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Actually I do, I swap from hovering over the lens to pressing against the eye cup. I just need to practice

I now I should always keep my periodic table next to me😁 shameful score, I need to buy another anorak…

Good advice above, but I would add that it is very dependent on your set up. I image with a 1600MM pro and a RisingCam IMX571 colour camera and I have no problem with a standard LED panel (tracing panel from Amazon) and very short exposures << 1sec. (Not recommended with a 294 sensor). This is particularly convenient when taking NB and LRGB flats at the same time as I do not need to alter the screen brightness. Similarly, with the RC8 I remove the dew shield for the flats and it is fine. Obviously, this may not be the case with an SCT due the effect of the corrector plate.

Nice brass Gregorian on Sunday's broadcast about 29 minutes in ... https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/m001bf3j/antiques-roadshow-series-44-ham-house-3

This eyepiece is popular. It's the best thing since sliced bread But let's be honest, you can't see much with sliced bread...

I want to know who the 1% is so I can eliminate them

Also a sympton of "bad weather Syndrome" as talking about equipment fills the void of actually being able to use it . IMO its a good EP for the money ... just about sums it up

I note your issue with the Morpheus 9, could I safely presume that you do not wear glasses? I use and adore the 12.5 Morpheus, nut wear glasses, the eye cup is used fully down and no spacer for glasses use. But if no glasses it needs the spacer and the eyecup to stop the eye being beyond the focus spot produced. (I probably have the terminology wrong above, others may correct me on this) but this is the difference between being a pain to use and being a dream in use.

1. Is it a Canon DSLR, you didn't say ? Shoot Canon video this way: https://www.astropix.com/html/equipment/canon_one_to_one_pixel_resolution.html 2. It doesn't matter much that planets appear as "dots" in DSLR images. If you crop the eg 5000 x 3000 pixel images to a typical planetary camera image size of 1280 x 1024. Hey, the planet looks the same size as if you'd shot with a planetary camera ! Also it's much easier to place that tiny dot on a DSLR sensor than in a tiny sensor Planetary camera . 3. 420mm focal length is pretty short for Planetary, even with Barlowing. Many are using a 2000mm FL SCT and Barlowing ! Michael

Clear images but just a bit too bright IMHO. I'm not quite clear why you are transferring images from the micro sd card to the 64gb usb. Why don't you just send the images directly to the usb dongle in the first place? Apologies if I've got the wrong end of the stick.

Thank you Wes

Thank you Dave, your WL on astrobin are great!

At that price I'd be tempted to go for the triplet 130. Fpl53 too https://www.teleskop-express.de/en/telescopes-4/apochromatic-refractor-55/all-apos-und-eds-223/ts-optics-photoline-130-mm-f-7-edt-triplet-apo-refractor-6679

For exposure with a 533MC Pro, aim for 3000 ADU average at 100 gain which you can find in the histogram data. This will ensure you are not clipping, and not overexposing.

Some relevant stuff here.

Just Wow, you are the nerdiest nerd, live long and prosper, you are and always will be a 🤓 lol.

Thank you, is that also known as the Orion LHD? I was hoping for a 1.25" to make use of filters I already have

@Dragon_Sky Awesome images mate! Regards, Wes

I have the APM Hi-FW 12.5mm and really enjoy using it. It's better in every respect than my Nagler T4 12mm (eye relief, lack of SAEP, etc.). Personally, I have never noticed EOFB in the APM. It's really bad in the 12mm NT4 by way of comparison. You might also check into the Founder Optics Marvel / StellaLyra LER UWA 14mm 80 degree. It is 2" only, but it gets great reviews.

Among affordable eyepiece pairs with near max true field of view for affordable binoviewers, I've used the 23mm Aspherics with my Arcturus binoviewer (made by Norin Optech), but much prefer the Svbony 20mm 68 degree UWAs for their much better clarity, contrast, and sharpness. They're best at f/12 and slower. I use the optical nosepiece of a vintage Meade 140 2x Barlow to reach focus. I just screw it into the insertion barrel of the BV.

below is the best i can do with graxpert, siril and astrosharp. my main issue is i can play with curves and bring out more detail in the galaxy, but i get a lot more red background noise. im guessing this gets better with more exposure time? apart from that, im pretty happy with this i feel like i could solve that a bit by doing a clone on one part of the starless starnet++ output to another and cover up the red noise?

Agree totally, my recent M51 here was three hours combined for LRGB, and an hour of Ha, and that was over two nights. Only my second image this year, I feel that every image is a salvage job

The bias can be re-used as well. I must confess I am a bit lazy and rarely clean my optics but then the filterwheel and camera are kept together and sealed even when not on the rig. I do take flats every time though................ Except for - I have a camera and filterwheel attached to a Samyang lens which I don't separate, and I have re-used flats upto 18 months later and they have been fine. But you are correct in saying nothing should be moved. My separate Camera and filter wheel that I do remove from the telescope now and then, I take new flats every time the camera is moved. HTH

Now of course I have to babysit the setup through a few meridian flips as by attempting to fix the goto I might have broken the flips.

Thanks for that, I dug out and installed a button battery and set the time and location. The location was already right, the Air must update this somehow as I never configured this and without a battery the handset would not remember anyway. Time zone was also right but time was out by an hour. DST setting was also wrong.