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  2. I thought I’d share this from last time I stripped it lol Every time I always swear it will be the last time
  3. Now I wonder if that happened to me, on Monday! I had to skew towards CdC's Neptune to find the Sun - rather than just to the SW of the big orange thing in the sky.
  4. I've tried to lighten it a bit Dave @Davey-T, using your suggested technique
  5. Thats exactly why I asked tgem if they will sell the neq6 or eq6r, they have a higher capacity
  6. I dont really have money for a long focal lenght and fast refractor..thats why I am looking at newton, but I found a 6" RC now for like 400$.
  7. I am considering just shipping mine off to darkframe optics when the time for it comes..
  8. You should be able to do it, though of course depends on the individual components you have. I managed it with a similar setup and although there isn't much space to play with, it can be done. You will need a fairly low profile OAG, the one I have is only 16mm thick and the coma corrector will need to be inserted into the focus tube. Steve
  9. Hello from Dorset, I have been following SGL for a little while now but have finally created an account. I've been interested in astronomy since I was a child, however I can now dedicate more time (more, but not enough) and some money (definitely not enough) to the hobby I am hoping to take it to the next level. I am interested in astrophotography and have started to collate an imaging rig and have completed a few nights of imaging with some beginner success. I am really looking forward to my astro journey and hope to learn a lot from the community here. James
  10. Sorry about the late reply, just been bogged down with a lot of work this morning. I completely agree with everything that @Jkulin, @ollypenrice & @pete_l had to say. I'm just trying to make sure i am going to be making the right decision but i do also know that we all have different experiences with the products we get in the end. Some are good and some are just painstakingly bad but before i embarked on the research journey, i've heard nothing but good stuff about their latest CEM60's and CEM60EC's .... but in my eyes it's always good to know about the potential issues rather than not knowing which might lead you down the rabbit hole. I shall soon be pulling the trigger ... soon
  11. I have also on top of this added SGP and that indeed connects to scope fine Problems I have still. 1) Slew in APT using arrow keys is super slow not usable even if i change slew settings or even comes up with slew error! I don't really need this as I can use the ascom arrow keys on mode 4 which is set to 800 and works fine. However if I use goto in APT to a set location, Object or coordinate it slews perfect 2) Blind plate solve will not work for me in APT (ASPS) but platesolve 2 does but needs rough coordinates to be able to solve. The are three ways I found around this. 2a) Take RA and Dec off of Stellarium from target if synched. 2b) upload a shoot picture in APT and upload it to Astrometry.net and get the results and add them to APT. 3c) MY favourite way. Take a Capture of stars in APT open in SGP and blind solve (which works) and put coords in apt and normal solve. I have spent days trying to get ASPS working in APT. Extensive communication with author of program along with Admins on APT forums. They all gave up! I seem to have a .dll violation error that can't be fixed even by a reinstall. I have tried everything under the sun (forgive the pun) to get it to work. But open to suggestions. The actual error is log file can't be created.. Kindest regards David
  12. Sorry yes you're right, this was Lobster Claw nebula. I have now amended the topic Super useful on the processing technique, have saved it now and will put this in to action on a new target
  13. The first time I did mine I think it took about 2 hours. It was surprisingly straight forward and after not being happy with a few things managed to refit in just under an hour. It's the setting up of the worm gears/backlash that really takes the time. There was a member on here that put his videos of fitting the mod on youtube. I found it hand to watch first but Its also handy if you can have a laptop to hand in case you get a bit stuck.
  14. I cannot get close to the theoretical values we discussed in another thread, so I wonder how meteoblue are calculating the seeing values, in particular for urban/suburban areas where it is almost certainly far worse than projected. For my setup i should be able to get some subs around 2" fwhm but I have never seen a single one < 3.5" long or short... Mauna kea looks good though, seeing projected circa 0.15"!
  15. Now I need to work out how to vent the warm air to the atmosphere whilst stopping rain coming in when the fan isn't running. I'm thinking a cone to direct the air into the dome via the camera and out round the edge of the dome and an outer cone (maybe the cone shaped top of the casing with a smaller cone inside. With just the 30x30mm TEC and air cooling albeit blown by a fan, I think the cooling may not be enough. I could use a double stacked Peltier TEC cooler using the TEC1-12706. This would take more power than water cooling but provides warm air for dew prevention. If I use water cooling I would need to add a heater which seems daft. Plus the air cooled system might not be much less efficient once dew heating is taken into account.
  16. In the case of big bad bloaters this is good in Photoshop: Make one copy layer. Use feathered eraser of the right size to remove in one click the bloater and its halo from the top layer. You won't see anything happen because the copy layer is underneath. Bottom layer active, both layers visible. Open curves. Pin the curve at the level of the background or nebulosity just outside the halo. Put a fixing point or two below that. Pull the curve down just above the original 'background' point. Olly
  17. Yes there is a lot to strip out. This isnt the first time I've had my mount apart, but keep an eye out for a cheap mount for 'parts or repair' in case it doesnt work out
  18. Whoops, one was turned. Log attached. Thanks. PHD2_GuideLog_2019-04-22_215509.txt
  19. Reading the article, it seems that the architect had given some thoughts to the gear: - Dome from Pier-Tech - Mount from Astro-Physics - Telescope with carbon tube from RCOS. It didn't say what brand cigars or sort of wine, though.
  20. I look forward to hear how the installation goes.. It looks pretty complicated on the EQ6 vs the HEQ5.
  21. Some are understandably emailing us expressing frustration at the way CEM60 mounts have been delayed. iOptron assure us the delay is due to a single component shortage. They say they do not yet have a dispatch date. In the absence of an official dispatch date retailers, including ourselves, are guessing when they might receive CEM60 mounts. Some guesses are clearly more optimistic than others but we are all only guessing. iOptron assure us when the CEM60 does become available all retailers will receive their backorders around the same time. If one has stock a day or two before another then it will be due only to logistics. "The factory will prep and release them in the most efficient manner, it will happen quickly". We understand how frustrating it is for those who have already ordered and paid for a mount. Rest assured we are doing our very best to fulfil orders. I.e. we have ordered several CEM60 mounts and have specified delivery by air freight, not sea (air is more expensive but faster). Thank-you for your patience Steve
  22. I think that’d be about 250mm with a crop sensor. In order to expose both the moon and foreground correctly you might need to take separate images and combine them, depending on how bright the moon is. This is a 350mm shot of the full moon rising, but I had to use gradient merge to show both the moon and foreground.
  23. I'm confused - isn't the Bubble in Cassiopeia and the Lobster all the way over in Scorpio ? What's the official designation of the large nebula in that pic ? Re PI noise reduction, as Wim says for TGV, I usually do it on the stretched image and do trial and error on both the edge protection setting and the strength setting - though I think the strength setting I use is much less than 1, more like an exponent of -2 iirc. Multiscale Linear Transform works very well for noise reduction too, and settings are much less than are generally touted on the internet - here's my trick for doing it - non-linear, masked as per Wim's post above, open up MLT, 6 layers, and turn off layers 1-5 inclusive, run on small dark area previews first, open a live preview with a strong stretch - it'll just look like a blurry nothing. Then turn level 1 back on - the noise will jump out at you, kind of looks like etched glass. Turn on the noise reduction for that layer, amount 0.75, iterations 3 and fine tune the threshhold till the noise *just* disappears. Then turn that layer off again, and repeat for levels 2 and 3, maybe 4. Finally turn all layers back on and apply it to the full image. Whether MLT or TGV, I usually dial back the settings till the noise starts showing a little bit, rather than removing it completely. Just need to take the fizz off, not make it look plastic. Can run a stronger denoise on chrominance than on luminance.
  24. Today
  25. Extremely interesting this...thanks for posting that link. Steve
  26. If that works for you do it - no point it doing it any other way ,for now. "if it's not broke dont fix it" Glad its working.
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