks. Think about selling the LX90 complete and then look for a mount and ota ? Or given your fork mount experience , buy a LX200GPS witn permanent PEC ? Not sure the forks aren't longer, get closer to the polar regions ? Michael
  17. ...well at least not during a full moon. Terrible conditions - with mist/haze, could barely see only but the brightest stars. This was really a test to see how to get my Atik to focus on the 250px, and to see if guiding with a guidescope works. In short I needed an extension, so with FW etc this should be all good. I've my MPCC spacing sorted so will be good to go with better stars next time. Guiding seems poor (2"/px) and with imaging at 0.93"/px I'm going to have to look at this. I might try a longer guidescope, or an OAG. Six minutes gets you this. It's small. 60s x 6 at -25oC, no calibration.
  18. I am betting thats a 2.5k camera.
  19. Had the scope to 800x on the moon and it still looked pretty good, but dim. I have some of the best seeing in my country and i have used over 1100x in my bigger Newts.
  20. I have a Moonlite on the 120ed. I put the stock SW focuser on the CR6 6" Celestron and it binds some,, but fine focus is fine. I don't use 2" eyepieces. The stock focser on the SW150 ED seems fine.
  21. I agree with this too, I think what it shows is that you need to understand your own camera/scope and dont just assume that if you have perfect focus on the Moon that the Stars will be 100% too and vice versa. Alan
  22. Doing that wouldn't void the warranty would it? Also I'm concerned about something falling out if i remove the panel
  23. Could it be the other way round? E.g. when focus is obtained using a star it means focusing on a specific point on the imaging plane, which isn't too difficult using a mask or software. However, when attempting to focus the Moon, it is a larger object that is spread across the imaging plane. With a real and imperfect scope there is probably (depends on equipment) no single point of perfect focus for an object that spans the imaging plane to some degree (perhaps due to optics or imaging plane alignment) requiring a visual judgement of perfect focus that is perfect across the plane.
  24. I suspect that if you remove or loosen the screws holding on the cover and jiggle it then it may reseat properly and you can then put back / tighten the screws.
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