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  2. I am really baffled folks and could use your help. I thought flats taken either side of the peer would work fine. They normally do... There is absolutely NO rotation of the camera taken place (TEC140 with Atik 460). Flats taken at same CCD temperature, same focus position. I tried different ADU for the flats and no difference. Retaken lots of different flats and still same result. This three hour data set in luminance is lost if I can't figure this out A sub (east side) of the peer before the flip and my flats calibrate out dust donuts. As it happens, flats ALSO taken East side of peer (facing my wall mounted flats panel). But the subs AFTER the flip (with the same master flat as before the flip) and the flats are leaving strange residual donuts that are not calibrating out. Vignetting removed but weird artefacts of the dust donuts are left. To repeat no rotation of the camera has taken place at all. Leaving me with a messed up result with 16 x 10 Minute subs.
  3. I've never had a reply from Skywatcher - but they dont really "exist" do they? I suppose skywatcher as an entity is mostly just "put shiny black and green on that scope over there", its all just part of the Synta umbrella (ok I'm maybe being a bit glib but you get my point hopefully). OVL Uk are probably the best people to ask as the UK distributers. Or better yet someone like FLO or RVO Never had an issue with Amazon either, they're usually pretty great - as long as its actually Amazon that you are dealing with. Some of the sellers on there can be a bit hit or miss.
  4. I have had my 8" SCT for 22+ years now. Must be doing something right. A key point in its favour is that it is very light and compact, so is easy to set up. I am considering getting a big Dobson as well. That won't replace the C8, merely complement it (and the 80mm triplet refractor, and 16x80 bins, and the solar scope )
  5. I tend to be a sensible sort of person who thinks things through before acting, ie. not impulsive, so my decision to buy my 12 inch Dobsonian was based on the two main criteria mentioned above - cost and practicality. I bought the very biggest scope I could afford and also the biggest I could sensibly handle, and I'm very pleased I did!
  6. JRM

    Hello

    Hello Sainte, welcome to the lounge. Rick
  7. For doing occultations, IOTA ( International Occultation Timing Association) require analogue cameras coupled to a VTI ( Video Time Inserter) and recorder. Nigel
  8. I generally use my 100-400 L zoom for the moon on my crop-sensor cameras, but often crop the results as well. For real detail I end up using my C8, but that is a different ball game altogether.
  9. Er.... 39 metres......but then they're still muttering about 100 metres. Basicly when the money runs out.
  10. Bit unfair and not really true Sky X write the software its up to them to make it work - after all ,except for a few exceptions most Ascom aware software works very well on Win 7,8,10.
  11. Thanks for that. I am not so much after lots of detail but more to understand how to get the sizing correct. I will give you an example. This is a photo that looks similar to what i was seeing from my back garden (moon not as orange). Whan i tried to take a similar shot using my 18-55mm set at 55mm the resulting moon size appeared a lot smaller against the forground than it looked with my naked eye against the forground. Unfortunitly i do not have my photo any more as i deleted it. Appologies to the person who took this for me using as an example here.
  12. Camera with cooler. Green cone is focus gear (teeth not shown), red is camera casing, sealed and provides thermal insulation
  13. Regarding the desktop setting, if you scroll to the bottom left you'll find the Theme tab. Clicking that enables to switch to desktop view.
  14. Andrew is very right here. Also one size scope does not fit all, especially with UK skies & seeing ability to be fair Rob
  15. banjaxed

    Hello

    Hi and welcome to SGL.
  16. that is indeed an option, but you won't really have the detail doing that, if you're trying to get any surface detail... best I can offer, try it, and see what it looks like. As for the illusion that the moon appears larger, that is true, and it's a deception, that if I recall correctly, your brain plays as putting the moon near the horizon allows you to get a sense of scale with the surroundings... I'm not aware of a method of being able to do what you're looking for any other way, I'd suggest trying to ensure you keep the same exposure settings, and do a gentle photoshoppery... If you really wanted a very detailed moon, you could grab a shot with the newt, and use that with the landscape... with some moon resizing.
  17. Quite. Which is why I qualified my remark with "Done properly it is very accurate". The spacing between mirror and lens is critical . Putting the lens on the end of the focussing tube is not going to give the required result. Nigel
  18. There are two main constraints, money and practicality (size and weight). In reality it depends on what you want to do and how you intend to do it. Visual v imaging , permanent obs v travel to dark sight etc. We all suffer. Find the type of observing you want to do and see what most use succesfully in that field. Regards Andrew PS then take the tablets
  19. Clicking "Blind" uses ASPS in APT plus I think you can tick a box to say use ASPS all the time in APT settings - so not just for GOTO++
  20. Thanks. It all goes back to trying to take a picture of that nice looking full moon through a smart phone. That nice sized moon ends up being a tiny dot in a smart phone camera picture. It is slightly better when i try with my 18-55mm dslr lens on a canon 200d set at 55mm but still not the same? It appears very small. Is it a case of take the picture with the 55mm lens then crop to the size i want?
  21. I would suspect "South Wales" would be a wide enough area to not be specific enough?
  22. I suppose, there's no way of telling if any of my EPs have green on them!
  23. I'm just throwing this one out there. At what point do you stop seeking more and more Aperture? I'm at the beginning of my Astro journey (5 months) and as yet only have a measly 5.1 inches Aperture. I'm obsessed with bigger and bigger already! lol But i was wondering, what point (if any?) do you get to where more aperture isn't really necessary? I'm thinking of saving for a 20inch dob, as they just look so desirable! All that light gathering ability! Imagine what Jupiter would look like through that! (compared to my measly 5.1 inch Newtonian! lol) I was thinking buy a 8inch dob next, but then i thought "but i'll only then want a 10inch, then a 12inch...and so on and so forth! so i might as well skip all the middle sizes and go as large as i can afford! lol Basically whats the best aperture that "will do" for many years of satisfying star/planet/DSO gazing...?
  24. Thank you very much, guys! I updated the original post with a better colour calibrated M13, the original one was a bit blue/green-ish.
  25. I have been having a read and from what i can gather the 'large moon' i am seeing is more of an optical illusion and not something that will be photographed at the same apparent size. Is this the correct understading. I suppose i could take two photos, one of the moon through a larger lens (200mm?) and one of the forground through a 55mm lense and then photoshop them together. Or is there a better way?
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