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  2. Very nice! ...and yes, the translate works well. Is that angled pier for a Mesu ?? Tony
  3. Milos, Very interesting indeed. The Translate works fairly well and is understood. You will have a fine observatory once completed. I look forward to the next parts as you build.
  4. Vielen dank Stefan, Kein probleme ich kann eine wenig Deutsch sprechen.
  5. lots good info here for the poster to think about
  6. Hi everyone, I would like to present to you our observatory that we have been building for quite some time now. Hopefully, the end of the construction will be reached by the end of the year. We are buidling it at our local dark location where we usually do our astrophotography works and obsevations. Who are we? Well, I am a member of the amateur astronomy society Aristarchus (Aristarh in Serbian). We are based in Central Serbia. We have an article with the details of the contstruction, unfortunatelly, it is available only in Serbian. Luckily, you can get a glimpse of it if you use Google Translate: https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=sr&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2Faristarh.rs%2Fdrustvo%2Fopservatorije%2Faristarh%2F I would be happy to answer any questions you might have and I will share our further progress here. Clear skies, Miloš
  7. How do you define three park positions on the MESU? Great mount OP!
  8. Their description mentions the following though. ”Thanks to the catadioptic system (integrated barlow lens) the length of the tube is despite to its tall focal length kept short,”
  9. That Pollux does not look like Bird-Jones. It looks more like F/5 newtonian with barlow lens. Bird Jones design should be more compact. It might be that image on Bresser website is not true item, but compare that image: To this telescope sold on TS website: Ratio of diameter to physical OTA length don't match between the two, and one on Bresser website looks like regular F/5.
  10. Yes, that's better, IMO. You could keep one of you previous lights as reference so that next time you can point the camera with the same orientation and add more integration time. Then, if you use your UHC to cut through light pollution, the new image with more contrast could become your luminance layer, and the previous one (with unfiltered colour) be superimposed as RGB after coregistration. In this way you could benefit from higher contrast and SNR, AND keep natural looking colours.
  11. A great mount at a great price and don't be put off by the reasons the vendor has put for wanting something different.. It'll work perfectly as others will attest to. Dave
  12. Bresser does a version on an EQ3. https://www.bresser.de/en/Astronomy/Telescopes/BRESSER-Pollux-150-1400-EQ3-Telescope.html
  13. I use a laser sight to get the scope on target because I can't twist my head around very well anymore. Just be sure to check the skies before lighting it up and be aware of local laws and regulations (Australia in particular).
  14. ohh sorry I thought was a 5" reflector didn't know it was a 6" as I was on my phone on my first reply so it was hard to open link, so yes your 6" scope will need a eq3 the eq2 is too light. so if you ever upgrade then it should be to the 8"f/5 reflector on eq5 but its abit more heavier and bulky. But since u already have it use for now learn the sky, learn the consteallations and where objects are. That will get you started when you are ready for something bigger and better. joejaguar
  15. ADM Vixen Dovetail Plate Adapters One pair of these adapters in excellent condition. £39.00 Posted to UK The Vixen Dovetail Plate Adapter (VDPA) allows you to attach accessories to a Vixen (V series) dovetail bar. The Vixen dovetail is approximately 1.75" wide with a 12 degree angle. The VDPA features a large clamping surface as opposed to single screw pressing on the dovetail. A countersink for a 1/4x20 socket head screw is drilled at the center. Spring loaded and guide pins for a smooth, easy opening solid locking system. Black Anodized and Stainless Steel for maximum durability and good looks. Payment by PayPal (buyer pays fees) or Bank Transfer John
  16. Today
  17. OK guys will leave it at that for now just go to wait for the moon to raise its head now.Deep sky objects going to leave for some time happy to get photos of ~Moon-saturn-jupiter etc got to find out about srtacking next i think,appreciate the help feel like i an getting some where now
  18. Thats a lovely image, super colour. I have just got a UHC lens to see it i can cut down on LP a bit. I'm in whats classed a bortle 4 but there are sodium lights just outside my perimeter which throw things off a bit. In the mean time, I went back to raw data and tried to get a bit more out of that image and got a bit more colour at the cost of some rather dodgy looking stars.
  19. If what this needs is an ftdi then why didn’t isn’t it in the box? That dog don’t hunt, I believe you’d agree. thanks for tryin, dan
  20. on a EQ mount but no motor as of yet go t to save the pennies for that being a 75 year old pensioner have to be carefull
  21. lol i am not sure who i am talking to now.ok state of play is i took camera out of live view aligned scope view finder to scope i hope pasistiond scope to some tv antennas about 250 yards away placed camera on viewfind vie canon eos rig and t piece ,using scope focus ring i got the antennas into image took a photo and hey presto antennas in photo
  22. Is your scope on a motorised equatorial mount, @djs44?
  23. Class Pleiades.. Class scope...looks like a winner
  24. You say, Photo A is a MASTER FLAT Ha (Bin 1x1) created with 30 Darks, 50 FLats (3.7sec adu 22000), 50 Dark Flats, 100 Bias Photo B is a MASTER FLAT Oiii (Bin 2x2) created with 30 Darks, 50 FLats (5sec adu 46000), 50 Dark FLats, 100 Bias but if I'm reading your post correctly this is not at all the right way to make flats. 1) There is no need for '30 darks.' These darks are there to calibrate your images, not your flats. 2) You can calibrate CCD flats by either subtracting bias or by subtracting proper dark flats but certainly not both, because they are almost identical and will double-subtract if you do this. I never make my flats in the same pre-processing pass as used to stack and calibrate my images. I want to have a look at any master flat I use before applying it. So I load up all my individual flats as if they were images and load up a master bias to use as a dark flat. I then average-combine my flats and look at the result. If you want to go by the book you can make dedicated darks for flats (AKA Flat darks) but with CCD cameras I really wouldn't bother. A master bias will give the same result as a master dark flat. Olly
  25. Brill. Sounds like you're in business. The tv antenna was in focus was it? I suggest you make a mental note of how extended the barrel of the focuser is. You'll find when you look at the moon or stars that the focuser will be slightly further in. You might need to adjust the finder scope so that it is centred on the same object as the camera. I nearly always have to do that. It's convenient if they are centred on the same thing. Looks like you're ready to try out your scope in action photographing the moon or other bright objects. You'll want to stay in manual and adjust the shutter speed. With the moon you'll find quite short exposures work well (i.e. 1/30, 1/60, 1/100 of a second etc) with ISOs in the 100 to 400 range. Deep sky objects, galaxies etc, need much longer exposures. But we'll come to that in due course.
  26. lol Yes it was you i was talking to.I am useless at this is it Happy Cat?
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