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"GinaRep Concorde" 3D Printer


Gina

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This 3D printer makes a bit of a departure from my others in that it is designed to give the best accuracy I can achieve rather than concentrating on speed or size, though I did want to print at least as big as my Titan printer (290mm x 290mm x 250mm).  Like Titan it uses a box as the main frame but unlike Titan and my other printers does NOT use "pink string and ceiling wax".  It uses tried and tested 3D printer designs rather than my usual "way out" ideas.  I took advice from a friend who has spent a lot of time on developing high accuracy 3D printers.

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1 hour ago, upahill said:

Quality looks great, must be quite quick with a 0.8 too. How long did that part take?

Not sure now - something like an hour and a half I think.  I'll make a note for the next print.  This is PETG and I'm printing at 50mm/s.

Edited by Gina
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I have redesigned that part to be less bulky and it's currently printing.  I'll post a photo tomorrow.  I'm just waiting for the print to finish before going to bed - I'm not trusting this printer to continue unattended as yet.

EDIT - Printing finished - 52m.  Now cooling...

Edited by Gina
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The umbilical support in use.  As the X carriage moves around the area the bar turns to follow the umbilical.  A slight modification is needed - the horizontal rod isn't quite long enough and needs something on the end to stop the umbilical falling off.

2048984034_UmbilicalSupportBracket03.JPG.052cd262cb8d8f2da6012b1554f59658.JPG

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Put an endstop on the rod but the problem then was that the rod moved along the umbilical towards the X carriage and the back part still dropped down so it needed a loop at the middle of the umbilical to keep the rod support in the middle.  Just used a piece of solid wire to tie the spiral wrap to the rod loosely so that it could move back and forth along the rod.  Seems alright now.

1239474148_UmbilicalSupportBracket04.JPG.f31eeefaa9e892a4f25d3535e8082db4.JPG

Edited by Gina
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Looking good. Is there any tilt front/back in the bed at all or has spacing the z-carriage wheels solved that issue?

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Feels solid as a rock.  Pushing hard on the front or back I can move it maybe a tenth or two of a millimetre.

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Been thinking about feet/wheels.  I have a place for it in my living room so it shouldn't need moving far and since the floor is carpeted I don't think wheels would be suitable.  I guess it wants large flat feet with a smooth surface at the bottom.  If I can't slide it, I do have a sack barrow!

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8 minutes ago, Gina said:

Too small I think.  Needs 70mm height.

They would need a printed 'cup' thingy to hold them and stop the whole printer just rolling. Could be printed to give the right height.

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I see what you mean.  I think that if the feet were fairly large and flat, the carpet will absorb vibrations.  In any case the floor is concrete below the carpet and underlay.

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I'm afraid that wouldn't take the weight of this printer.  The noise is due to the motors being mounted on large areas of plywood which acts as a sounding board.  What it wants is some form of motor mounting that stops the vibration reaching the wood but is stiff enough to hold the motor accurate to a tenth of a mm or so.  In fact I found that the LH motor made less noise if I held it tight to the plywood.  So that's a little side project - reduce the noise!

I think the feet will have to be wood - I have lots of it out in the big shed.  I tried the printed approach but even hollow feet would take 3 hours each to print and take 80m of filament each.

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I've moved the printer to it's place between the table and my half built longcase (Grandfather) clock.  It's sitting on 4 empty 1Kg filament spools of which I have oodles!  I can sort out proper feet later.

Edited by Gina
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Latest design for part cooler parts, printed in PETG the top part clips onto the bottom and the bottom will be screwed to the X carriage back plate.

1758153253_Screenshotfrom2019-01-2316-51-05.png.5f86ce33690f4d2606292af35d3f65be.png475138331_Screenshotfrom2019-01-2315-21-01.png.919afa1b6fb2331b1a1658829f2dd271.png

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Part cooling fan and air duct installed, connected up and tested - working fine.  A good flow of air out of the circular slot when fan on full.

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Here is a screenshot of the firmware check of the bed level which shows that the orthogonality is near perfect with the Z guiding perfect.  The variation that remains is a slight bending of the glass plate as it is only clamped at two corners ATM - I have more clamps to print.  I am amazed to have managed such a very small variation in height without any bed levelling, across a 400mm square.  Less than a tenth mm RMS error.  And this will be corrected by the firmware in printing.

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Edited by Gina
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Put the other two bed clamps on and strangely the bed level is worse though still well able to be compensated for in firmware.

1092167410_Screenshotfrom2019-01-2421-34-30.png.5e1560969cf617c5b1ca47db4a94da57.png

Edited by Gina
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Been trying to set up Slic3r for this printer as well as the Duet config.g.  Here's a test print of Benchy.  Looks tiny on this printer ?.  This was printed with a 0.8mm nozzle.

1122994351_BenchyTestPrint08.JPG.9c250600f4939e60e6a85adaa59ec06a.JPG1959274876_BenchyTestPrint05.JPG.d73bf9a170041888b2accaa9c9816567.JPG1292098450_BenchyTestPrint06.JPG.8cc49cee5f5ee83fdca87119c2edbfd5.JPG1622225694_BenchyTestPrint07.JPG.34d04f8fb524474e5325303ea0705973.JPG

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I think you want to check belt tensions and retraction settings, as there appears to be some layer shift, but not every layer, so could be something going on with Z axis movements, but for me, stringing usually means I have to tune extrusion\retraction....

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