Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

sgl_imaging_challenge_banner_globular_clusters_winners.thumb.jpg.13b743f39f721323cb5d76f07724c489.jpg

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. It is indeed Matthew. These are the only two I could find, will take some more soon. First is in original configuration, second is after I had put rings on it and was using it on a manual Vixen GP mount. It would be good on a goto actually as often just holding the top of the tube to nudge it creates tube currents which take a few moments to settle.
  3. Maybe something like a Skywatcher StarAdventurer
  4. tooth_dr

    Hi

    Hello Bill. Welcome to SGL. What part are you from? Adam.
  5. Anvil Basher

    Hi

    Hi all, Bill from Ireland just introducing himself
  6. so my best option will be dslr on a motorised eq mount? - removing the scope from the imaging process completely? any reasonably-priced motorised/goto eq mounts available?
  7. Dammit, wish I'd thought not to throw the box away. That's brilliant. As for what all the types of images do. Here goes. 1. Lights - the images, you know the pretty stuff 2. Darks - Exposed for the same time as the lights, but in complete darkness to get an approximation of the noise in the image. Subtract this from the light frame and you end up with a clear image. 3. Flats - Solves the vignetting problem, also will help to solve issued with specks of dust that get into the imaging train. (They appear like dark circles and vary in side depending on where they are) 4. Darks for flats - does the same job as dark frames, only for the flat frames. 5. Bias frames - shortest exposure possible on the camera. These images record the minimum value that can be obtained from each pixel in the camera. Without this each pixel could have a different minimum value, which would be like looking at a lumpy surface. By applying bias frames to all the other frames above, you'll even out the image much better. The Darks, Darks for flats and Bias frames can be produced at any time and kept in a library. You can even do some of the integration work to produce master files, which have the combination work already done - this can save a great deal of time when it comes to your processing.
  8. You can buy a 8' x 4' sheet of Proplex flooring protection (a black twin walled plastic board) from Wickes for less than £4. Cut a rectangle and use stick-on Velcro tabs to turn it into a dew shield. The great thing is that it folds flat, but curves very easily around the OTA https://www.wickes.co.uk/Proplex-Black-Surface-Protection-Sheet---2mm-x-1-2m-x-2-4m/p/118670
  9. nice as per ASI1600MM, - it is probably the cheapest cam with quite a large sensor to give you a nice FOV, but there are alternatives like Altair Astro Hypercam 1600 which has even 4GB DDR3 RAM (not sure if it does any difference, for me even 256MB is enough). Also, there are some "quite cheap" CCD cams with smaller FOV. You probably know this web http://astronomy.tools/calculators/field_of_view/ , but check what you would like to have at the final image before you pull the trigger! P.S. Also, always keep an eye on the backfocus of the camera you choose. For example ASI1600 backfocus is only 6.5mm which allows to use small 31mm Filters without vignetting. The larger the backfocus of the camera the larger vignetting you will get with small filters... And if you will be made to go for a larger filters, - like 36mm, - check their prices first
  10. I've managed to repair most of the damage that was caused. I lost an SSD drive when the hub blew up, luckily it was old and there wasn't anything on it. Everything else survived OK. For plan B, I've switched to one of these https://www.halfords.com/technology/mobile-phone-accessories/multisockets/halfords-4-way-multi-socket I've used them in the past, for various things without a problem. My laptop is powered from one of these. I'd modified one, by removing the 12v plug (and fuse) so bought a replacement as I think I broke it. https://www.coywood.co.uk/hp-pavilion-15-car-charger-for-90w-65w-45w-15572-p.asp And as for the USB hub, I've got a new one from StarTech https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00SCE4E0I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Last night I tested out that everything will plug in and power up, but I've not yet run a full load test on it. That's a job for the weekend. Fingers crossed that everything works going forward.
  11. FIlter for sale , as new condition . As per pic £180 inc postage in UK
  12. Filter for sale , 48mm version , like new condition £115 including Postage .
  13. "Light thimble" It's a lovely looking thing if I recall, glad you are getting some use out of it.
  14. Fantastic piece of work, really fascinating.
  15. I hope it has a positive effect, but sounds like it's a bit of a lottery as to whether things get better or worse! There are LED streetlights scattered around my neighbourhood, the beams seem to be well directed downwards in the main, but some of them are just way too bright, unnecessarily so imo. Interesting point that the Armagh Planetarium Director makes in your link about needing warmer coloured LEDs, can't imagine this would make much difference to light pollution though as it is still 'broadband' light?
  16. Hi Roland, Many thanks for your reply. I have been doing quite a bit of astrophotography, mainly dslr with kit zoom lens mounted on a skywatcher star adventurer mount. Also a dslr mounted on a 127 Mak for planetary stuff. This means I am happy with polar alignment and also with dslr camera settings for captures. I feel like I am ready for the next step. I had decided to look at the ZWO ASI1600MM so the fact that you mention this camera gives me some confidence with my decision making ! I will have to read about collimation of the secondary mirror. Hopefully it is not too painful ! Here is a small selection of some of my little victories but I cant wait for the next step ! best wishes, Andy
  17. As you say, how about some tin foil (heavy duty) wrapped around the outside ....
  18. Thanks Vlaiv. I actually have a Mak 180 kicking around not doing much at the moment, I may try to get it into use for imaging, though will have to look for a suitable OAG.
  19. Today
  20. I had a similar response to you when the LED streetlights were introduced here a few years ago. Since then, I have watched deep-sky objects slowly fade and disappear. From my skies being generally poor, they are now totally unusable. I can no longer observe the galaxies and so on that I want to. The sky, instead of being a muddy orange colour, is now bright white. The LED lights have totally ruined my already horrible skies. Sorry (really sorry) to be the bearer of bad news.
  21. Btw, a fellow amateur astronomer from my country has Mak180 and has done quite a bit of imaging with it. Here is some of his work: You can see other images at: https://www.flickr.com/photos/132897674@N03/page1 although he now mainly uses MN190 for imaging
  22. Yes, I was thinking of affordability, the Atik 383l is a lot cheaper than the Atik 16200, which is the cheapest 16200 based cameras.
  23. Selling my trusty Fullerscope 8.75" F7.5 newt on a Mk3 mount (to fund the purchase of a goto mount that I've bought). This is an excellent visual scope, especially for planets, lunar and doubles but also serves up wonderful contrasty deep sky views. Has a Grade B mirror which was re-coated with OO Hilux coatings in the last couple of years by a previous owner. The scope has an original fullerscope finder (not the celestron RACI shown) , is fitted with a GSO type 2" crayford focuser (I will be keeping the motor focuser though) and has a home brew cooling fan fitted to the rear. I'd be looking for £400 ONO for both scope and mount. Collection from Bristol only. Please enquire for more pics etc... Attached lunar photos were taken using a galaxy s8 through the EP. The actual views were even sharper!
  24. All those smaller sensors will work, and you can bin them. Only drawback will be: 1. Smaller FOV 2. Smaller final image size if you maintain sampling rate above 1"/px (and one should as not to over sample). ASI1600 for example, can be binned 4x4 for 1.16"/px with 1164px x 880px and FOV of 22.2' x 16.8'
  25. This news article has really made my day. I mostly observe from my back yard in Belfast. Hopefully this is going to make a real difference. Anyone else have any experience of what to expect. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-northern-ireland-48038706
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.