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I mean, you probably could. Once 🤣

I agree, SX kit is superb, but always on the very expensive side, I have been waiting for them to bring out an IMX571 based camera, but now they are, I dare not ask the price…😮😮

Once mastered the eyepieces are very enjoyable to use, the feel wider than they are tagged.

The SX combined Autofocuser and Active Optics does look very interesting but probably very expensive. it would be interesting to know the bore.

Kostas have you checked all the relevant grub screws and Allen screws which position and hold the various plates of the clutch assembly? The video posted earlier in the thread shows these various screws and where they are located. I ask this due to your description that the brass worm gear is turning and it is tensioned against the teeth on the drive plate yet it's not moving the axis. To me it appears that the clutch is slipping and this could be due to the screws mentioned. Tightening the main tensioning nut on top of the assembly will have no effect due to this. I would watch the video and check the screws on yours at each disassembly stage. Good luck 🤞.

Thanks! I love prime imaging with planetary conjunctions

Yes I know ... sorry Central Europe.. it is cloudy, raining and even snowing 😄. At least I had ample time to put together and now to collimate.

My score is 99%

Excellent, vibrant, informative, good-humoured forum! But, just on the nerd thing, there needs to be a special subcategory for people who talk about the Svbony 8-3 zoom all the time

... true but you cant eat the EP 🤣

That small SW HD mount can slew fast enough to satellite track so will definitely be interesting. Being able to use it in EQ or a dual mount alt az mode will definitely be of use.

Actually I do, I swap from hovering over the lens to pressing against the eye cup. I just need to practice

I now I should always keep my periodic table next to me😁 shameful score, I need to buy another anorak…

Good advice above, but I would add that it is very dependent on your set up. I image with a 1600MM pro and a RisingCam IMX571 colour camera and I have no problem with a standard LED panel (tracing panel from Amazon) and very short exposures << 1sec. (Not recommended with a 294 sensor). This is particularly convenient when taking NB and LRGB flats at the same time as I do not need to alter the screen brightness. Similarly, with the RC8 I remove the dew shield for the flats and it is fine. Obviously, this may not be the case with an SCT due the effect of the corrector plate.

Nice brass Gregorian on Sunday's broadcast about 29 minutes in ... https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/m001bf3j/antiques-roadshow-series-44-ham-house-3

This eyepiece is popular. It's the best thing since sliced bread But let's be honest, you can't see much with sliced bread...

I want to know who the 1% is so I can eliminate them

Also a sympton of "bad weather Syndrome" as talking about equipment fills the void of actually being able to use it . IMO its a good EP for the money ... just about sums it up

I note your issue with the Morpheus 9, could I safely presume that you do not wear glasses? I use and adore the 12.5 Morpheus, nut wear glasses, the eye cup is used fully down and no spacer for glasses use. But if no glasses it needs the spacer and the eyecup to stop the eye being beyond the focus spot produced. (I probably have the terminology wrong above, others may correct me on this) but this is the difference between being a pain to use and being a dream in use.

1. Is it a Canon DSLR, you didn't say ? Shoot Canon video this way: https://www.astropix.com/html/equipment/canon_one_to_one_pixel_resolution.html 2. It doesn't matter much that planets appear as "dots" in DSLR images. If you crop the eg 5000 x 3000 pixel images to a typical planetary camera image size of 1280 x 1024. Hey, the planet looks the same size as if you'd shot with a planetary camera ! Also it's much easier to place that tiny dot on a DSLR sensor than in a tiny sensor Planetary camera . 3. 420mm focal length is pretty short for Planetary, even with Barlowing. Many are using a 2000mm FL SCT and Barlowing ! Michael

Clear images but just a bit too bright IMHO. I'm not quite clear why you are transferring images from the micro sd card to the 64gb usb. Why don't you just send the images directly to the usb dongle in the first place? Apologies if I've got the wrong end of the stick.

Thank you Wes

Thank you Dave, your WL on astrobin are great!

At that price I'd be tempted to go for the triplet 130. Fpl53 too https://www.teleskop-express.de/en/telescopes-4/apochromatic-refractor-55/all-apos-und-eds-223/ts-optics-photoline-130-mm-f-7-edt-triplet-apo-refractor-6679

For exposure with a 533MC Pro, aim for 3000 ADU average at 100 gain which you can find in the histogram data. This will ensure you are not clipping, and not overexposing.